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Patches107 Jbreddawg Datsunissan28 Datsunissan28 Patches107 Jbreddawg Obi Carl Kenobi UROKEEPER |
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Patches107 View Profile |
The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
Thanks |
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| 10/23/09 01:01pm |
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Jbreddawg View Profile |
Message To: Patches107 In reference to Message Id: 2087915 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
I didnt do a step by step but I did post a thread with my build in it. Let me know if you havnt seen it and I will dig it up. |
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| 10/23/09 04:37pm |
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Datsunissan28 View Profile |
Message To: Jbreddawg In reference to Message Id: 2087971 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
-if you are having the front as the door have a good sized lip at the bottom to hold in any substrate. -make it taller. If your going to have your lights enclosed I would make it at least 30" tall if not taller. As much as people always say they are terrestrial, they sure do love to climb as well. |
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| 10/23/09 07:46pm |
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Datsunissan28 View Profile |
Message To: Datsunissan28 In reference to Message Id: 2088017 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
Quote: After doing some more research into the formaldehyde used in engineered wood products (MDF, particle board, OSB, etc) I’ve found out some useful information. I work in the construction business and was always told the only real danger was during cutting and mostly so only in MDF. When I heard of MDF being dangerous for reptiles I was very curious. I’ve been asking around with other people that have had a lot more experience with wood products than I. 1.First off many people on here seem confused on engineered wood products. There are several different types commonly used in making reptile enclosures. Solid wood is typically the most expensive. Untreated wood can be found in a variety of sized, but becomes unrealistic after a certain width. Cost is also based on the number and size of knots in the wood.
Plywood has at least one side with a solid wood veneer. The veneers are are made from a large log that has been peeled around the edge making thin, but wide pieces. These layers are pressed and glued with the grains facing at 90 degrees. Plywood comes in all types of wood veneers.
OSB is short for Oriented Strand Board. This is made of large particles of wood chips positioned in overlapping directions then pressed and glued together.
Particleboard is made with smaller particle of softwoods that have been pressed and glued into sheets.
MDF or medium density fiber board is similiar to particleboard except the size of the particles used are significantly smaller (think cardboard fibers instead of large sawdust). The process of heating, pressing and gluing removes most of natural resins from softwoods that cause problems in reptiles.
2. The amount of formaldehyde in the glues Particleboard and MDF are both indoor only products. They both react poorly when exposed to water. This is because of the glue used to hold the particles together. Formaldehyde is contained within these glues. Urea-Formaldehyde is used in both these products and hardwood plywood. HCHO or formaldehyde is released from hydolysis or in simpler terms water breaks the glue into two parts, one being formaldehyde. So an introduction of water (liquid or vapor from humidity) without sealer not only can make the product expand/warp, but the glue breaks down releasing formaldehyde. Solid woods obviously contain no type of formaldehyde so there is no worry there. OSB and softwood plywood is glued with phenol-formaldehyde. These are made for outdoor use and can resist moisture much better. Phenol-formaldehyde releases about 1% the amount of emissions MDF historically does. 3. Formaldehyde limits by location In America formaldehyde emissions are limited to .3ppm (parts per million) California has formaldehyde emission free policy. Germany seems to be the strictest county with .1ppm. Norway, Hungary and Australia also all have limitations. As far as I know the UK and China have no such restrictions. 4. Table Product emissions (one millionth gram per square meter surface area per day) MDF 17,600-55,000 Hardwood Plywood 1500-34,000 Particleboard 2000-25,000 Softwood Plywood 240-720 Fiberglass Products 400-470 |
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| 10/23/09 07:48pm |
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Patches107 View Profile |
Message To: Datsunissan28 In reference to Message Id: 2088018 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
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| 10/23/09 11:58pm |
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Jbreddawg View Profile |
Message To: Patches107 In reference to Message Id: 2088080 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
I like swing doors. They make hardware specifically for it. Some like sliders better and you can buy sliding door track. Just make sure to have the front lip around 4 inches high or they will throw sand everywhere !! Mine is about 2.5 inches and I have to sweep up sand on a daily basis . Open front cages let you put your lights on top and not move them. Lights tend to burn out early if you have to touch them everyday. I built my enclosure 30 inches tall so that I can have the lights inside out of view. Don’t go short, don’t believe everyone who says uro’s don’t climb. They will use every bit of space you provide them with in any direction , even up. |
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| 10/24/09 08:06pm |
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Obi Carl Kenobi View Profile |
Message To: Jbreddawg In reference to Message Id: 2088321 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
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| 10/27/09 02:53pm |
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UROKEEPER View Profile |
Message To: Obi Carl Kenobi In reference to Message Id: 2089075 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?
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| 11/02/09 10:39am |
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