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 #1835801


Ninj726
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 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

Hi, I’m new to this forum. I have a M/F pair of Aus h2o dragons in a 60 gal terrarium. They are about two years old now, and are both very healthy. Here is my question. I am hoping to breed them when the time arrives. Should I brumate them this winter, and gear them up to breed next spring, or should I give them another year to grow before I attempt to breed? Any advice will be much appreciated.



08/19/08  01:17am

 #1835806


Rocker3
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  Message To: Ninj726   In reference to Message Id: 1835801


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

i know only a little about australian water dragons but as for breeding i would sugest that you get a bigger cage as they are related to water dragons so that’s about the only advice i can give but they do look healthy a very nice color to i admire their color. but a bigger cage is definitly what you need to breed i put my leapord geko in a 40 gal. tank cuz i’m thinking of breeding him and he’ll need a bigger cage with more space for a female so that’s about all i can give.



08/19/08  01:28am

 #1835807


Yexalen
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  Message To: Rocker3   In reference to Message Id: 1835806


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

oh my, a 60 gallon tank!
That is much much too small, even for one water dragon australian or chinese.

four feet tall 4ft wide and 2 ft deep is absolute MINIMUM for ONE adult
Bigger is always better



Welcome to the site! Hope you stick around! Very beautiful dragons you got.

Brumate is only recommended for breeding but i have NO experience with that topic.



08/19/08  01:32am

 #1835837


Cphill58
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  Message To: Yexalen   In reference to Message Id: 1835807


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

Did they not breed this season ??/ ...did you not have many/ any clutches ...this season?

If you are in calif...what part I am too...Rancho Cucamonga area ....I would wait in line for some off spring...

It is the general consensous that brumating will give the female the greatest benifit ...allowing her to rest and not be constantly mated by the male ...the other idea behind that is to stop her egg production ...take her out of season ...thusly the male also ....But you may need to seperate them to do this sucessfully...especially due to your small set-up.

If they are not sexually mature yet ...and they are not attempting to mate ...there is no reason to rest the female...therefore no brumation is needed.

Once they do begin mating ...then you should consider it...


How ever have you managed to keep them in this tank ??? you must tell me how long they have been in your possesion?

Not to be rude , but I am assuming by your questions and lack of experience ...not long.

If you need any help I woud be happy to assist ...I just hope I can earn some dragon points ...lol

Buiatti is in Agentina ...his winter is now ...and he is brumating his pair/ they are sexually mature ....I will get a message to him to respond to this post....

Chris



08/19/08  02:40am

 #1835845


Ninj726
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  Message To: Cphill58   In reference to Message Id: 1835837


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

I have had them in this setup for over a year now with absolutely no problems. Are you very familiar with Australian Water Dragons? They are a lot less prone to nose bouncing than their chinese counterparts, and can usually be housed in smaller areas because of this. It has been my general understanding that the large space requirements for Chinese Water dragons are also mainly due their nose bouncing tendencies. As for your other comments... The male often attempts to copulate with the female (chasing, head bobbing, biting at the base of the neck, etc) but I have not ever seen a successful copulation, and also have never had any eggs from them. I have provided them with a large water bowl that has room for them to soak, a cave on both the hot side and cool side of the tank, and a basking site that hits about 100 degrees. I use a fluorescent tube bulb to provide uvb, and feed with calcium and multivitamin dusted mealworms. They are both very enthusiastic eaters and will often eat straight out of my hand. Also, a 60 gal is 4 feet long, nearly two feet deep, and nearly two feet wide, not much smaller than what is generally recommended for chinese water dragons.



08/19/08  02:58am

 #1835857


Mama42
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  Message To: Ninj726   In reference to Message Id: 1835845


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

those are some beautiful dragons you got there.... though, id say the one in the back looks quite gravid. but, that might just be me...maybe its just the way shes sitting..

actually, that setup is not the ideal size for a CWD. tallness is ideal. the height is more needed for them than the lenght or width. they are arboreal and need a lot of tall climbing stuff.

i dont know that much about the Aussies. i always assumed they were the same regarding the care and setup an stuff...

there are a few on here with them. Mr Greeeen, though AWOL atm, has 5 males in his setup. he has a hUGE outdoor atrium thing for them lol. you might contact him. i cant remember who else has them.

oh..another person who has them is DragonDreams. she hasnt been on in a while, but does visit from time to time.

good luck!



