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Izsqabe Breezie5353 Izsqabe Jbreddawg Mbwrink Izsqabe Izsqabe Breezie5353 Jbreddawg URO LOVER URO LOVER URO LOVER Izsqabe Jbreddawg Izsqabe URO LOVER Jbreddawg Izsqabe Izsqabe Mbwrink Mbwrink |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Uro not eatting
I bought a Uromastyx 2 weeks ago tomorrow (sat). He hasn’t eaten a thing since and I am becoming quite worried, as he was on the skinny side to start with. He is in a 3 foot wooded viv/setup , the average temperature of the hot spot is 49c with the cool end being 30c. He is going to the toilet but seems to be struggling to do so. He has had fresh greens offered every day, these include the following which I’ve tried giving at different times of the day, changed during the day to freshen, and either shredded, cut into small and large bits, mixed and separately and with/without supplement. Savoy Cabbage, Spring greens, pak choi, carrot, peas, sweet corn, green beans, apple, hibiscus leaves and flowers peppers (red&yellow). dried broth mix (split peas. Lentils etc) has been available at all times, I’ve also tried adding mixed bird seed and millet, dried reptile herbs/flowers to this. I have also offered adult iguana food pellets and can’o’worm (meal worms). He has been left primary alone in his viv to settle in, with only several attempts to ’hand’ feed him by offering different food type right to him. He does spend the majority of his day out and about in the viv mainly basking and wondering/climbing around, but did seem quite lethargic yesterday. Can anyone offer any advice, hints or help with this? Thanks you |
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| 10/09/09 07:05am |
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Breezie5353 View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082093 Uro not eatting
he also may be dehydrated. you can try offering him a small amount of water or try giving him peeled grapes, they are yummy to a uro and have a high water content. you can also remove the mealworms cause uro’s are vegetarians. what was his diet at the pet store? and how big is he? |
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| 10/09/09 08:14am |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Message To: Breezie5353 In reference to Message Id: 2082102 Uro not eatting
49c is around 120f, 30c is around 90 I think. I will reduce the amount I put in to try and get an idea if he is eatting anything at all. I will also try the peeled grapes His diet at the place I got him was pretty much the same as I am offering. I was only trying the mealworms as a last ditch atempt cos I know that Uros can perhaps once a week be offered insects and thought it might entice him to eat. Thanks for the advice |
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| 10/09/09 12:00pm |
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Jbreddawg View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082157 Uro not eatting
Quote: I was only trying the mealworms as a last ditch atempt cos I know that Uros can perhaps once a week be offered insects and thought it might entice him to eat.
If he’s already not doing well, why would you try to give him something that is bad for him ? No, they cannot eat insects perhaps once a week unless you want a sick or dead uro. Try giving him just some simple greens for a few days to see if he’ll start eating before mixing it up. Mine have their preferences and will sometimes pick around what they don’t really like. You may just be mixing in things he doesn’t like and therefor he’s refusing the whole thing. |
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| 10/09/09 12:23pm |
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Mbwrink View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082093 Uro not eating
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| 10/09/09 01:52pm |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Message To: Jbreddawg In reference to Message Id: 2082170 Uro not eatting
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| 10/09/09 02:33pm |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Message To: Mbwrink In reference to Message Id: 2082209 Uro not eating
He is in a 36" x 24" x 20" wooden vivarium with 4 vent holes on the back wall 2 bottom 2 top and sliding glass doors at front. The hot spot average is 120F although it ranges from 105 - 140F, the cool side sits around 80-90F. The heat is from a 250watt ceramic heat lamp in a cage, controled by a stat at the other end of the viv. There is one 24" ReptiGlo UVB strip light 10%, which is suitable for desert reptiles and UVB should reach 20". There is also a heat mat on the hot side, which is set to come on over night but is on a stat at <70F ready for the cold Scottish nights. What else...he is on a play sand substrate at about 4" deep with 1 large hide at the cool side and a smaller one toward the hot side. The basking spot is made from layers of blue and gray slate to form a table. Let me know if you need to know anything else. He looks dreadfully skiny, his back looks sunken and there is no meat on his legs. but he is still coming out during the day about 9am and basking, but is moving around less than he did to start with, and he goes into his hide around 6pm. Thank you |
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| 10/09/09 02:54pm |
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Breezie5353 View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082234 Uro not eating
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| 10/09/09 04:20pm |
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Jbreddawg View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082234 Uro not eating
Quote: I’ve read on alot of forums, carsheets and the reptile shop from which I got the Uro that the occational feed of wax worms, meal worms etc is acceptable as a treat, although not essential. I know to many can cause kidney problems etc. Do you really think its such a big no no?
