Your Reptile and Amphibian Resource and Information Site

Back to Uromastyx Forum   Forums   Home   Members Area  

Uromastyx Forum

Patches107   Jbreddawg   Datsunissan28   Datsunissan28   Patches107   Jbreddawg   Obi Carl Kenobi   UROKEEPER  
 Member  Message

 #2087915


Patches107
View Profile





 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

I’ve seen a lot of threads on here in which people show themselves building their terrarium, but none really give instructions on how to do so. Now, I’m not a bad builder, but I’m pretty clueless on how to do so if I don’t have the basic materials or how to do it, so could someone help me out in case I decide to do it?
Thanks



10/23/09  01:01pm

 #2087971


Jbreddawg
View Profile



  Message To: Patches107   In reference to Message Id: 2087915


 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

Basically your just building a big box. you can add what ever options you want such as windows,doors,sliding doors,open lid,etc...
I didnt do a step by step but I did post a thread with my build in it. Let me know if you havnt seen it and I will dig it up.



10/23/09  04:37pm

 #2088017


Datsunissan28
View Profile



  Message To: Jbreddawg   In reference to Message Id: 2087971


 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

Just some things to keep in mind that I would change after building my first build.
-if you are having the front as the door have a good sized lip at the bottom to hold in any substrate.
-make it taller. If your going to have your lights enclosed I would make it at least 30" tall if not taller. As much as people always say they are terrestrial, they sure do love to climb as well.



10/23/09  07:46pm

 #2088018


Datsunissan28
View Profile



  Message To: Datsunissan28   In reference to Message Id: 2088017


 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

Here is some more info for on materials you might want to read over:

Quote:


After doing some more research into the formaldehyde used in engineered wood products (MDF, particle board, OSB, etc) I’ve found out some useful information.

I work in the construction business and was always told the only real danger was during cutting and mostly so only in MDF. When I heard of MDF being dangerous for reptiles I was very curious. I’ve been asking around with other people that have had a lot more experience with wood products than I.

1.First off many people on here seem confused on engineered wood products.
There are several different types commonly used in making reptile enclosures.
Solid wood is typically the most expensive. Untreated wood can be found in a variety of sized, but becomes unrealistic after a certain width. Cost is also based on the number and size of knots in the wood.

It can be shaped and sanded with almost all wood tools. It can be stained, painted, or coated with most products. It is also one of the lightest materials by volume. Besides cost another downside is it is more likely to warp, expand and contract.
Plywood has at least one side with a solid wood veneer. The veneers are are made from a large log that has been peeled around the edge making thin, but wide pieces. These layers are pressed and glued with the grains facing at 90 degrees. Plywood comes in all types of wood veneers.

Only the outer facing edges are made from the hardwoods. For example your standard oak plywood has either pine, douglas fir, poplar or other fast growing tree as the core. Also hardwood plywood can come with particleboard or MDF core. Prices vary by number and size of knots and by how it is sanded. Plywood can be sanded to an extent and the veneer treated like solid wood for coverings.
OSB is short for Oriented Strand Board. This is made of large particles of wood chips positioned in overlapping directions then pressed and glued together.

This can’t be sanded and does not have a smooth surface when painted and is mostly used as underlayment.
Particleboard is made with smaller particle of softwoods that have been pressed and glued into sheets.

. Often this product is covered with melamine

. This accounts for the majority of melamine board found in hardware stores. This material is heavier than solid wood; however, it lacks grains so warping, expanding and contraction ore for the most part eliminated. Due to the size of particles it does not react well to sanding and shaping. Some downsides to particleboard are it is less structurally sound than wood, it does not paint as smooth, and the wood does not hold up to moisture well. The last problem is fixed when coated with melamine. There are several different processes for applying the melamine.
MDF or medium density fiber board is similiar to particleboard except the size of the particles used are significantly smaller (think cardboard fibers instead of large sawdust). The process of heating, pressing and gluing removes most of natural resins from softwoods that cause problems in reptiles.

