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Reptile Enrichment
Enriching Your Lizards Life By Chris M Jones There are currently nearly 4’800 lizard species around the world, all of which have slightly different habits and will require specialized care if kept in captivity. It would be impossible to create an information sheet that could apply to all species of lizard. However, this article should give you a good idea how to create the best possible environment for your lizard, and how to keep its mind stimulated for a long, healthy and happy life. Lizards with no mental stimulation can eventually succumb to anorexia, hyperactivity, obsessive disorders and persistent attempts to escape from the enclosure. The first and foremost thing that you should do as a keeper is to research the particular species of lizard you wish to keep. Find out what country the lizard would naturally come from, what habitat it prefers to live in and the temperatures and humidity their habitat would be exposed to at different times of the year. Find out how the lizard lives; is it nocturnal or diurnal, insectivorous, carnivorous, herbivorous or omnivorous? Unlike most species of snakes, a large proportion of lizards are social animals that may live in pairs, groups or even large colonies in the wild. Usually one male will dominate this group and control a large number of females. Is it a solitary species or does it live in families or groups? Is the species a fairly inactive species, or does it regularly travel some distance in order to drink, hunt etc…? Is your lizard terrestrial or arboreal (tree dwelling) or perhaps even aquatic or semi-aquatic? Once you have determined what categories your lizard will fall in to, you can learn from the following points and enhance on the quality of life your lizard has. Most lizards will make good use of a spacious terrarium, and I would therefore recommend that you provide the largest amount of space possible. It has been documented that much like fish; reptiles will grow slower, and perhaps not as large as it could when kept in a small, confined enclosure. As a general rule, most lizards should be kept in a terrarium which is a minimum of double the total length of itself. This however is just a general rule, keeping a 15cm Green Anole Lizard for instance in a 30cm enclosure would not justify the high activity levels this lizard possesses. However, keeping a 40cm Blue Tongued Skink in an 80cm enclosure would be a little more reasonable. Lizards are generally not intimated by space like many snakes are, so providing a large sized enclosure will only benefit the lizard. To ensure there is no intimidation, provide several hide areas and a variety of décor across the terrarium. Terrarium furnishings and substrate play an important part of any lizard’s enclosure. Not only does it serve as more interest to the lizard, but adding different substrates and varying décor items will also make the terrarium more appealing to you. Give the lizard varying depths and types of substrate. This can be done to almost any lizard enclosure, no matter whether they are a desert of rainforest dwelling species. You can create different levels by forming natural barriers in the terrarium with rocks, wood or cork bark. Depending on where your lizard originates from, you could offer varying types of substrate to replicate their natural habitat. A desert species may benefit from a mix of dry soil, sand and small pebbles. Lizards that naturally occur in rainforests may do well on a substrate with a mix of soil, leaves and bark chips. Depending on the species of lizard, live plants or small bushes could be planted in the enclosure. This will not only look pretty, but will add new fragrances into the enclosure potentially causing the lizard to explore more. Be careful which plants you decide to use, many can be toxic if ingested so it is vital that only safe, edible plants are put into the terrarium. Plants should also be pesticide free, so be sure to spray it down with water. Re-arranging the cage furniture from time to time will keep the lizard stimulated and active. It is important to realise not only what temperatures your lizard should be exposed to, but also in what manner they are offered. In the wild, heat is gained by use of the sun, but this is not to say that every lizard must have a basking area with heat or light from above. You should first find out where your lizard comes from and the daily habits which it would naturally go through. Nearly all diurnal snakes will bask in the sun; it is therefore only natural to offer a spot bulb type of heat. This will mimic the sun and should allow the lizard to bask directly underneath the area which the bulb is pointing. The sun also moves throughout the day, meaning that many a time, the lizard will also have to move. Often, diurnal species do not bask during the middle of the day; instead they will bask in the early morning and late afternoon. By placing 2 spot bulbs in different areas of the terrarium wired into a timer, you can mimic the effect of the sun and give the lizard the chance to search out a new, better basking site. If you have a large budget and terrarium to play with, you can offer further basking sites for different times of the day. You could even set up the lamps with timers on dimming