Yes, it is a big no no. Most information that suggest feeding insects is many many years out of date or people that frankly just dont know any better. Quote: The hot spot average is 120F although it ranges from 105 - 140F, the cool side sits around 80-90F.
Your temps need to actually be stable, not fluctuate that much. that’s probably alot of the problem. Quote: There is also a heat mat on the hot side, which is set to come on over night but is on a stat at <70F ready for the cold Scottish nights.
IF you need night time heat use a ceramic heat emitter. Uro’s will sit on a heatmat or hot rock until they cook their insides. Quote: He looks dreadfully skiny, his back looks sunken and there is no meat on his legs. but he is still coming out during the day about 9am and basking, but is moving around less than he did to start with, and he goes into his hide around 6pm.
If that’s the case, you should really get him to a vet asap. Uro’s can take many months to get into the condition that you describe ,that suggests many many months or more of major neglect by you or previous owner . |
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| 10/09/09 08:17pm |
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URO LOVER View Profile |
Message To: Jbreddawg In reference to Message Id: 2082307 Uro not eating
get a good UV lamp temps in C spot 50-60c air 28-40c(cool and hot end) hot sommer day may it come up to 45c the air just as long as there is a 30c end |
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| 10/10/09 02:37am |
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URO LOVER View Profile |
Message To: URO LOVER In reference to Message Id: 2082392 Uro not eating
DONT USE THAT , uros need light and alot .. thet need light/heat/UV from as one like the sun dont use night heat (the uros wil burn, are are not abel to show down there body) just as it dont get under 15c at night its fine thet live in the stone desert, there some times are minus5celcius at night in winter.... extrem cases for the species that live north , can even be snow in winter.... a healthy uro can easy go 2(and up to 4) month with out food, in winter burmation.. |
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| 10/10/09 02:44am |
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URO LOVER View Profile |
Message To: URO LOVER In reference to Message Id: 2082392 Uro not eating
DONT USE THAT , uros need light and alot .. thet need light/heat/UV from as one like the sun dont use night heat (the uros wil burn, are are not abel to show down there body) just as it dont get under 15c at night its fine thet live in the stone desert, there some times are minus5celcius at night in winter.... extrem cases for the species that live north , can even be snow in winter.... a healthy uro can easy go 2(and up to 4) month with out food, in winter burmation.. |
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| 10/10/09 02:45am |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Message To: URO LOVER In reference to Message Id: 2082395 Uro not eating
I can get rid of the heat mat. It is beneath all the substrate 4" play sand and decor and on a stat to <20c (70f) is there really that much risk of him hurting him self? I just wanted to have a little back ground heat on the other side of the tank from his night hide. I don’t think it has come on overnight yet. Any thoughts on what wattage of heat light I should buy to get the high stable temperture a Uro needs? The temperature variation is throughout the 12hr time the heater is on and I only know the variation so accuratly because I used calibrated scientific data loggers from my work and them plotted the data on to a graph. Would this heat variation not be the same with a heat light? Would that be on a stat too? The shop I got the Uro from is a exotics only shop that have been trading for many years with several shops, the woman who ran the shop I was in had kept Uros for year in the past, and it was the setup she supplied? |
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| 10/10/09 04:29am |
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Jbreddawg View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082234 Uro not eating
Quote: The shop I got the Uro from is a exotics only shop that have been trading for many years with several shops, the woman who ran the shop I was in had kept Uros for year in the past, and it was the setup she supplied?