08/19/08  04:07am

 #1835986


4Kitara
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  Message To: Mama42   In reference to Message Id: 1835857


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

They look great! But I would seriously consider a bigger viv. It’s not that cwd’s need more space than awd’s because of more problems nose rubbing and such as you mentioned. It’s that after all these are living creatures and having them in such a small home would be like having a human living in a closet. All of us here care a great deal for our dragons, they are our babies after all, and do our best to provide the most ideal living arrangements for them. This means big enclosures with plenty of branches to climb, plants to hide behind, pools for water bowls, a variety in their diet, like crix+supers+butterworms+roaches+silkworms and so on, very little waxworms and mealworms since neither is very nutritious and mealworms contain alot of chiten which can build up in their system, that sort of stuff!

One question I have. Do you have a lay box for your female???? It’s hard to picture one in such a small viv, what with the water bowl and hides as well, and it does look as though she MIGHT be gravid! If she is gravid and doesn’t have a suitable place to lay then she will not lay her eggs and will become eggbound, which can lead to death. Also keep in mind that a mature female will lay eggs whether being with a male or not, so just cause you haven’t seen any hanky panky, doesn’t mean she’s not gravid.

Welcome!! And I truly hope we can help you out here!!



08/19/08  11:13am

 #1835989


Toxicneon
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  Message To: Ninj726   In reference to Message Id: 1835845


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

Quote:

I have had them in this setup for over a year now with absolutely no problems. Are you very familiar with Australian Water Dragons? They are a lot less prone to nose bouncing than their chinese counterparts, and can usually be housed in smaller areas because of this. It has been my general understanding that the large space requirements for Chinese Water dragons are also mainly due their nose bouncing tendencies.



This is not true. It is not just about nose bouncing, but about size. AWDs will grow larger and stockier than CWDs. They need to be housed in large enclosures, as the others have said. You should build up from the cage you have, if you don’t want to buy another tank. But they can’t stay in that tank. I house my 14 inch AWD in a 75 gallon, and he likes to rub his whole body against the sides.



08/19/08  11:15am

 #1836002


Rocker3
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  Message To: Toxicneon   In reference to Message Id: 1835989


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

yea my water dragon does that in 2ft. x 2ft. x 4ft. cage. and eddy is only 18 inches long. but i honestly think he does just to annoy and make me mad. but that is just me i think everything has a personality and also he needs a larger cage. so yea like everyone said get a larger cage. or build that’s what i am doing and was whole lot less than the other cage. well actually i got my wood from family freinds or friends what ever you want call your neighbors. bigger cage is the first way to start breeding. for all i know.
i just talk a lot. lol.



08/19/08  11:25am

 #1836018


J5dragon
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  Message To: Toxicneon   In reference to Message Id: 1835989


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

dude don’t mean to be a jerk, but seriously 2 of them for over a year? in that!

Ahh well AWD can grow larger than CWD’s, the only differences i know of is that AWD’s need higher temps, like 100. if you want to breed them you have to hibernate them indoors

Your right, i believe you when you say they are less prone to nose rub because they can adapt to many extreme environments much better then CWD. They have been sighted jumping through floating trash in the Sydney rivers.

I also remember reading some where that they prefer to be housed outside, this helps with breeding. I have a book which tells you how to make an outdoor enclosure for AWD’s. its called Water Dragons by bert langerwerf.

but ya please make a larger viv



08/19/08  11:43am

 #1836030


Rocker3
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  Message To: J5dragon   In reference to Message Id: 1836018


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

yea that’s the book i’ve got and it’s great get that it’s a really good book.



08/19/08  11:56am

 #1836126


Ninj726
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  Message To: Rocker3   In reference to Message Id: 1836030


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

First of, I do not appreciate the insinuation that I do not care about my Dragons as much as some of you. I have had them for over a year, and I am very attached to them. Second, I do realize that I need to build them a bigger cage before they reach their full adult size. But, they are only two yrs old, and have so far only attained about half their adult size. I do plan on building them bigger when they need it. If I could house them outdoors, I already would have done so, but I live in an apartment, so that is not an option.The reason that I am not sure wether or not to brumate this year is that I don’t believe that my female has reached sexual maturity. She was basking under a heat lamp in the picture, and As I’m sure you know they spread their bodies out more when basking to soak up more heat and UV. I have felt for eggs from the female, but she has none. I feel that she might reach maturity during winter, which is y I am torn. Do I cool them down to attempt to breed the following spring, or do I give them more time to grow? Any possible answers to my question will be greatly appreciated



08/19/08  02:07pm

 #1836131


Tarkah
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  Message To: Rocker3   In reference to Message Id: 1836030


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

it is a good book and good read (RIP Bert L.)

