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GrandMotherToad   JackAsp  

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 #2284425


GrandMotherToad
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 Anorexic Teenage Toad

Hi,

I have a Marine toad that won’t eat , good large housing, substrate, hides, temps, airflow and humidity. He’s a juvenile, probably wild caught, no doubt stressed to the hilt. I’m giving him his space and quiet, I even covered his tank front with light cloth. Have offered crickets, regular worms, mealworms, nightcrawlers, a nice warmed pinkie...I even tried a high quality organic catfood (I have a couple cats as well) I’m down to superworms, or maybe wax worms???silkworms (I have some canned ones I give my American Toad as a treat) I can understand that he doesn’t want me around when he eats. I understand him being a night feeder...but a non-feeder? I’ve never run into a toad that just would not eat, I like him a lot, loads of presence and toad charisma, and I don’t mind never seeing him feed, trust me I’ve got plenty of other hungery creatures I can watch stuff their faces. He’s neat just the way he is and no doubt if we can get through the feeding thing he and I will become friends. I’m at a loss, I’ve never had to force feed anything, especially a toad. He looks fat and healthy, no fungusy bits, lesions or cloudy eyes. Loves his tub on the warm side, rarely leaves it. Okay, experienced toad people help me by bring to bear all those years of experience : ) I’d love to find somebody who actually owns a Marine toad like mine.
Thanks a bunch



11/02/12  12:50pm

 #2285255


JackAsp
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  Message To: GrandMotherToad   In reference to Message Id: 2284425


 Anorexic Teenage Toad

How are you measuring the humidity? Also, how are you providing the heat?
When mine was still settling in, she did best in HUGE humidity. As in, like, glass or plastic completely fogged up. The only reason I now keep her substrate dryer than I used to is that,
a: she’s so settled into her cage that I trust her to hydroregulate, and
b: it’s an enclosed cage anyway, one of those front-openers like people use for snakes.
Screen-topped aquaria just don’t grant the same humidity to substrate moisture ratio.
Plus, a cane toad breaths air a bit higher up from the ground than an American does, just because of size. That may be a factor as well.
I know it’s blasphemy to say "airflow is bad." And it’s incorrect as well. But, still, the fact that you mention it does make me wonder "how much?" Obviously, you need SOME airflow. But for the settling-in stage, reducing airflow in favor of humidity may be favorable.
Also, as far as hides go, if the toad doesn’t like it it’s just clutter. I commens you for offering choices; I do the same thing and then phase out what doesn’t work. With my own cane, that means pretty much everything. She likes to hide underplants, but has never shown the slightest interest in any sort of cave. If yours does, let him have his cave(s.) If not, get rid of it and give him floor space.
A lot of shy predators do best if they have partial cover. Sitting under a bush as opposed to hiding under a log. I’ve found that plants with small base areas and wide leaves overhead are very comforting to... look, I’ve said "my cane toad" enough times in this post. Her name’s Hengo. It’s quicker to type that. I admit that I have seen Hengo utilize half-buried sideways flowerpots, but she only used them to sit on occasionally when she was otherwise happy. The only times she actually went into them was very early and probably accidentally. Given a choice, she’ll hide under a plant any day.
This raises the point of what kind of plant. Since he’s new, and wild, and not yet tested for parasites, youn should really avoid getting to attached to a particular cage setup. And plants bring nematodes. Nematodes are tiny, usually microscopic worms, and what they feed on changes multiple times furing their life cycle. They usually start out eating soil bacteria, and are often quite beneficial to the soil, so you can expect any plant you buy to have them in the roots. Then they move on to something else, usually bugs. IN any terrarium that has a few crickets or even soil gnats in it, that’ll do. Then, if the dice roll wrong, the toad gets to be one of the acceptable hosts. Both times I had to deworm Hengo, it was because of nematodes.
I do still use live plants, but I soak them in Melafix soution first to kill anyting hitch-hiking in the roots. Thing is: I won’y know for years how well my trick works.
And your toad is a young male, so he doesn’t need quite the head clearance that Hengo does. I say check a dollar store for some tall, wide-canopied fake plants, sort of a fern/palm tree hybrid, and I have a hunch about temps and humidity, but until I know more about room temperature, lighting style, and heat source, I could do a lot more damage by guessing than just by waiting for an answer.



11/12/12  08:45pm


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