Is this the same shop you bought your uro from 2 weeks ago that as you quoted : Quote: He looks dreadfully skiny, his back looks sunken and there is no meat on his legs. |
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| 10/10/09 06:32am |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Message To: Jbreddawg In reference to Message Id: 2082408 Uro not eating
Post By: Uro not eating on 10/10/09 at 06:32AM "Is this the same shop you bought your uro from 2 weeks ago that as you quoted" Yes. There was alot of uros in a couple of 4’ vivs, they are wild caught but they have had them 6-9 months in the shop. She did say that I would notice a big difference one he settled in and gained wieght. I emailed to woman at the shop yesterday with basically my first post here, but no response as of yet. I have had a few small amounts of different greens in the viv today and also a small bit of water in one end of a feeding bowl this morning but he isn’t interested. Tried peeled grapes to. It’s my first lizard, which I thought about and researched alot before I purchased, and I am really anoyed that I’ve been sold a lizard in such poor condition. She must have know there were animals in better shape in that tank. After spending close to £450 (>650 dollars) I am really  |
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| 10/10/09 02:38pm |
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URO LOVER View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082513 Uro not eating
what species uromastyx is it?? |
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| 10/10/09 02:51pm |
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Jbreddawg View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082513 Uro not eating
Quote: I am really anoyed that I’ve been sold a lizard in such poor condition. She must have know there were animals in better shape in that tank.
Why did you buy it then ? I’m sure she didn’t put a gun to your head and force you to did she ? YOU must have known there were animals in better shape somewhere else ? Buying a wc from a petstore is the worst move you could make. It will be a complete uphill battle for you. The uro may not survive or if it does never be nice and healthy. If I were you, I would return it right away and do more research before buying the next one. Buy CB from a reputable breeder and you will be light years ahead of the game. |
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| 10/10/09 04:23pm |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Message To: URO LOVER In reference to Message Id: 2082516 Uro not eating
I am going to phone the shop tomorrow and give her a hard time. I would have loved to have bought a CB or even CF animal but CB Uromastyx are not common here at all. I though with the animal being in captivity for at least over 6months they would be in better shape. As to it being illeagal I will look into that, I have seen Uros for sale from big improrters etc and quite a few shops but the law might be different from CF / WC animals. He hasn’t gone back into his hide tonight which I knows a bad sign. With hinesight I would have picked a fatter looking Uro r one that I had seen eat. Or gone for a Desert Iguana. I just liked the look of the Uros and if it was a healthy animal I would have had no bother looking after it. |
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| 10/10/09 04:38pm |
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Izsqabe View Profile |
Message To: URO LOVER In reference to Message Id: 2082516 Uro not eating
Well I had a good look and Uromastyx are on the CITES II list. However this only covers exporters into the EU of these species for most countries, "Permits or certificates should only be granted if the relevant authorities are satisfied that certain conditions are met, above all that trade will not be detrimental to the survival of the species in the wild. " For importers I guess the UK is one of the more stringent countries so requires licenses for importers/traders etc. This I would think will be a case of applying for a license, having a vet sign off against your premises etc. Which I would be in no doubt that this shop would be able to get. But you never know if I might need to keep that card if the shop are not helpful in this matter. Well that was interesting, I will update tomorrow. |
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| 10/10/09 05:19pm |
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Mbwrink View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082532 Uro not eating
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| 10/10/09 05:57pm |
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Mbwrink View Profile |
Message To: Izsqabe In reference to Message Id: 2082532 Uro not eating
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| 10/10/09 06:19pm |
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