True they may be "fine" seem fine in the 60 gallon, but i’d be fine living in my closet. i wouldn’t like it but i mean what else can i do?

The male likes to chase the female around and stuff but i don’t know how much chasing they can in a 4 feet long. i mean by now the male should be nearing 2-3 feet...

Though they adapt better then the Asian counterparts they do need a larger enclosure because they do get bigger than CWD’s.

Cloud got one, and Buiatti has some, Toxicneon has one or was it two?.
all i can remember lol

yah you need a laybox...

Filled with damp soil, at LEAST 6" deep... and long and big enough for the female to turn around and sit comfortable in.. if she’s 2 feet thats at least a 2.5’ x 2.5’x 8inches box.... like a cat litter box... and i dont know how you’d fit one in a 60 gallon

Are you giving her more calcium than usual? what uvb do you have?
Gravid females need alot more calcium for egg developement. if not they either take the calcium from their bones, or they reabsorb the eggs.



08/19/08  02:11pm

 #1836136


Tarkah
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  Message To: Tarkah   In reference to Message Id: 1836131


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

How long is the female? there is a certain suggested size and length before you breed them.
There are alot of members here that can help you in preparing to breed them...

In no way are we saying that you dont care or love your dragons as much as any of us.
We are simply giving out suggestions that we think may help provide your dragons with the best and most comfortable life they can...



08/19/08  02:15pm

 #1836141


Ninj726
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  Message To: Tarkah   In reference to Message Id: 1836131


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

they have their food calcium (with uvb) dusted every feeding. I also have a turtle bone (a block of pure calcium) which they nibble on if they need a bit extra. I have a exo terra 5.0 uv tube 6" above the basking site which I change every 8-10 mos.



08/19/08  02:16pm

 #1836147


J5dragon
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  Message To: Ninj726   In reference to Message Id: 1836126


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

sorry bud,
No doubt you love your dragons, they look really healthy and plump haha.



my book says,

"In Sydney, February to July gets the most rainfall,...Breeding seems to be triggered only by a sufficiently long cool period in winter." (remember winter in Sydney is Feb to July)

in my opinion, since this is only a seasonal change it should not have any affect on the growth of your dragons, and at two years old they are ready.

again i dunno what your set up looks like, but if you don’t already have some "Eco Earth" for the female to dig and lay eggs, that may help stimulate breeding also. just my 2 cent.



08/19/08  02:22pm

 #1836276


Ninj726
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  Message To: J5dragon   In reference to Message Id: 1836147


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

the female is about 8 in snout to vent, and 18-20 in overall. The male is about 9-10 in snout to vent, 20-22 in overall. I use a mix of eco earth, moss, reptibark, and a small amount of sand for their bedding. in both books that I have it says that this should be a suitable bedding for egg laying. I have heard that early breeding can stunt the growth of a female, thereby causing smaller clutches of eggs to be produced, which is why I am unsure as to wether or not I should cool them down this winter. Also, they are kept at 50-70 percent humidity at all times, and the bedding on the cool side of the cage stays damp.



08/19/08  04:45pm

 #1836301


J5dragon
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  Message To: Ninj726   In reference to Message Id: 1836276


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

i doubt it, 20 inch is normal for female....go for it and have a try.....up the females calcium w/o D3 supplement after the cool down and make them nice and plump.
I think it would be best to plan ahead before breeding, you know like you will need another cage incubator ect...it’s kinda pricey.



08/19/08  05:11pm

 #1836312


Ninj726
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  Message To: J5dragon   In reference to Message Id: 1836301


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

I’ve got a home made incubator with a clutch of kingsnake eggs in it right now. they are actually really easy and cheap to make on your own if you have the know how. I’ve also got a 40 gal that I will use for the babies...baby Aussies have no problems being housed together when young (unless there is a runt or two).



08/19/08  05:17pm

 #1836318


Ninj726
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  Message To: J5dragon   In reference to Message Id: 1836301


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

also, got a block of pure calcium in the tank for them to nibble on...I’m sure the female will chomp on it regularly when she’s makin eggs.



