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 #2316596


Reptidaddy
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 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Hello all,

This is my first post on Repticzone, so go easy please. :) I got my first reptile about 4 days ago and I’m pleased to say he or she is a CWD. My dragon’s name is Elliot. I have done a ton of research and put together, in my opinion, a decent enclosure prior to getting Elliot. I am a little worried that Elliot may not be eating enough, although I understand that my CWD is adjusting to his new enclosure. Currently, I have crickets and mealworms that I offer to Elliot dusted with calcium. The pet store employee that assisted me said he loved mealworms, but he is only eating crickets. He is only eating the crickets when I feed them to him with tweezers. I guess my question is: should I just let the crickets roam free and pray that he jumps down from his vines and branches to get them? Also, should I get a "mealworm dish" and try to train him to eat from it? Do water dragons prefer eating from a ledge? Really I would just like to hear from others about how they successfully feed their water dragons.

Some background info: I have a ~100 gal tank with a custom made lid. There is a 6 gal water section with a reptimed nano 10 canister filter running 24/7. I added three 6-foot vines with a few fake branches, a large hide, and some driftwood purchased at the pet store. I run an 18" UVB strip during the day, nighttime bulb at night, and ceramic heat emitter 24/7 using a temperature regulator. The terrestrial section is lined with repticarpet. I have 2 digital thermometers (one on warm side one on cool side) and one digital thermometer/hygrometer combo. My temps are around 80-85 during the day, and 75-80 at night. I struggle maintaining humidity, but with 3-4 listings a day, it stays between 60% and 85%. My lights are on a 12- hour Cycle using timers. I plan to eventually upgrade to a sterile soil/cypress mulch substrate when I get this feeding situation worked out. I also hope to get a misting system within the next month or two.

Elliot is about 10 inches long tip to tail. If anyone has advice about my set-up, please let me know, but be polite. Thanks.



01/16/16  08:53pm

 #2316597


VenomSnake
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  Message To: Reptidaddy   In reference to Message Id: 2316596


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

You should get a day time bulb, It looks like you are outputting more heat at night than during the day as UVB bulbs don’t tend to put out much heat.

Don’t let your crickets roam they’ll bite your Lizard and stress them out.
How much are they eating exactly? Are you feeding daily? Are you using Calcium with D3 or without? Do you have Vitamin supplements?

There’s a post in the starter thread about dusting it’s what I use and seems to have worked well with my guy.

Example

Monday Calcium no D3
Tuesday Calcium D3
Wednesday Calcium no D3
Thursday Calcium D3
Friday Calcium no D3
Saturday Vitamins with D3
Sunday no dusting



01/17/16  03:04am

 #2316600


Reptidaddy
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  Message To: VenomSnake   In reference to Message Id: 2316597


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

I am running one of those red daytime bulbs for heat. I just forgot to add that to my description. I feed everyday. I just have calcium with D3, but my friend uses calcium without D3 for his cham and crestie and he recommended mixing it up like that. I do not have a multivitimin, but I’m going to grab some today. He ate like 5 crickets the second day, 2 mealworms and 3 crickets the next day, and maybe 3 crickets yesterday. He is defecating probably every other day. His color is pretty dark, so I’m a little concerned about that. I saw some other vivs where people put Tupperware containers for feeding so cricks and worms can’t get out, so I’m also going to try that. Thanks, I’ll take all the advice I can get.



01/17/16  11:30am

 #2316601


Afrodite2400
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  Message To: Reptidaddy   In reference to Message Id: 2316600


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Our boy will run and grab up a worm wherever we put it in the cage but doesn’t really want his crickets once he has had some worms. So, he will only eat the crickets when fed with tweezers and only when he is absolutely sure he cant have worms instead. Lol. Worms are supposed to be a treat and given once or twice a week with crickets being the main staple while they are young from what I have learned.



