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 #2300516


Sdraiders619
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 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

I just found this site and I love how nice and informative everyone seems to be. I am going to be getting a 10.5 inch red Nigerian male uromastyx tomorow night and I just want to make sure everything is right before I purchase him. Right now I have a 40 gallon breeder tank and I may upgrade to a 75 gallon in a year when he gets even bigger. I have pre washed dust free pool filter sand for the substrate, an 18 inch 25 watt zilla slime line uvb, and 150 watt heat basking bulb. Temp is about 115 Fahrenheit on heat side and 82 on cool side. Now prepare for the ton of questions that are about to be asked.... Lol

1. Is my lighting sufficient? Do I need a stronger uvb?if so how many watts?

2. Do they need heat lamps or heat at night? How bout heating pads under the tank for warmth at night?

3. Is finch zupreem a good bord see for them? How often should it be fed to them? Also how bout rep cal juvenile bearded dragon pellets, or box turtle pellets?

4.last but not least how often should I give him a warm bath? I’ve heard different opinions on this...


Thanks guys and I hope to hear from u soon! :)



08/19/13  03:05am

 #2300517


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300516


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Also do i moisten any of the foods in question three or do I feed them dry



08/19/13  08:14am

 #2300518


LookingforUro
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300517


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Ok.. first no baths! No water in their house. I do not moisten any of the dry food I give.. but the only dry food I give is Mazuri Tortoise pellets and I grind them into a powder and sprinkle it on their veggies.

Your hot side.. is that the ambient temperature of the hot side.. or is that the temp of the basking spot. How are you measuring this temp? A temp gun is the most accurate. You want their basking temp to be around 130 and the ambient temp of the hot side to be around 100. I have a very large basking area and the temp on there ranges from 120 to 140 depending on where you take it.. so my uro can choose how hot he wants to be.

As for your UV light.. I dont know anything about that one.. but someone here will.

Unless your house is freezing.. they dont really need heat at night. If the lizard is getting below 70 you may want to consider a ceramic heat emitter.

It looks like finch zupreem is a pellet food. You want only seeds. Something without sunflower seeds is good. I buy millet in bulk. I bought a pound of it and have not used it all yet and I have had my uro for 7 months.



08/19/13  10:48am

 #2300519


LookingforUro
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  Message To: LookingforUro   In reference to Message Id: 2300518


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Oh.. and if you want to do pellets.. I would do iguana pellets. Beardie pellets probably have too much protein for a uromastyx. You really want the main portion of their diet to be leafy greens like endive or escarole.



08/19/13  10:50am

 #2300521


Vers
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300516


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Quote:

Right now I have a 40 gallon breeder tank and I may upgrade to a 75 gallon in a year when he gets even bigger.


I would seriously consider something larger off the bat rather than upgrading down the road. Ideally you want to provide an enclosure with ample surface area, no smaller than 4x2. If you’re handy enough, or know someone who is, I would think about building it yourself. With that said, how many hides are you currently offering? Can you provide a picture of the current setup?

Quote:

an 18 inch 25 watt zilla slime line uvb


Check out Arcadia T5 HO 12% UVB options at lightyourreptiles(dot)com. These bulbs are far superior to the one you already have, both in terms of output (lumens, UV, spectrum) and longevity (6mo vs. +1yr).

Quote:

and 150 watt heat basking bulb


This is going to be overkill, at least in terms of wattage. I would suggest swinging by a hardware store and grabbing a couple medium-high wattage (45-80w) PAR 38 outdoor halogen flood (not spot) lamps, preferably dimmable variants, along with a dimmer switch/extension cable. Dimmable lamps will allow you to adjust heat output as needed. rather than constantly raising or lowering the basking surface OR the lamps themselves. In addition multiple flood lamps will help provide a large, well diffused basking area, rather than a single, small concentrated area of heat.

Quote:

Temp is about 115 Fahrenheit on heat side and 82 on cool side.


As mentioned, if the basking surface temp (measured with an IR temp gun) is 115f it’s going to be on the low side--typically you should aim for 120-130f. If you do not own an IR temp gun I would get one...check out amazon, newegg or harbor freight. The same applies to a digital (not analog/dial-type) thermometer/hygrometer combo.

Quote:

Do they need heat lamps or heat at night? How bout heating pads under the tank for warmth at night?


I would try to keep ambient nighttime temps at or above 75f. If the enclosure’s ambient drops below this you can either boost the thermostat in the room, add a ceramic heat emitter OR use an under tank heater on a thermostat (never without).

Quote:

Is finch zupreem a good bord see for them? How often should it be fed to them?


You may want to consider limiting seeds, specifically millet and seeds that pack high levels of fat/protein (i.e. sunflower). While millet is recommended often I think it’s important to keep in mind that the seed contains goitrogens, which can become problematic if fed in high amounts over long periods of time.

Quote:

Also how bout rep cal juvenile bearded dragon pellets, or box turtle pellets?


I would avoid both bearded dragon and box turtle diet pellets, which are generally too high in protein. If anything stick to Mazuri tortoise pellets or a similar variant.

Quote:

last but not least how often should I give him a warm bath? I’ve heard different opinions on this...


IMO this should be considered a last ditch effort in cases where animals are severely dehydrated, although force feeding is likely a better option in such cases. Overall I believe soaking poses more risk than reward.