08/19/08  05:19pm

 #1836324


J5dragon
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  Message To: Ninj726   In reference to Message Id: 1836312


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

then try it out and see if your successful....ill buy one from you



08/19/08  05:26pm

 #1836326


Ninj726
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  Message To: J5dragon   In reference to Message Id: 1836324


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

lol, cool. thanks for the help!



08/19/08  05:27pm

 #1836549


Mama42
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  Message To: Ninj726   In reference to Message Id: 1836326


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

nose rubbing isnt the only reason for the larger, taller cages. they are arboreal. are found way up in the tree tops of the jungle. and when frightened, kamakazi into the waters below. thats why youll see most water dragons up in the top of the enclosure for most of the time. you should probably research a little and see where these guys are found. on the ground-terrestrial, or up in the trees-arboreal. it may not be life threatening, but i can garrentee they would be happier than in a small cage!

just wanted to make that point. it seems your not looking at all aspects of the situation. some of us may not know that much about Aussies (me), but some do know their stuff. ive been on here for 2 years and have learned quite a bit and would be willing to bet that they are right when they say they need a bigger enclosure.

i would upgrade ASAP!



08/19/08  08:06pm

 #1840965


Cphill58
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  Message To: Mama42   In reference to Message Id: 1836549


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

Using my MSN messenger I placed a message into our friend Buiatti , in Argentina.... I am sure once he gets the direct link I sent and the message to assist he will be glad to do so.

As for your lizards diet ...may i suggest a more varied type....including super worms ( zophobas) and possibly small pinkies ....they are great sources of calcium and protein ....Meal worms are very much lacking as far as nutritious value ....they also have a hard exoskeleton , much more so than the super worms , and are more difficult to digest. Minnows , roaches , butter worms, earthworm, red worms , crickets and various insects can and will provide them with a varied and more protein filled diet.

nice job on keeping them well so far ....I hope they continue to do well for you. As you said the male is always trying to copulate with the female with no success , does this indicate lack of sexual maturity ?

I think it does , and if that is the case, pre mature behavior like this can be detrimental to the well being of the female. It would be wise to separate them for a season ....and then re introduce them when the possibility of maturity is greater.

The male may always be trying and the harassment may be quite stressful for her. Let her develop and become fat and sassy to prepare for the rigors of mating and egg laying. If and when she does mate and become gravid , you will be prepared to separate them again and increase her calcium up take 2x fold to replace the calcium loss due to egg production. And you will be all set up too with a separate enclosure for her to lay and re- cooperate.

My best to you ...again if you need any assistance or clients ...I would love to own some off spring

Chris



08/24/08  03:33am

 #1841076


Clouddancer22
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  Message To: Cphill58   In reference to Message Id: 1840965


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

Quote:

also, got a block of pure calcium in the tank for them to nibble on...I’m sure the female will chomp on it regularly when she’s makin eggs.


I highly doubt it, never heard of this before. Dragons need a pure calcium supplement added to their diet (dusted on insects) about every other feeding, depending on their diet. Also, gravid females need additional calcium, like calcium glucionate drops, 3 dropps per 100g, 3x weekly.



08/24/08  10:39am

 #1841084


4Kitara
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  Message To: Clouddancer22   In reference to Message Id: 1841076


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

Well I can’t help with the breeding thing, never been there myself, but if it was me I would wait another year just to be sure.

But I seriously wanted to say that I didn’t mean that the way you took it!!! I was basicly trying to explain why most of us are so gung ho about bigger vivs and such, and wasn’t saying, AT ALL!, that you didn’t love or care for your dragons!!!!!!! I just know how overwhelming it can be to be told you need a bigger viv and such and was just trying to ease that a lil by explaining it a lil!

Like I said at first, your dragons do look great!!!!! And they wouldn’t look that good if you didn’t take care of em!!!!!!

I guess the only thing I’ll say now is that they are ready for a bigger home as soon as you can build one.

And sorry I made you feel that way, it truly wasn’t my intention!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



08/24/08  11:02am

 #1841514


Buiatti
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  Message To: 4Kitara   In reference to Message Id: 1841084


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

OK, now is my turn here.....

First of all, I have two Chinese ones, not Aussies, as mentioned by Tarak.

J5dragon, you made a little mistake about the seasons times, in South part of the earth, fall is from April to June, winter from July to September, August is the coldest month.