thermostats so that the temperature output could lessen or greaten depending on the time of day. Diurnal species will also require UVA and UVB rays normally gained through the sun. This can be given in the form of a spot / UV bulb in one, or can be offered separately in the form of a UV Strip Light. Many nocturnal or rainforest dwelling species will not bask in the sun, but should be exposed to a higher day time temperature. Although it is recommended that you offer varying temperatures, there should be an overall air temperature. This can be achieved by using a power plate. A power plate is a 75Watt heater that is attached to the ceiling of your terrarium and provides a wider range of heat from above, making it more efficient at raising the actual air temperature than other heaters. Lighting should still be offered for these species, although in the form of a fluorescent tube. At night, a red bulb or moon bulb could be used for background heat and to allow better viewing of the lizard. Nocturnal, terrestrial species that do not live in a rainforest environment will often obtain their heat from the ground surface, usually on flat rocks which have been exposed to the sun during the day and allowed to heat up. This heat is retained for some hours throughout the evening. Hot rocks are available to mimic this behaviour, although it is only suggested that you use these for a few hours at the appropriate time; generally as lights go out until 4 hours later. Water is generally offered in a small water dish which doesn’t even allow the lizard to fully submerse itself. Although this is preferable for many desert dwelling species, other species will regularly travel to streams, ponds or puddles to drink, bathe and swim. Offering water in a larger dish, away from the heat source will often stimulate many species of lizard to bathe and swim more often, allowing for more exercise. Be sure to watch for faeces in the water, as many lizards will commonly excrete during bathing. Allowing water movement through a pump, air bubbles or even a small waterfall will also stimulate the lizard to bathe and drink regularly. For rainforest dwelling species, a drip system and / or misting system will simulate rainfall in the wild. This may be very important for some species such as Chameleons that will predominantly drink from water droplets that gather on leaves or branches. Foods and feeding methods play an important role in stimulating the natural responses of most lizards. In captivity, it is ever popular to attempt feeding your lizard by hand. This may be fun and rewarding for you as a keeper, but if done too often will result in a lazy lizard with little self drive to hunt or forage for its food. Herbivorous lizards will naturally find their food in different areas. They may have to climb to different levels on mountain side to find their preferable choice of flower, or move from tree to tree to find the best leaves. It is therefore only common sense to realise that placing all of the lizards food into a bowl in one area of the terrarium will not stimulate any natural feeding responses and result in a lazy, overweight lizard that may potentially succumb to anorexia or other behavioural problems. Putting a different food item into the bowl from time to time does not class as enrichment, as it does not change the way a lizard feeds. However, placing the items in different areas of the enclosure may change the way the lizard forages for food and therefore does class as enrichment. Clips can be bought which stick to the side of a terrarium and will hold leaves at different heights for the lizard to reach. Placing a live, edible plant in the terrarium will stimulate the lizards scent responses and will make for a much more exciting meal that could last for days. You could even try hanging a branch from the roof of your terrarium so that it sways around as the lizard attempts to feed on it. Some vegetable or fruit matter could even be hidden from your lizard. Placing a peeled banana behind a rock or under some leaves will tempt most herbivorous lizards. Carnivorous and Insectivorous lizards can also benefit from feeding techniques and food items offered. Unlike vegetable matter, live insects will move, and different species of insect may move and act in a different way. This may result in a different hunting technique your lizard has to adapt to. Offering brightly coloured or fast moving insects is something that makes many lizard species extremely excitable. Try catching and feeding the occasional Daddy Long Legs; many lizards will go crazy over these. It is important that your lizard’s staple diet has been ‘gut-loaded’. This means that your lizard’s food item should also be fed itself, after all, there is little point in feeding a malnourished cricket to your hungry lizard. Applying the appropriate calcium and mineral supplements is also important. Research should be carried out as to what supplements and which foods should be fed to the particular species of lizard you own. Many keepers will place live food into a bowl where they cannot escape from, or they may dismember the insects so they cannot move. This certainly makes life easier for the lizard, but certainly not a natural one. A slow release insect feeder is recommended, and will overcome the problem of lots