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 New Yellow Uromastyx Help?

First off I’ve read a lot on here about lightning and feeding and everything in between, but a lot of it seems to be from years ago. I recently bought a Yellow Uromastyx from a pet store, and have never had many problems with pet store bought animals. So far he’s probably 7-8 inches, kind of skinny and won’t eat. It’s been only 1 1/2 days, but he wouldn’t touch the romaine lettuce/carrots I gave him (I don’t have many vegetables at the moment). He’s in a 29 gallon aquarium for now. I’ve had Leopard Geckos, both are fat, happy and 3 years old. I’ve had a Bearded Dragon I’m struggling with still, but the Uromastyx has been the most difficult yet (obviously 36 hours isn’t much to go on).

What I want to know is, are Uromastyx picky eaters at time? Take awhile to adjust? And the biggest question I have that seems to have a million different responses for, is what kind of lighting do people use? I have a 100w heat bulb that works great, but costs enough on the electric bill as is. Is there any sure fire way to get Uromastyx the proper UVB? I currently use a Zilla Desert 50 UVB light about 18 inches long, and the tank is 36 x 12 wide. About 18 inches deep, minus 3 inches of substrate. I plan on building a 60" by 24" by 21-24" tank for him in the next couple months...What UVB lighting should I use then? I’ve heard of the Arcadia T5 but with all these lights it seems they either emit too much UVB or not enough...I have a lot of other projects and costs not animal related so I’d like to keep the light costs to a decent cost if possible.

11/28/15  09:34pm


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  Message To: TTH27   In reference to Message Id: 2315939

 New Yellow Uromastyx Help?

I’m a little disturbed by the fact that you have a high maintenance Uro and yet you want to keep costs low.

I’m sorry , that just doesn’t set well with me. I always recommend the best lamps and lights. Starting with mega ray self ballasted mercury vapor lamps...48-58.00
The next level would be Arcadia or Reptisun T8 lamps because in your case fixtures are easier to acquire. However the new T5 HO is a step up, but requires a new fixture unless you are knowledgeable enough to change ballasts and bi pin lamp holders.

As for feeding and not eating and not supplying the proper food...
You might want to measure your temps with a temp gun and make sure they are reaching 105F - 120F at the basking area.
Offering any and all proper food items to stimulate appetite including cactus pad and the cactus fruit known as prickly pear. Instead of carrots you might try a healthier calcium rich butternut squash and additional calcium rich greens instead of romaine, which has no nutritional value and basically is just a water holding membrane.

Do you have a good food chart such as those recommended for Green iguanas and Bearded dragons. They specifically list the Ca: P ratios on each veggie item for reference, thus giving you solid information and proper choices.

You wouldn’t by chance be using a CFL for UVB would you?? Bad news IMO

11/29/15  11:21am


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  Message To: Cphill58   In reference to Message Id: 2315944

 New Yellow Uromastyx Help?

I didn’t mean I wouldn’t give him what he needs, but if there were 2 products and both were considered highly effective, I’d choose the cheaper one, I like to save money when it doesn’t harm the animals involved. Does the distance from the ground level matter when it comes to the UVB strength? Or is it OK as long as it’s between 12" - 24" from the ground level? (The distance may be incorrect, not so sure). Right now I have him in front of a big window which gets about 6-7 hours of constant sunlight.

I’ve gotten the basking area up to about 102.5 today, using a 100W infrared bulb. I’m guessing I’ll have to bump up to a 150W at some point. I’m not using a CFL for UVB. I fed him the romaine lettuce and carrots only because I didn’t have too much to offer since Thanksgiving wiped the fridge out, and didn’t want to just buy him any random vegetable until I get a good chart set up. Is it smart to have 2 different dishes available for him? 1 with greens, and 1 with any of the other vegetables he can have? I do have a food chart for Bearded Dragons.

He also wasn’t moving much today at all at first...Slept a good 12+ hours straight which I thought was a bad sign. I got him from a pet store so I do question if he’s been cared for well enough to keep him completely healthy, but he resumed his digging and sniffing around for an hour or two. I’m guessing he’s still stressed for now. Thank you so much for your help.

11/29/15  01:44pm


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  Message To: TTH27   In reference to Message Id: 2315945

 New Yellow Uromastyx Help?

Is he in brumation? Because I’ve had a lot of uros over the years and almost every single one of them has benefited from 120-130 F basking temp. 100 is WAY too low.

Is he from a pet store like Petsmart or Petco? Stores like that are notorious for selling reptiles with MBD, so I’d definitely up his calcium level. Closely watch him to make sure he’s not showing any signs of sickness. Try for greens that are high in water-value and calcium. If he still won’t eat, try lots and lots of greens! Different uros have different tastes; all of mine LOVE dandelion leaves. My Saharans love Alfalfa while my Ornate doesn’t. Also, I’ve found that uromastyx love beans and I always offer a bean dish for them. Beans are high in protein and are pretty good for them. That’s also one of the few times that I actually get them to eat their calcium dust haha. They hate it when it’s on their greens.

He might be sluggish right now because of the time of year. Sleeping for long hours is not uncommon; just watch for weight loss.

A 29 gallon is also too small, even if it is temporary. So you’ll definitely need to get him a proper enclosure soon. Uros do seem to need more time to adjust. Most of the time I’ll leave them alone for three weeks instead of one. UroFarm used to leave them alone for an entire month.

12/07/15  01:23pm


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  Message To: Blueh   In reference to Message Id: 2316004

 New Yellow Uromastyx Help?

A few weeks later and not much had changed until today. I still have him in a 29 gallon tank (almost have his 60" x 36" one finished) and for the past 3 days he had not moved at all. Today I felt I had to check on him, because his tail/legs hadn’t moved one tiny bit. I put him on his log, he sunned himself awhile and finally was active for the first time in a few weeks. Fed him some escarole, which he ate a bit of. He finally seems like he’s doing OK. I see that I need to get his basking spot hotter, and move him into his new tank ASAP and leave him be.

Now that I’ve figured out was he likes to eat (trying seeds tomorrow, Parakeet seed mix), is there any way to get him out of brumation a bit? I want him to have a normal life, where in the wild he would go into a bit of a lull during the winter, but I need him to be more active than once every 4-5 days so he can stay healthy. Also, is it better to have the sides of his tank covered or left open? I had them covered and it made it much easier to keep warm, but when I keep the sides uncovered he seems more interested and active, seems to like doing the glass dance and digging around more.

12/19/15  07:47pm


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  Message To: TTH27   In reference to Message Id: 2316185

 New Yellow Uromastyx Help?

*Not sure how to edit my post but it’s a 72" x 36" tank not 60 x 36. And I got my Uro from a country store (like Petsmart but with more farm supplies, not strictly a pet shop). They actually had him in good condition, I asked what lights they use and it’s ReptiSun 10.0 I think, I’ve heard those are good. They also put calcium on his food every morning when they fed him.

12/19/15  07:52pm

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