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 #171052


FutureCROChunter
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 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Hello, my name is Steven. Im new here, i just got my first Uro 4 days ago, its a Mali Uro and its a girl. She is doing good, eating her greens and being really active. But shes crazy! lol...i can barley hold her, she jsut wants to run all the time. She sits there and class at the front of the cage and i let her out and she darts off under my dresser or behind stuff and i have to move everything to get to her. Why is she like this? And i paid $40 dollars for her, she is a juvie, is that good? AND when i go to pick her up somethimes, she does this weird belly dance thing and wiggles her body, what is that?? And i wake her up at 6am and i put her to bed at 7pm, but she goes to bed like 3 hours too early, why does she do this? Do they go into hibernation or anyting like that? Well thank you for any help you may give me.

Steven



10/27/04  4:44pm
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 #171206


Frocto
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  Message To: FutureCROChunter   In reference to Message Id: 171052


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Hi and welcome to our neck of the woods!
I’ve seen you around on other boards and welcome you to the wonderful world of Uromastyx.
First off, when she wiggles her stomach and tail, it means GET BACK!!!! I’m not comfortable with you right now and I’m about to introduce you to the wonderful little whirls on my tail!
WHen she does this leave her alone, Uro’s can stress easily and will avoid you the more you try to force it. The glass dance is normal, all mine do it.
The going to bed early thing, you waking them up. Don’t waste your time, not being rude but Uro’s are like my Bassett Hounds, they wake, sleep and eat when they want, what they want and don’t care about your schedules or ideas. My yellow U. Geryi goes to sleep around 7pm every night and is awake before the lights come on at 6am. But, they do need to have their lights on for 12-14 hours a day depending on where you live and your temps.
I have one juvenile Mali that does not come out of her hide on her own, I noticed she is very cold when she wakes up/forced to wake up. So I have put a heat source in her tank at night to see if that helps.

Uro’s do not like to be held for very long, if at all. One of mine HATES being held or touched, my male mali tolerates it for awhile but then wants to go hide and get warm, My juvi likes to be held and interacts but prefers to be on the floor walking around us, not being held still. One problem that Uro_fan brought up recently is that a Uromastyx optimum body temp is around 105degrees. If you notice when you pick her up how warm he body feels, after just a little while of being held she will begin to get cold and her body begins to conserve energy.
On the $40 dollars you paid, that is good from my experience, Petsmart charges $99 for theirs, most pet stores $69-$99. I got my female for $36 off the internet, bad experience at first from it though.
Good luck, Trent and Bobbi



10/27/04  9:16pm
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 #171365


Uro_fan
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  Message To: Frocto   In reference to Message Id: 171206


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Steven,

I would suggest reading some posts out here about acclimating new animals. You should try not to handle them for a few weeks or longer if needed. Letting them loose in the house is NOT a good idea. These guys can move fast and can also wedge themselves into the smallest places.

Frocto,

If I said that a uromastyx optimal body temperature is 105F, then I misspoke.

I know that a uromastyx body temperature is higher than most other reptiles and I have heard the 105F figure thrown around quite a bit but I have also heard figures as low as 100. Some research (Wilms) showed cloacal temperatures of 102-113F in active uromastyx and that body temperatures of 118-122F caused deaths in Acanthinura (Moroccans). I have been trying to find scientific studies that show the optimal body temperature of specific species but I have not been successful. I have a convalescing acanthinura that has kept a steady body temperature of 108F for over a month now.
I believe that a potz over 100F is very probably but we do not know conclusively what the actual potz is and whether this figure may be dependent on species.



10/28/04  12:04am
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 #171392


JOANAVOKES
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  Message To: FutureCROChunter   In reference to Message Id: 171052


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Hi Steven,
I am here also....Joan A. You will find a lot people willing to help, but first as we tell most people read through past posts and you will find great info. and probably answers to the questions dancing in your head. Also go to Uromastyx it is a very comprehensive site that will also help answer questions you might have. Uro_fan is always willing to help and Grandma will share her anti-stinker spray with you if you did not purchase any when you got your Uro. I am here to help with things and to add a little comic relief to the mix. Welcome! Joan A.



10/28/04  1:13am
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 #171523


Rcb
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  Message To: JOANAVOKES   In reference to Message Id: 171392


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Uros are not like bearded dragons where there just sit on your shoulder. They are very active lizards often trying to run up the sides of their cages. Is your uro wild caught or captive bred because $40 does seem kind of low. Where did you buy her from?

It is best to leave her alone for 2-4 weeks so she can get acclimated.

Good Luck.



10/28/04  1:32pm
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 #171692


FutureCROChunter
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  Message To: Rcb   In reference to Message Id: 171523


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Thanks everyone! I got her from a small breeder at a CBB EXPO so im really hoping she is captive born. So you shouldnt hold them? or once in awhile? And will she bite me, do they usually bite?

Thanks again,
Steven



10/28/04  7:49pm
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 #171703


Rcb
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  Message To: FutureCROChunter   In reference to Message Id: 171692


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Do not hold them at all for at least two weeks. This gives the uro time to get acclimated to its new home. During this time it will probely try to run up the walls a lot. This is normal,its trying to get back to its old cage. It does not yet realize that this cage is its new home.

During this time you can try to hand feed it. Chances are it probley won’t eat from your hand. Mine has only eaten from my hand once. Hand feeding is a much better way to tame them then just holding them.



10/28/04  8:08pm
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 #171781


JOANAVOKES
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  Message To: FutureCROChunter   In reference to Message Id: 171692


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Steven,
Uros. are not known to be biters. The thing is to let the Uro. get acclimated and start slowly. It might try to tail whip you if it is startled. Joan A .