of insects running around at the same time, resulting in hidden, uneaten insects. Many species of lizard; Monitor lizards and large Skinks in particular will eat small mammals and birds. Live mammals and birds should not be fed in captivity and are not necessary. In fact, many of these lizards will primarily feed on carcases of dead animals. Hiding the food underneath leaves or even burying it under the substrate will stimulate most monitor lizards to dig and find the food. You can also try hanging the food from the roof of the terrarium. It is not wise to tie the food with string or other non-digestible material; however, a mouse tail for instance could be trapped in the lid of the terrarium or some kind of clip. With the force of the lizard tugging at the food, it should break free. This will make it a little harder for the lizard to feed, as the food will sway around as it attempts to bite it. Tease feeding is an excellent method to re-create a wild animal’s movements. With a pair of long forceps you can grip the food item and move it around, simulating the movements of the animal in the wild. If the lizard shows interest, move it further away and around the enclosure, enticing the lizard to chase and hunt the food. Handling your lizard on a regular basis is a similar situation to taking your dog for a walk. It is a way of taking the lizard out of its usual environment to provide exercise and an array of unusual smells. Many wild caught lizards, or lizards not used to being handled should have limitations on the amount of time spent handling. The last thing you want to do is stress the lizard by over-handling. Captive bred individuals that are regularly handled will however enjoy human interaction and the chance to move around different surfaces. On a warm day, take your lizard outside in the garden and let it roam around on the grass. The natural UVA and UVB rays the sun produces will also benefit the lizard more than any commercial bulb is able to do. Be very careful not to take your eyes off the lizard though, the last thing you want is for it to quickly burrow into the ground or worse still, grabbed by a passing predatory bird. Being able to handle your lizard will not only allow exercise and scent stimulation, it will also allow for easier maintenance and veterinary care if needed. Although human interaction will stimulate the responses of your lizard, other lizards may also be beneficial. Bearded Dragons for instance will naturally live in groups of one dominant male to several females and perhaps juveniles of both sexes. Many geckos will live in large colonies, often having the same nesting area for a large number of females. Some skinks live in families and their young may not depart the family for many years. Other lizards may sometimes provide the natural stimulation a captive lizard needs, and depending on the species and sex of your lizard, should be considered for the health and wellbeing of your pet. Lizards can make wonderful companions and can live for many years. By providing a fulfilling and happy life for your lizard you will no doubt prolong it and get more enjoyment out of it yourself. This article, together with your own ideas should prevent your lizard from become overweight or inactive, further resulting in behavioural problems. We would love to hear if you try any of our methods, or have your own methods you would like to share with us. Please visit our web site and let us know how you and your lizard are getting on! Exhibit Enrichment Perching in most reptile enclosures is crucial in providing pathways and arboreal access for both semi and fully arboreal species. When supplied in conjunction with heat sources, perching provides an important mechanism for thermoregulation. Perches should be placed near heat sources to allow the animals to bask, with at least as many basking sites as individuals housed. Placing perches at varying distances from the heat source provides a temperature gradation that allows the animals to maintain body temperatures within a range appropriate to the species. It can also encourage locomotive behavior between sites. Providing locations that surpass the thermoptimum temperature can encourage movement in and out of that area, rather than having the animal continuously bask in the same location. Creating vertical (e.g., a rock pile, vine etc.) as well as horizontal sites can offer additional dimensions to the enclosure and stimulate climbing in some species. For example, rattlesnake species that hunt by positioning themselves above potential prey items can sometimes be stimulated to feed more often with the addition of a large, flat rock or pile of rocks on which they can rest. The emerald tree boa can develop gastrointestinal impactions and/or become obese through lack of exercise. Periodically changing the perching in its enclosure may stimulate a healthy increase in movement as the animal explores its “new”, enriched environment. Misting, whether by hand or via an automated system, can also increase activity and assist with the shedding of skin. Water features (shallow or deep pools, water cascades etc.), where appropriate, can help make the enclosure landscape more interesting and raise the humidity level. Additions of plants, moss and soil can also help to maintain humidity and moisture. Natural