01/17/16  01:24pm

 #2316618


Reptidaddy
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  Message To: Afrodite2400   In reference to Message Id: 2316601


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Update: I now have calcium with D3, calcium without D3, and a multivitamin. His appetite has increased and he’s eating 4-5 medium sized crickets a day. His color is looking better and he appears to get less skiddish each day. I plan to take a stool sample to the vet by the end of the week. Thanks for the tips.



01/19/16  05:23pm

 #2316741


Milldabeast519
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  Message To: Reptidaddy   In reference to Message Id: 2316596


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

i dont understand how your tank drops in temp at night. you have the ceramic going 24/7 and you ADD a night light at night. your house drops that much in temp??? i think you need to get a mercury vapor bulb so your getting uvB and uvA not sure what type of tube u got but your need to make sure your getting both uv ray types. i would suggest forget about mealworms altogether. they dont benefit your dragon at all. there basically like taking him to dairy queen for a treat. but if hes never been to dq he dont know what hes missing! once they get hooked you likely have to starve him to get him off



01/27/16  12:07pm

 #2316953


Manderson
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  Message To: Milldabeast519   In reference to Message Id: 2316741


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

I’m deleted by my old email, so I made a second account. Elliot is doing MUCH better after 3 weeks of acclimatization. He is eating 7-8 medium sized crickets a day and I’ve using the supplementation schedule VenomSnake suggested above. I was able to get him to eat a few mealworms last week, but many things I have read agree with Milldabeast about mealworms not being a good staple anyway (shows what the dude at the pet store knows...). I will definitely look into the mercury vapor bulb. The UVB bulb I have is a T8 UVB fluorescent.

I also started handling him last week and letting him run around a lizard-safe room. At first he doesn’t want to leave his terrarium, but after 30 minutes of freedom, he doesn’t want to go back in ha! He recently shed and his coloration is amazing. I will try to post some pictures of the little guy and his terrarium tonight or tomorrow. As always, thanks for the tips.



02/07/16  06:18pm

 #2316992


Cphill58
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  Message To: Manderson   In reference to Message Id: 2316953


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Allow me to bring up a dear subject of mine... Mega Ray (reptile uv) I use these MVB lamps exclusively and I have tested them with a 200.00 UVB meter with fantastic results. They are the best MVB in the USA and also distributed in the UK and other countries. The owner and manufacture of the lamps also has a FAcebook page called REPTILE UV They are based out of Florida.

Currently with a discount code they are 52.00 incl shipping. They are guaranteed for 12 months not to burn out. Or you get a free replacement via the mail. If you order directly from the website save your e mails and Invoice that you get in the box.
Currently they have available the following wattage ...each lamp is rated by the safe distance to the reptile. They provide UVB/UVA/HEAT Often times depending on the species you need additional heat lamp/s to make sure temps are optimal. So always measure.

70 watt minimum safe distance 6"
100 watt msd 12"
160 watt msd 18"
275 watt msd 36"

here is a link to the main page

MEGA RAY

Here is a link to the product page click a lamp to read the details
products

The coupon code is
2016TkU

enter it at checkout in the PROMO BOX

If you’d like to see his FB page feel free to visit and LIKE to be in the family of the best lamp owners. Ask questions etc.
https://www.facebook.com/ReptileUV/timeline

you can always PM me or send a FR on facebook
https://www.facebook.com/Cphill58



02/11/16  11:41pm

 #2317013


Saphiras mom
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  Message To: Cphill58   In reference to Message Id: 2316992


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Hi, and Congratulations on your new dragon! CWDs are my absolute favorite!

With regards to feeding, I would suggest considering some options other than crickets and mealworms. I am not a mealworm fan at all, but I do mix in crickets for my dragons (I have a CWD, beardie, and Australian frilled currently). For babies, I highly recommend the black fly larvae (marketed under various names, Phoenix worms, reptiworms, and calciworms). Some stores do carry them, but I order mine online (my person preferred sources for all my feeder insects are Backwater reptiles and Mulberry farms). Also great are dubia roaches (I recommend ordering the smallest initially for your guy). Others I mix in are hornworms (they grow very fast and you will need the little ones, so don’t order too many) and silk worms (these can be difficult to get and difficult to keep alive, so most people don’t use them, but these are a favorite for most of my dragons and very nutritious).