I’ve heard that the Aussies are more suitable to be housed together, really different from the Chinese. So there is a big difference here, MrGreen is able to keep 5 Aussie males together, and most of us, can’t keep 2 Chinese males together, so I don’t know how would it be this couple with the time. I have not idea if the males are so "horny" to try mating all the time, as the Chinese do, and I’ve heard a case of a male killing the female, by all this sexual harassment. But I have no idea if the Aussies have the same mating behavior.

Now, about the brumation, I only know that Aussies also brumate because once I heard MrGreen mentioning that fall was almost over, and all his Aussies were buried, hiding from the cold. They will start brumating once you reduce their daylight period, even if you have not reduced the temps (this is how happened with mine), I started reducing the daylight period 15 mins per week, starting on fall, and when winter started, I have reduced their daylight from 13 to 10 hours daily. Be sure that they will be in the dark to get a good sleep. About the temps, I would suggest you to make some research on that, looking at how the temps are in Australia. I suppose it wouldn’t vary much from the Chinese, except that I would bet that in Australia, the winter is colder than 70, meaning that you may have to decrease a little more the temps for them, but still higher than in the open areas there, since they may dig and hide from the cold.

You will notice that their appetite will reduce, and a lot, but don’t worry, you will also see that they will not loose much weigh. They will start eating just a little, and only about once or twice a week, and will really refuse the food you offer. They do loose weigh, but slowly.

Since we still in winter, have no idea how the return from the brumation will be, so I’m sorry for not being able to give more information on that, but there is no science. Increase the daylight period slowly, and raise the temps back to "normal". BUT, I’ve read that it is recommendable to keep them away for some time after leaving the brumation, since they have to recover from the low feeding period.

Now, I will go a little on your defense here, regarding the size of your viv. The setups of Moleca and Draco are the same size of yours, and they do like it the way it is (they are always away from each other, except when mating). I can leave their doors open, and they do not leave their viv. Draco does some times scratches the glass, but only when he is sure I’m home (if I’m home, but there is no noise, he does not try to get out). He likes very much to be with me, and even if he is in a place he likes, he may jump in my arm, leg or wherever he is able to reach me.

Well, I hope that I was able to be of some help...



08/24/08  08:35pm

 #1841685


Cphill58
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  Message To: Buiatti   In reference to Message Id: 1841514


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

So I am hearing , 2 set ups .... and seperation ...except when mating ....hmmm ...interesting..

Ty Buiattai ...for answering the call, coming all the way up here from Argentina ....lol...wish you could stay longer...

CP



08/24/08  11:58pm

 #1842703


Mr.Greeeeeeen
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  Message To: Cphill58   In reference to Message Id: 1841685


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

HI Ninj726,

I’m not going harp too bad into the cage size it’s already been said and if you decide to stick with what you currently have then lets go from there.... (although I agree with what has been posted... too small!!)

If you want to breed them then brumation is an important part of the process. MY AWD’s will settle in around late Oct. mid Nov. Then they will get active again around mid Feb. to March depending on the weather esp... since I keep mine outdoors.
Yes you are right about them not nose rubbing, they tend not too and are smart enough to not rub the walls When they have just enough room to move around.
Now when you are talking about breeding them they must have room to move and begin the copulation if they don’t then it will not be successful. So cage size and breeding make a big difference.
AWD’s can and expect a lower temp during the winter brumation period, so keeping the temps lower and alowing them to regulate to the lower temps then bringing the temps back up in feb / mar. will initiate the breeding period.

Make sure to allow alot of water for them to soak in.....

Another good suggestion is to send an email to Bert at www.agamainternational.com he is the best in the field and will be glad to help in suggesting the proper breeding method.

Hope this helped and welcome to repticZone.

OK.... i couldn’t help it if att all possible think of what you can do to get them a bigger cage they will be sooooo much happier and so will you to watch them in a more natural habitat since they love to climb and definatly love their deep water holes....

Good Luck!!!!

Mr. G!!!!



08/26/08  12:15am

 #1844059


4Kitara
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  Message To: Mr.Greeeeeeen   In reference to Message Id: 1842703


 In need of some Australian Water Dragon advice

Just wanted to bump this up and make sure Ninj726 sees Mr. Greens post since he’s our aussie expert, lol!!!!



08/27/08  11:45am
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