substrates such as soil, wood chips, moss, etc., can give reptiles the ability to manipulate their environments and engage in natural behaviors such as excavating a burrow or creating a nest site. Moisture, texture and temperature gradients may all play a role in the selection of a nest site. It is also important to provide the proper substrate and conditions for potentially gravid females. This can help to decrease the risk of them not depositing their eggs and becoming eggbound. Natural substrate such as bark often contains live insects, which may be discovered at a later time by a foraging animal. Cover, an important feature for many reptilians, can be provided in ways that allow the animals to still be visible to the public. Plants can be positioned so that the leaves are both above and below the perching. Caves that are forward facing can be created using rocks and logs. These shelters help the animals feel protected while still being visible to caretakers and visitors. Providing them with more than one sheltered location across either temperature (e.g., one near a heat source and one in a cool place) or moisture gradients (e.g., one that uses moist moss, another, dry leaf litter) permits the animal to make choices while still having shelter. The addition of substrates to a cave enables the animals to modify the cave’s micro-environment by pushing substrate out or mounding it up as desired. These shelters also allow them to exist where there is less light, a welcome feature for forest floor species that may be more adapted to lower light conditions than exhibits typically provide. For some snakes the addition of a “hide box” to the enclosure promotes eating. The minimum recommended size and relative dimensions of the enclosure will vary with the individual reptile species according to its preferred temperature range and habitat requirements. Mixed species exhibits ideally would be large enough to meet the standards of each species within it. In general, larger enclosures will be easier to design with more enriching features and be better able to provide temperature, moisture and light gradients. The larger space can also reduce bacteria build up, which can decrease the frequency with which the substrate needs to be changed. Furthermore, in some species, placing the animals in a larger enclosure space has caused long-term increases in activity level and behavioral repertoire. Dietary Enrichment Many enrichment options that have been successful with birds may also work with reptiles. Naturally rotten logs with insects inside or fake logs with time-released (on a random schedule) insects can elicit foraging behaviors. For some species such as chameleons, a daily variety of live insect prey items can be essential to healthy feeding on a regular basis and can therefore be extremely important to their health. For other species, live prey, if infrequently offered or offered as a novel item, can be very stimulating. For example, goldfish for turtles or anacondas, feeder fish for tentacle snakes or crocodiles and wild crickets and other insects from a pesticide free area, for lizards and turtles can promote foraging. Adding earthworms to a box or wood turtle’s substrate can also stimulate foraging behavior. Hand scattering of routine dietary insects can also be enriching if the quantities are unpredictable and fed at irregular intervals. Iguanas will readily feed on a variety of nontoxic browse plants. The branches can be arranged within the enclosure as temporary leafy perching, with the animals feeding on it for days or even weeks (if misted or maintained in water, the browse may stay fresh longer). Rattlesnakes typically release their prey after striking with venom. The prey then wanders off to die, only to be tracked by the snake. The snake then engages in a high rate of tongue flicking and searching movements to locate and follow the prey’s trail. Tongue flicking is a behavior that will sometimes decline in captive snakes over time if novel stimuli are not presented. Live prey can stimulate an increase in this behavior, as can an a blood trail (made by dragging a dead prey item around the enclosure and then hiding it under substrate such as leaves or exhibit furniture). The scent trail of lactating mice may also be appealing to snakes, as tracking them in the wild would lead to a tasty litter of young. Varying the feeding schedule can lead to an increase in predatory behavior and therefore an overall increase in activity. Novel Enrichment/Social Enrichment Chemosensory behavior in snakes can be stimulated with the addition of a shed of another (healthy, parasite free, etc.) snake. This will typically elicit tongue flicking and olfactory investigation. Rotating animals into a conspecific’s enclosure (preferably of an opposite sex) can also stimulate these behaviors in species such as bushmasters. Creating either a group exhibit (many lizards are colonial) or a mixed species exhibit can also lead to a more interesting and socially complex environment, increasing the likelihood of territorial behaviors. In some social situations, such as with crocodilians, the addition of visual barriers can help to alleviate competition and stress at feeding times. Animals in mixed species exhibits such as aquatic turtles, terrestrial lizards, and arboreal