Hope this helps!
Carol



02/13/16  08:37am

 #2317313


Milldabeast519
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  Message To: VenomSnake   In reference to Message Id: 2316597


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

read the instruction on the bottle. not forums recommendations. the bottle says soomany table spoons per amount of food. so your dust every meal. if you dust according to instruction your not going to have issues . most stuff used for water dragons is calcium with d3.



03/02/16  04:29pm

 #2317315


Milldabeast519
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  Message To: Reptidaddy   In reference to Message Id: 2316600


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

switch to sprays... more effective easier intake. calcium spray and vitamin spray. and axe mealworms off the list. there not beneficial .you will find way better feeders.



03/02/16  04:31pm

 #2317316


Bakerzx
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  Message To: Milldabeast519   In reference to Message Id: 2317315


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Dubias, Dubias, Dubias. Also, when they are large enough, pinkies. I also vitamin dust with the zoomed vitamin dust every feeding. My reasoning is; Blaze and Ella were abandoned on an order, under incredible stress, housed with iguanas, Blaze lost his tail from stress, and Ella just recently gained her appetite after 4 months. Needless to say we need all the help we can get.



03/02/16  04:35pm

 #2317333


Milldabeast519
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  Message To: Bakerzx   In reference to Message Id: 2317316


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

you gotta stop posting your cwd lost his tale from stress. do your mean the stress of a bite? because they dont drop there tales from stress.dubias are pretty nice. theirs better species of roach that are softer. ive been doing dubias for a decade.pinkies really are nothing special. only if they need to gain weight. there just fat. if you can get rat fuzzies down your making progress they got some nutrition . but you better off with crickets/roaches and worm., large variety of food is best. horned worms wax butters silk ect.



03/05/16  02:21pm

 #2317341


Bakerzx
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  Message To: Milldabeast519   In reference to Message Id: 2317333


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

I post that Blaze lost his tail due to stress because before I adopted him he was housed with an iguana. The pet store explained to me that he lost his tail due to stress being housed with the hatchling iguana. Who knows the real story. The good news his tail is growing back slowly and surely.
I’m still new to keeping water dragons, so I’m sure I will make some "newbie" mistakes here and there. I don’t even have a year under my belt yet. But, I am happy to say both my water dragons are fat and healthy. That is the best I can ask for at this point.



03/06/16  01:10pm

 #2317372


Milldabeast519
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  Message To: Bakerzx   In reference to Message Id: 2317341


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

another thing ... you adopted him? what do your mean by that? you bought a pet. you didnt adopt him. all these ppl claiming adoptions /rescuing ect ect.....you bought a pet. period. unless your a qualified reptile herpetologist then we are ppl buying pets with good intentions. i just want to clarify that its impossible for your dragon to drop his tail . his tail would have been forced off. most likely bitten by the iguana. the look i would give them if they told me the story that a dragon lost his tail from stress would be quiet funny.... its just a pet store. with ppl hired for minimum wage . your dragons tail is likely growing but he will never rejuvenate the part that was lost. i hate to bash everything you said... but fat and healthy are 2 words that dont get used together! water dragons are not healthy if there fat. so make sure you keep him fed but lean at the same time. these animals are arboreal. so you really dont want an overweight lizard! very hard to climb when ur fat. and they easily injure them selves. they need to stay lean like an athlete



03/09/16  05:54am

 #2317373


Bakerzx
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  Message To: Milldabeast519   In reference to Message Id: 2317372


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Man... Who pissed in your Cheerios?



03/09/16  06:18am

 #2317380


Saphiras mom
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  Message To: Milldabeast519   In reference to Message Id: 2317372


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

Sorry, I misspoke. CWD, not beardie!



03/09/16  09:57am

 #2317389


Milldabeast519
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  Message To: Bakerzx   In reference to Message Id: 2317373


 Water dragon feeding tips needed

if reality taste like cheerios and piss im handing out bowl fulls! LOL



03/10/16  12:14pm


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