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 #2314003


MOW
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 Dehydrated and only eating from hand.

Hey guys,

I have a red saharan that we got in Sept. He weighed 75g. He has slowly lost significant weight and now is down to 50g. I have taken him to 2 different vets who both treated him for a parasite. The first knew less than I did about Uros so I searched out another a month or so later. He was definitely more informed and started him on antibiotics as well. After he finished his meds he began to eat greens from my hand/force feeding but he won’t touch the stuff in his bowl. He looks terrible and it takes me around 30min a day to feed him/give him fluids via a syringe. He is also on a daily calcium syrup supplement that both vets agreed was a good idea.

His Set Up:
40gal breeder (I now know I need a 4’x2’)

His temps are 130 in basking, 95 on hot side floor, 80-85 on cool side (accomplished by a raised, cave like basking rock in the hot corner)

Food: Endive, Escarole, Spring Mix, Bok Choy, Arugula, occasional squash, he used to like peas and an occasional blueberry but won’t touch them now.

Supplements: Mazuri Turtle pellet (ground up), Super Veggie Dust, Calcium Syrup til he eats better by order of the vet.

He has hides on both the hot, middle, and cool sides

Lights: Zoomed 150w the combo basking/UVB bulb, and a ceramic heater over the middle of the cage.

I currently have to hold him and literally press the stems of the greens to his lips until he opens and takes bites. Same for the syringe with the calcium and again with Pedialite to try and keep him hydrated. He eats and drinks from my hand, but it takes forever! I have 3 small kiddos and I can’t spend this kind of time feeding a Uro everyday. I really want him to improve. I am on the verge of purchasing the Showcase 4x2x18" cage. Any ideas? Also, will my current bulb be sufficient for that cage to ensure the proper temp gradient? I will be taking another sample of his feces in this week, if I can get one. He is producing feces on a pretty regular basis as long as he eats enough, but it is often runny/diarrhea like. He is nothing but bones right now.

I’m measuring his temps with a temp gun and they seem right by everything I’ve read. But I also read over and over that you can’t get the proper gradient in a 40gal breeder, so I’m a little confused.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!



06/22/15  08:08am

 #2314176


MOW
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  Message To: MOW   In reference to Message Id: 2314003


 Update

I ended up getting the 4 X 2 Showcase cage. Temps seem right. He has eaten a bit on his own from his bowl. He is on slate pavers, rocks, and bird seed. He also seems to be a bit more active, but not much. Worried he will continue to get worse in the dehydration department if I do not use the syringe. I have had lots of views but 0 responses. Any advice would help.

Oh yeah, I took in another stool sample and it came back clean...



07/08/15  09:25am

 #2314177


Takahiro111
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  Message To: MOW   In reference to Message Id: 2314176


 Update

If your worried about him drinking try to get the water to move some animals don’t like still water and some will drink off plant,rocks etc....



07/08/15  09:51am

 #2314456


MOW
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  Message To: MOW   In reference to Message Id: 2314176


 Update 2

He still doesn’t look very good. His bones are clearly visible. He doesn’t seem to be eating much when we see his food bowl at the end of the day, but he is consistently having what appear to be "good" looking feces. I have left a small water dish in the cage, understanding there is a debate on that, but I’m hoping he can hydrate a bit.

He is still fairly active. Not running around by any means, but he does travel throughout the cage.



08/04/15  02:05pm

 #2314462


That Uro Guy
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  Message To: MOW   In reference to Message Id: 2314456


 Update 2

Your setup and temps seem sufficient, it sounds like a WC case to me, of which i have no personal experience. The overly runny stools may not necessarily be from the parasites (though it is likely they are) when an animal takes on too much water they expel it in their stools causing them to be far runnier than they should be which would explain why the tests came back clean and his stools were still poor if that is the case? Try to avoid too many protein heavy foods such as pulses peas etc... before you see any real turnaround in the animal, as these require far more water to digest than other foods and with his limited food intake he could well still be somewhat dehydrated/not taking on enough water. I would not recommend leaving the water dish in the cage, as the humidity increase poses a serious risk to the animal especially in its weakened state, with the threat of RI’s and things like tail/mouth rot etc rocketing with higher humidity and lower temps with this species. Rinsing his food instead, before you give it to him will ensure he gets the extra water while not posing such a risk humidity wise.

Other than this though i am not sure there is really too much else you can do, apart from hope the antibiotics have cleared up any parasites and he makes a turnaround. The only other piece of advise i can think to give you would be to contact Doug Dix at Deer Fern Farms, as he has plenty of experience acclimatizing and dealing with WC animals and Saharan’s. Homepage:Link some basic info on Saharan’s from DFF: Link and this is his Email:



08/04/15  03:15pm

 #2314541


MOW
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  Message To: That Uro Guy   In reference to Message Id: 2314462


 Update 2

Thanks! I’ll see if I can get in touch with Doug.



08/11/15  07:57am

 #2314566


Cphill58
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  Message To: MOW   In reference to Message Id: 2314541


 Update 2

The de worming and parasite medication can kill off the beneficial gut flora also... we add some probiotics to the diet in powder form from capsules. A few applications for a week is about right ...just a dusting like calcium

Any probiotic for humans can do the job



08/13/15  11:59am


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