snakes may benefit by occupying different strata which would minimize competition for space. In addition, exhibiting species from the same locale together can decrease the likelihood of deleterious pathogen transmission between species. Finally, using behavioral training to introduce animals to shift boxes, side shifts (clear tubes for snakes or an area off exhibit where the animals can be safely examined, can assist with husbandry, health and safe handling of the animals, as well as present them with a challenging and rewarding event. Safety Considerations A major consideration in reptile care and enrichment is that form is not equal to similarity. Two snakes can look superficially alike and yet come from entirely different habitats. It is the species’ natural history that should be considered in the implementation of enrichment. The natural history of the pine snake, for example, suggests that because this animal would have a large home range in the wild, it may require more stimulation, have a higher overall activity level and need a larger cage size than a species of montane rattlesnake occupying a much smaller territory. It is also important to avoid a super-stimulus effect. For example, a gila monster which is native to the desert, if given a bowl of water all the time, may sit in it to the extent that algae begins to form on the animal’s back. Something is triggered that would be appropriate in the wild, but would not necessarily shut off in captivity. Over misting can also be a problem for some species depending on the specific climate they were adapted for. Caution should be taken when supplying new water sources. Drowning in (relatively) deep, smooth-sided pools has been known to occur with reptiles that are not good swimmers or floaters. Baby turtles have drowned under dense moss in aquatic tanks. When new water bowls or pools are added to turtle or tortoise enclosures, it is important that the animals can right themselves from a “turned over” position in the water or they may drown. To test for this the animal should be placed in the water on its back and observed to ensure it can “flip” itself right side up. If the animal cannot do this the water depth should be increased until it can. Enrichment in an enclosure can create new opportunities for escape or injury and therefore should be well planned out in advance. In addition, adequate ventilation must not be compromised by new items in the exhibit. Modifications to an existing habitat can create new hazards, such as drains trapping animals or perching placed too close to cage mesh causing skin abrasions. Observation following exhibit changes is critical to ensuring safe enrichment. The potential for an animal to experience stress as a result of changes to its environment should be considered. These stressors can create subtle problems that can be monitored by observing body conditions, obtaining regular weights etc.. The addition of substrates in a reptilian enclosure can provide opportunities for variety of behavior, including foraging and locomotion. However, with the exception of desert-dwelling reptiles and some aquatic turtles, sand is not recommended as a substrate because of the risk of gastrointestinal impaction if ingested. For the same reason, ground corn cob is also discouraged as a substrate. There is no single substrate that is acceptable across all terrestrial reptile species. Some may be too absorbent and cause a decrease in the humidity level in the exhibit, leading to animal dehydration; others may not absorb well enough and cause too great of a moisture build up. The frequency with which the substrate will need to be changed to maintain hygienic conditions will depend greatly on the type of substrate, the species housed with it and how they are maintained (e.g., how frequently are they misted, number of animals etc.). Gastrointestinal impaction, suffocation and providing a medium for pathogens are all risks associated with the addition of substrate to reptile exhibits. Substrate can be a great asset in an enclosure; when used appropriately, the benefits of its use will, in most cases, far outweigh the risks. Dietary enrichment often incorporates variety into the animals’ diets; however, this can be problematic, especially with snakes. Variety can create finicky eaters, leaving keepers without food options if a snake goes ‘off feed’. Live prey items (even crickets) also pose potential danger if not eaten immediately as they can bite and injure the animal being fed. This risk can be minimized by: 1) monitoring the situation and not leaving live prey in the enclosure for any length of time if the reptile seems uninterested, and 2) offering a live prey item food, for example, providing rodent blocks for mice which are offered as enrichment. Prey items may bite the predator out of their own hunger. Insect prey should be removed from the enclosure regularly as the nutritional value of the prey may diminish over time. When insect prey is collected locally it should be gathered from areas that have not been sprayed with pesticides. It is also important that browse offered is nontoxic and free of pesticides. The same caution employed in providing mammals and birds with browse should be used with reptiles. Keepers should always be careful when working around and handling reptiles