10/28/04  10:55pm
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 #171790


Rcb
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  Message To: JOANAVOKES   In reference to Message Id: 171781


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

I could be wrong but i have never heard of uros being known for biting. Mine has never bitten me or even shown signs of agression. Egyptians can be a little agressive at times but malis are almost always calm.



10/28/04  11:15pm
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 #171884


Uro_fan
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  Message To: FutureCROChunter   In reference to Message Id: 171692


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

steven,

Although uros are not known to be biters, they can and will bite on occasion.
I have had a handful of biters that bit when they were first purchased and adjusting to their new surroundings. All settled down and no longer bite. When a uro bites, it has a very powerful grip and it will hang on.
NEVER trust a uromastyx when taken outdoors for fresh sunshine. Even some of my seasoned and gentle malis will hiss, show defensive posture and bite when exposed to natural sunlight for awhile.



10/29/04  6:52am
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 #171917


Tec-9-7
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  Message To: JOANAVOKES   In reference to Message Id: 171781


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

*Steven,
Uros. are not known to be biters. The thing is to let the Uro. get acclimated and start slowly. It might try to tail whip you if it is startled. Joan A . *

Mine don’t bite, but they sure as heck lick my hands/fingers when I scratch their heads/chins!

Paul



10/29/04  8:44am
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 #171983


Pogos grandma
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  Message To: Uro_fan   In reference to Message Id: 171884


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Uro_fan,

WHat’s the correlation between natural sunlight and their aggressive behavior?



10/29/04  12:58pm
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 #172004


Uro_fan
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  Message To: Pogos   In reference to Message Id: 171983


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

I really do not know PG.

It certainly does not appear to be body temperature as some people speculate. I have monitored indoor body temperatures against outdoor body temperatures and I do not see any evidence of body temperature being the cause. I will admit that optimal body temperature will make a uromastyx more active and a little more skittish but I have not noticed aggressive behavior because of an optimal (my guess at) body temperature.

I could speculate…
Very few of us are able to provide a level of 250+ uW/cm2 for our uromastyx which is a typical summer uvb level here in Ohio. I am thinking that this higher level of uvb might have something to do with the change in behavior. I tend to see less aggression with lower levels (generally 150 and below) of natural uvb.
One could also speculate that being outdoors could possibility trigger that natural instinct to fight and escape. Who knows, could be a combination of the two of these or something entirely different.



10/29/04  1:55pm
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 #174128


Reptileking14
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  Message To: Uro_fan   In reference to Message Id: 172004


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

i think that the d3 can affect their behaveoir when they go outside, is this true uro fan



11/02/04  8:55pm
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 #174324


Uro_fan
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  Message To: Reptileking14   In reference to Message Id: 174128


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

I am not certain if I understand the question.

Are you speaking of the reptiles ability to manufacture d3 from natural sunlight or giving d3 supplements to the reptile and then exposing it to natural sunlight?



11/03/04  1:13am
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 #174387


Reptileking14
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  Message To: Uro_fan   In reference to Message Id: 174324


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

I mean their ability to manufacture d3 from sun light



11/03/04  8:25am
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 #176211


Uro_fan
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  Message To: Reptileking14   In reference to Message Id: 174387


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Sorry RK, did not see your post until today...

I am not certain if the manufacturing of d3 is directly responsible for the aggression and hyperactivity seen with exposure to natural sunlight. The change in behavior is almost immediate with some animals so I am not convinced that d3 synthesis is the primary cause. I have not seen any research on how quickly a reptile synthesizes d3 when exposed to natural sunlight but I do know that elderly people are less efficient at producing d3 as their skin ages. How quickly d3 is manufactured with a scaled animal or how the presence of d3 in the body affects behavior, I cannot say.

A reptile synthesizes d3 when exposed to artificial uvb light so even though these levels tend to much lower, the production of d3 is still likely taking place. Again, I am not certain (numerous opinions out there floating around) what specific levels are needed for this production and how this level differs between species.

If d3 is the primary cause for this change in behavior, I would think that we would see some sort of similar behavior with those animals that are supplied higher levels of artificial uvb. I do not see any behavioral (aggressive or hyper) pattern with differences in indoor uvb levels (even with my highest levels) but have personally noticed better eating habits with those which have the higher uvb levels in my enclosures.

I guess my opinion is that it is possible that d3 synthesis could play a role but I have my doubts that it is the sole or even primary cause. I tend to agree more with the studies that show the primary cause to be more psychological



11/06/04  8:05am
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 #208052


Uro_fan
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  Message To: Uro_fan   In reference to Message Id: 176211


 Hello, im new & have a few ?’s

Quote from previous post:

"If d3 is the primary cause for this change in behavior, I would think that we would see some sort of similar behavior with those animals that are supplied higher levels of artificial uvb. I do not see any behavioral (aggressive or hyper) pattern with differences in indoor uvb levels (even with my highest levels) but have personally noticed better eating habits with those which have the higher uvb levels in my enclosures."

UPDATE:
Now that I am using artificial uvb bulbs producing over 200 microwatts (uwcm2) of uvb, I HAVE seen aggressive behavior in some of my uromastyx. The aggression seems to subside after several days of repeated exposure.

My opinion continues to side more with this behavior being more psychological than d3 related. D3 is still synthesized (as far as studies have proved with other reptiles) with the lower levels of uvb so if the cause were primarily due to d3, I think we would see ‘some’ aggression with the lower levels.



12/29/04  7:32am
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