This also can be covered in melamine

This is nowhere as near as common as particleboard cored melamine. It is heavier and more expensive. In North America this is typically a special order item and not stocked in hardware stores like Home Depot and Lowes. MDF gives off a very fine dust when cut or sanded and special precaution must be made as it irritates the eyes and respiratory system. It can be painted and shaped similiar to wood. It is heavier than particleboard and can split or crack when using screws.

2. The amount of formaldehyde in the glues
Particleboard and MDF are both indoor only products. They both react poorly when exposed to water. This is because of the glue used to hold the particles together. Formaldehyde is contained within these glues.
Urea-Formaldehyde is used in both these products and hardwood plywood. HCHO or formaldehyde is released from hydolysis or in simpler terms water breaks the glue into two parts, one being formaldehyde. So an introduction of water (liquid or vapor from humidity) without sealer not only can make the product expand/warp, but the glue breaks down releasing formaldehyde.

Solid woods obviously contain no type of formaldehyde so there is no worry there.

OSB and softwood plywood is glued with phenol-formaldehyde. These are made for outdoor use and can resist moisture much better. Phenol-formaldehyde releases about 1% the amount of emissions MDF historically does.

3. Formaldehyde limits by location In America formaldehyde emissions are limited to .3ppm (parts per million) California has formaldehyde emission free policy.
Germany seems to be the strictest county with .1ppm. Norway, Hungary and Australia also all have limitations. As far as I know the UK and China have no such restrictions.

4. Table
Product emissions (one millionth gram per square meter surface area per day)
MDF 17,600-55,000
Hardwood Plywood 1500-34,000
Particleboard 2000-25,000
Softwood Plywood 240-720
Fiberglass Products 400-470



10/23/09  07:48pm

 #2088080


Patches107
View Profile



  Message To: Datsunissan28   In reference to Message Id: 2088018


 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

Whoa, thanks, I appreciate it you guys. This will definitely come in handy datsunissan. And Jbred, thanks, but I’ll find it, but I appreciate it.



10/23/09  11:58pm

 #2088321


Jbreddawg
View Profile



  Message To: Patches107   In reference to Message Id: 2088080


 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

Here’s the link to my Cage build
I like swing doors. They make hardware specifically for it. Some like sliders better and you can buy sliding door track.
Just make sure to have the front lip around 4 inches high or they will throw sand everywhere !! Mine is about 2.5 inches and I have to sweep up sand on a daily basis .
Open front cages let you put your lights on top and not move them. Lights tend to burn out early if you have to touch them everyday. I built my enclosure 30 inches tall so that I can have the lights inside out of view.
Don’t go short, don’t believe everyone who says uro’s don’t climb. They will use every bit of space you provide them with in any direction , even up.



10/24/09  08:06pm

 #2089075


Obi Carl Kenobi
View Profile



  Message To: Jbreddawg   In reference to Message Id: 2088321


 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

heres a pic of my sliding doors and the track. Just cut to size and fit the glass



10/27/09  02:53pm

 #2090983


UROKEEPER
View Profile



  Message To: Obi Carl Kenobi   In reference to Message Id: 2089075


 The Basics for Building a Custom Terrarium?

It’s not just formaldehyde that is a problem.look for products without formaldehyde,petrolium distilites,solvents Also look for zero or low voc materials when building. Many sealers have harmful oils and chemicals....EVEN WATER BASED SEALERS usually have harmful materials. Do not be fooled from a label. Check MSDS sheets before using a product. I am in the process of building my U. Aegyptia an enclosure. I am using formaldehyde free wood. I am also using formaldehyde free,solvent free,petrolium free,ultra low voc ,water based sealer (for the chemically sensitive.). non photochemically reative and can be disposed of in the regular garbage. Best thing is it can be used in temperatures in excess of 300*f. I also have sealer for pourus rock etc.. with the same attributes. They are NOT cheap,however you cannot put a price tag on a life. You may have to check a speciallty eco friendly store. most safe materials cannot be found in your average home improvement store.



11/02/09  10:39am


Back to Uromastyx Forum   Forums   Home   Members Area