as even non-venomous species can have septic bites and anticoagulants in their saliva. Some people develop skin rashes from even garter snake bites as a result of a mild reaction to the snake’s saliva. Reptiles frequently carry salmonella in addition to many other transmissible pathogens that pose a risk to both humans and other reptile species. This should always be a consideration when exchanging sheds, increasing the number of conspecifics in an enclosure or forming a mixed species exhibit. When mixed species exhibits are created, care should be taken to select species that will tolerate one another well without predation, aggression, an unhealthy amount of social stress or undue dietary competition. The implementation of new enrichment involves a number of considerations to ensure the health and well being of the animals involved. Consultations with those experienced in reptile husbandry and researching appropriate sources PRIOR to the implementation of enrichment can help prevent mistakes and greatly improve the lives of the animals. The following are examples of enrichment that may be appropriate for reptiles, as well as an overview of safety issues that should be considered in the implementation of enrichment. Exhibit Enrichment * Perching: to allow for basking sites with temperature gradations, provide arboreal access, create vertical sites (rock piles, hanging vines), encourage climbing; changing of perching can stimulate activity and maintain a healthy environment. * Misting (hand or automated). * Water features: shallow pools, deep pools, water cascades, etc. * Natural substrate: soil, wood chip, moss, leaf litter, orchid bark, sand, etc. * Cover: plants, forward facing caves made from logs or rocks, hide boxes (feeding snakes). * Increased enclosure size to add complexity, facilitate temperature and moisture gradations, and increase activity and behavioral repertoire of the animals. Dietary Enrichment * Naturally rotten logs with insects. * Insect dispensers e.g., fake log with timed release insects on a random schedule. * Variety of insect prey. * Novel live prey: goldfish, feeder fish, insects. * Scattering of routine dietary insects in unpredictable quantities and intervals. * Varied feeding schedule of prey items. * Scent trails: blood trails, lactating mouse odors/trails. * Nontoxic browse (e.g., escallonia, willow) for herbivorous reptiles. -Can also be used as temporary perching while they feed. Novel Enrichment/Social Enrichment * Snake sheds. * Rotation of animals into conspecifics’ enclosure. * Animals housed in natural social groupings. * Mixed species exhibits with appropriate species. * Visual barriers to reduce social stress and feeding competition. * Behavioral training to introduce animals to shift boxes, tubes and squeeze chutes. Safety Considerations * Form does not equal similarity; the natural history of each individual species should be considered. * The super-stimulus effect should be avoided, e.g. water at all times to desert animals can cause problems. * Over misting in some species can cause health problems. * The potential of animals drowning in deep (relative to the species), smooth sided pools should be minimized. * Substrate, if used improperly, can cause impaction, suffocation or be media for pathogens. * Sand should be avoided as a substrate for most non-desert species; corn cob can cause problems if ingested. * Dietary variety in snakes can create finicky eaters. * Live prey items can bite and injure the animal being fed. * Browse should be checked for pesticides and other chemicals. * Mixed species exhibits should be designed to avoid species preying on exhibit mates, aggression, social stress and dietary competition. * Keeper safety: even non-venomous reptiles can have septic bites and anticoagulants in their saliva. Care should be taken when working around them and handling them. * Transmissible pathogens such as salmonella pose a risk to humans and other reptiles Reptile enrichment guidelines compiled by Cheryl Frederick, Keeper, Woodland Park Zoological Gardens AAZK National Enrichment Committee Contributors: Paul Cowell, Keeper, Woodland Park Zoological Gardens Dana Payne, Senior Keeper, Woodland Park Zoological Gardens Mike Teller, Lead Keeper, Woodland Park Zoological Gardens Reviewed by: Dr. Darin Collins, Veterinarian, Woodland Park Zoological Gardens Joe Martinez, Program Director and Former President New England Herpetological Society Frank Slavens, Reptile Curator, Woodland Park Zoological Gardens |
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| 08/28/08 11:44am |
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Toxicneon View Profile |
Message To: Minya In reference to Message Id: 1844996 Reptile Enrichment
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| 08/28/08 12:33pm |
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Minya View Profile |
Message To: Toxicneon In reference to Message Id: 1845034 Reptile Enrichment
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| 08/28/08 01:21pm |
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Lelareed4 View Profile |
Message To: Minya In reference to Message Id: 1845065 Reptile Enrichment
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| 08/30/08 12:28pm |
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