Something you didn’t touch on, which is very important, is complete diet. I would stick with curly endive (C. endivia var. crispum), escarole (C. endivia var. latifolia), chicory (C. intybus), orchard grass (buy seeds on ebay), dandelion greens, winter squash (i.e. spaghetti), despined opuntia (if available), edible flowers (i.e. hibiscus, dandelion, nasturtium, etc) and mazuri tortoise pellets. Overall these dietary items will provide a very good nutritional balance. Many of the aforementioned greens you can grow or forage for on your own, like dandelion, chicory, orchard grass and edible flowers. Depending on your location you may also have various species of opuntia cacti avialable as well.



08/19/13  02:03pm

 #2300522


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Vers   In reference to Message Id: 2300521


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Wow u guys are freaking awesome! Thanks soooo much for the help! And what do u guys think about freeze dried fruits or vegetables that u moisten before feeding?
And I just bought a zoo med humidity guage and 2 thermometer guages. before I used an old thermometer from a fish tank to get those readings lol. I also returned the old lamp fixture I had and bought a zoo med deep dome fixture. The guages are the plastic circle ones that Velcro to the back wall. I put one right next to his basking rock and the arrow is as far as it can go (past 120 degrees) so I don’t know the exact temp which kind of scares me, can it be to hot? The bulb is a 150 watt intense basking bulb. Also he lays on his rock house under the basking bulb, won’t his stomach burn by laying on the rock, I read they have no nerve endings in their stomach. The cool side is 84 degrees, and the humidity is at 62. So do u guys think my uvb bulb is sufficient? Will putting calcium powder on all his feedings make up for it if it isn’t good enough? Thanks again! This site is incredible so glad I joined.



08/19/13  06:10pm

 #2300524


Vers
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300522


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

I’m happy to help but I would seriously suggest reading back through what I posted above...a lot of the decisions you’ve made counter the suggestions I’ve given, specifically in regards to thermometers and lighting. As far as freeze dried fruits, I would avoid them...the same applies to fruit in general.



08/19/13  07:48pm

 #2300526


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Vers   In reference to Message Id: 2300524


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

thanks vers I am going to buy a couple digital thermometers tomorrow. So now that my new fixture has been on for about 8 hours the basking spot Is at least 130 degrees and the colder side has risen from 84 degrees and has settled between 90-91. Is that too hot for the cool side? If so I will return the 150 watt and get 100 watt bulb



08/19/13  09:45pm

 #2300527


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300526


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Also when I brought the uro home I layed it down and ran my pointed finger down each side of him to see if they were symmetrical and his left side by the lower part of his ribs on the very side feels like a bone is protruding out, kinda feels like a small ball, I read that this could be a lymph sac, I really hope its not a broken bone or small tumor. Whatbdk u guys think?



08/19/13  09:52pm

 #2300528


Vers
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300526


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Haha no problem, but again I think you should take a closer look at my initial post--be sure to read through it thoroughly. You will need to measure the basking surface with an IR temp gun in order to estimate surface temps. Ambient thermometers, especially analog variants, which are notoriously inaccurate, are not capable of reading surface temps. A digital thermometer is great for ambient temps, specifically those on the cool end, but that’s as far as they go.



08/19/13  09:58pm

 #2300534


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Vers   In reference to Message Id: 2300528


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

OK so I will get the temp gun as well, do u mine answering my other questions, you’ve been such a great help! Have u ever heard of the lymph sack I was talking about, is a uromastyx rib structure suppose to be symmetrical?



08/20/13  12:45am

 #2300543


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300534


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions



08/20/13  02:24pm

 #2300544


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300516


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions





First day home



At the pet store



08/20/13  02:28pm

 #2300546


Vers
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  Message To: Sdraiders619   In reference to Message Id: 2300534


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Yes, many genera (specifically those native to arid environments) have accessory lymph sacs, which are used to store fluids. The only time it would appear swollen or lumpy is if the animal is on a high moisture diet (many captive animals are). Here is a Link that explains their function in detail. With that said, I cannot be sure this is what you’re seeing. As far as the skeletal structure goes, to my knowledge everything should be relatively symmetrical. Here is a Link to a thread that includes X-rays of two individuals. In any case an experienced herp vet would be your best bet in finding out. I would also suggest collecting a fresh stool sample from the animal (store it in a ziplock) to deliver to your local vet for a fecal exam. If the animal has a large parasite load it would be ideal to take care of it asap.

On to your setup...there are a few things that should be addressed.
-You should be providing at least two low profile, well enclosed hides. One should be placed on the warm end and one on the cool end. The more options the better.
-Your UVB bulb isn’t going to be as effective as it could be in it’s current position. Most normal output linear fluorescent bulbs should be implemented within 12" of the basking surface without any tight screening between it and the animal. Fly screen, similar to what you’re using, can block upwards of 40% of UVB output. You can skirt this issue by either cutting a hole in the screen, replacing the screen with 1/4" or 1/2" hardware cloth/welded wire or, if there is enough space, mount the entire fixture to the bottom of the screen top. But again, make sure it’s approximately 12" from the closest surface (ideally a portion the basking surface).
-Be sure to refer back to the dimmable halogen flood lamps I suggested initially. You’re going to save yourself a decent amount of money over the long haul if you use them instead of reptile oriented basking lamps.



08/20/13  03:22pm

 #2300577


Sdraiders619
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  Message To: Vers   In reference to Message Id: 2300546


 New to uromastyx :) got some questions

Thanks vers. In that link from the top view of the UROS especially the male both their ribs on the left side look a little disfigured compared to the right side. Does ur uro’s left side of his ribs feel the same as the right?



08/22/13  01:59am


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