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 #2223840


Corn snake
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 Breeding mice, A few questions

I’m going to start breeding mice here soon because of my sav monitor is getting a bit expensive to feed. So I was going to get 18 females and 2 males and rotate them around so it would be 6 females per tub and a male in each and switch 1 of the males back and forth... I know the males stink so was going to try and cut back on em if i could. So what are diff options on feeding? bird seed? cat food? what all will work? I would like to get my mice producing like they should with trying to limit cannibalism if possible. Also will just getting the mice from a pet store work? Because I’m sure they are all related and it will be inbreeding and will that make the litters smaller or anything? Icould probably get females from 1 pet store then get the males from another pet store.. That could work out. Thanks in advance.



06/09/11  08:59pm

 #2223846


Corn snake
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  Message To: Corn snake   In reference to Message Id: 2223840


 Breeding mice, A few questions

I also have one more question.. I work at a pet store.. So I’m used to the stink of mice/rats any rodents, but this is the first time I’m trying to breed mice at home and This will be done in tubs in my bed room.. I have guinea pigs and she doesnt say anything about them.. But is the male odor really that bad? Will she notice it pretty easy and probably get mad about it.. I was thinking I could just load my room up with some air fresheners and things that will keep it smelling good... Would that be able to cover it up?



06/09/11  09:19pm

 #2227766


Cphill58
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  Message To: Corn snake   In reference to Message Id: 2223846


 Breeding mice, A few questions

Quote:

So what are diff options on feeding? bird seed? cat food? what all will work? I would like to get my mice producing like they should with trying to limit cannibalism if possible. Also will just getting the mice from a pet store work?



We have a grocery chain that sells bulk food items and large generic cereal bags. For both my mice and rats I purchase...All cereals listed are generic brands

"Maintain" 37 # dry dog food for 13.95 (no red dye 40)
oatmeal ...sold by the #
cheerios both plain and honey 1 bag each
Wheat / bran flakes
Corn Flakes
Rice Krispies
Puffed wheat sweetened
Black Oil sunflower seed 25# at Wal mart 15.99

I take all this and mix the oatmeal and cereals into a medium sized trash can purchased at Walmart new for this purpose. (looks like a miniature outdoor trash can with lid) I then mix in an appropriate amount of dry dog food and sunflower seed. This will last over 2-3 weeks.

I also purchase a premium mouse / rat pellet from a supplier about an hour away 23.95 for 50# bag. However in the past I went to a horse and feed store that sold various brands and purchased MAZURI by Purina ...very expensive...30.00 and also a local brand (inter mountain) that sold for 15.95 After studying the nutritional values as stated on the tag I find similar dog food to be just as good, as long as no red dye 40 or oxide is present for coloring I am good. The dog food I buy is plain in color ...no reds or yellows...NO DYE..!! Dye is harmful to reptiles in the long run.

The mice will also love bread...I make regular trips to the local mom and pop bakeries and dive into the dumpster on particular days when they throw out huge bags of old bread ...still perfect for my rodents. I have even had some myself if they are not soiled by any other items. Amazing what they throw out...
Occasionally I will offer greens from the left overs not eaten by our iguana and bearded dragons...also fruit. But on a large scale this will not be feasible. Meat is rarely offered , if I do it will be PEDIGREE dog food / wet for .68 a can. I used to buy a wild bird seed mix but no longer ..they wasted much of it and they didn’t eat the millet that I could see.

I used to use tubs/ tanks and had a wheel for each one ...but that was back in the day. Today I use a rack system and gravity fed automatic watering. Wire top within 4" of the substrate prevents a lot of wasted food. Once they soil it they will not eat it.

Males do smell badly and they mark their territory constantly. Pet stores sell an additive for the drinking water to help reduce the odor. I have heard that a few drops of vanilla will help also. My rack system uses small tubs which contain small amounts of substrate. It makes for easy weekly cleaning and lowered costs. I have not used the odor reducing products.

Cannibalism with mice is inevitable.! I have had the hardest time getting a colony going and still if they get stressed or to crowded they will reduce their population. My rats have given me far less trouble and they are prolific.

Try to have only 1 male per 3-4 females ...too many females can cause stress also. Once you get a community going in one tub then you may allow some of the young to grow up and be a part of that community. All the rules can and will be broken over time ...even now I have more than 1 male in a family that was all reared together. However I will always sell the extra males first...or freeze some should they become too numerous.





OLD SKOOL




Give them some egg cartons and paper towel/toilet paper rolls ...they love to play in them and chew them up.




07/06/11  03:38am

 #2296490


Warlock
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  Message To: Cphill58   In reference to Message Id: 2227766


 Breeding mice, A few questions

I understand why the food is better kept above the tubs and not in them but how do the mice/rats get the food?



04/29/13  07:28am

 #2296566


Cphill58
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  Message To: Warlock   In reference to Message Id: 2296490


 Breeding mice, A few questions

With mice and rats they chew the food through the wire / hardware cloth.

For rats I use 1/2" hardware cloth and mice 1/4"

Most food kept in a bowl will get soiled with urine and feces and they will not eat it....just goes to waste. A treat like bread or grapes might disappear fast ...but you know what I mean.



04/30/13  11:51am


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