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 #2303592


T41n73d
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 Mali Uromasty MBD please help!

I always kind of suspected something was wrong and MBD seems to explain everything. I talked to Bob from reptileUV and he seemed to confirm my suspicion. Gizmo, who I believe to be a female mali uromastyx doesn’t seem to be very active at all. I rarely ever see her eat and when she does its not staple foods. I got her curly endive and she will only eat almonds though very sparingly. I tried to follow Bob’s advice and liquefied the endive along with pedialite and a little water. The problem is I can’t get her to swallow any let alone open her mouth. Should I force open it? When I try to put the oral syringe by her mouth she seems to shake it a way in very coarse and rigid movements almost like she stutters, I suspect this is from the metabolic bone disease. I’m attaching pictures to show you my setup, the lights are from left to right as follows; 50watt flood bulb 100Watt megasun from reptile uv, 70watt flood and a ceramic heater. I also have a long fluorescent tube. The temperatures are hard to measure since my tempgun TG1 seems to be very uncalibrated and not take accurate temps. I wish I know somewhere local to get one from since I don’t think I can afford to wait for shipping. Please help with any good suggestions you have as I’m not sure what to do and can’t stand to see the disease progress. Im not sure maybe if I have to much stuff in the aquarium I notice other peoples set-ups are much more open and less crowded but I like to have some elevation to get her closer to my 100W megaray if she chooses. My aquarium is 48" x 18" x 21" (LxWxH) and I have about 4-5 inches of substrate (playsand, clay, topsoil and vermiculite mixture). She seems to be moving around more now that I took her out of her hide and am writing this but If I leave her alone she won’t come out for days.






02/11/14  01:34pm

 #2303593


T41n73d
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  Message To: T41n73d   In reference to Message Id: 2303592


 Mali Uromasty MBD please help!

Also I think its worth noting that my tempgun measures my forehead to be 92.5 at a 1inch distance. I figure its about 5 degrees off and have been assuming any temp I take in the aquarium is about 5 degrees higher than the reading. Here are the following temperatures as the temp gun reads them:
Basking site 115 F
Middle 126 F
Cool End 80 F

I have bought many lights over the past week trying to get these temperatures right and am struggling. I realize the basking site should be 126 while the middle should be more like 115. Also the ramp under the magaray is only 106F. I was really thinking the megaray would produce enough heat and I could put it over the basking site.



02/11/14  01:42pm

 #2303610


Corpsb6
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  Message To: T41n73d   In reference to Message Id: 2303593


 Mali Uromasty MBD please help!

Your concerns regarding MDB should probably be taken up with a qualified vet. They should be able to tell you if you have a problem. Regarding the temperatures, I don’t think your temperatures should be a problem. I have several uros and none of them have temps as high as 126 degrees in the hot spot. Usually they are at about 115 degrees. One thing I have done to keep temps up in a screen covered aquarium is put aluminum foil on the top of the cage around the light to keep the heat from escaping through the screen top. If you do this you should probably leave the cool end uncovered and make sure the temps aren’t too high. Also, how long have you had this animal? From your post I am assuming you got it recently. Is that correct? If so, it could be less active due to the time of year. Several of my animals bromate during part of the winter (I live in Minnesota). This could explain the lack of activity and appetite. Several of mine don’t eat during part of the winter months. The best thing for you to do would be to see a vet who treats reptiles to make sure that MBD or something else is not an issue. I hope everything works out OK for you.



02/11/14  05:41pm

 #2303622


T41n73d
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  Message To: Corpsb6   In reference to Message Id: 2303610


 Mali Uromasty MBD please help!

I actually had her a while but didn’t realize how much of a problem this could be. I got her from some people who didn’t have a clue about her they had a regular house light bulb and a 20 gallon aquarium she probably would’ve been dead a long time ago. I think that she’s really nervous and scared she seems to come out when no one watches her and go in her hide when people are staring. I am a college student and don’t have much money, I’m not sure If I could afford a vet and judging from reading similar posts the vets don’t seem t say anything different than "calcium deficiency" anyways. That’s interesting though because I remember reading at different locations the basking site should be between 120-130 degrees. Anyways reptile basics said they would refund my temp gun and I sent the bad one out the other day. I’ve made many changes to her enclosure over time and each time it seemed closer to how it ought to be at first but then she started not eating, coming out, being very active at all, or basking. Is there any good resources to read about brumation so I can know if that’s what she’s doing? Also I have curly endive and I have yet to see her eat any.



02/12/14  10:35am

 #2303679


Corpsb6
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  Message To: T41n73d   In reference to Message Id: 2303622


 Mali Uromasty MBD please help!

Sorry I didn’t respond to your questions earlier. I was out of town for a few days. You mention several items in your last entry. First, regarding shyness, Uromastyx can be pretty skittish. I think that the fact that they readily retreat into their hide boxes if they feel threatened makes it more difficult to get them to adjust to people. I have mine in a separate room that I am in only for a short time each day. Several of them retreat into their hides when I enter the room and don’t reemerge until after I leave. Even some of the ones I have had for several years will do this. As far as basking temperatures go, I agree with you that temps as high as 120-130 degrees are noted in several references. I was just saying that I don’t use temps that high and I have not noticed any ill effects from temps in the range of 110 degrees. For brumation, I don’t know of any references that would tell you whether or not your Uromastyx is trying to brumate right now. The following link discusses how to brumate your Uromastyx, as well as other useful information. I don’t turn off lights in the cages as is discussed in the following link but several of my Uromastyx nonetheless will brumate for 2 to 3 months. I am not sure why mine do this since I don’t make changes to trigger this action. I assume it is due to lower nighttime temperatures (upper 60s) in the room they are in but it may be also related to changes in daylight duration in winter or humidity, etc. Link: http://uroranch.com/uroranch.com/Info/uromastyx%20care%20sheet%202010.htm. I also recommend that you look at the Deer Ferns website. This website has a lot of good information regarding keeping and breeding Uromastyx. Also, they breed several types of Uromastyx. http://www.deerfernfarms.com/. These two links will give you a lot of good information on Uromastyx from people who know a lot more than I do. I hope this helps.



02/16/14  12:39pm


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