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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Hopelessly Addicted!
Of course they will grow up to be this:
Arizona Mountain Kingsnake Photos from Link They will be ready in mid August; an excellent birthday present! |
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| 07/01/08 11:51pm |
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SteveOllllO View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1780201 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/02/08 12:42pm |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: SteveOllllO In reference to Message Id: 1780544 Hopelessly Addicted!
It seems every one wants Chihuahua Mt. Kings! Type ll’s really knock my socks off. I think Applegate has some, or may in the coming weeks. About Arizonas:Link About Chihuahuas:Link Applegate:Link I wanted to get mine from a local breeder within driving distance; about an hour away from my home. That way I can establish a more intimate relationship with the dealer and if there are any problems I can visit him for help, ect, or God Forbid GET MORE SNAKES! if I see something I simply cannot resist. We are in phone communication. He’s going to call me when my snakes are available. I will have them shipped; cheaper than a tank of gas now! |
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| 07/02/08 02:19pm |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1780641 Hopelessly Addicted!
This of course, is no Arizona Mtn kingsnake, but she is the same species, just the other subspecies: Chihuahua Mtn kingsnake (Lampropeltis pyromelana knoblochi). |
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| 07/02/08 03:39pm |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1780738 Hopelessly Addicted!
Quote: They’re over 80 days in the incubator at this point, but the eggs look fine.
This of course, is no Arizona Mtn kingsnake, but she is the same species, just the other subspecies: Chihuahua Mtn kingsnake (Lampropeltis pyromelana knoblochi). That is a beautiful snake, Peter! How long do the eggs usually take on average for this type (knoblochi)? What are your plans for the babies? Too bad you are all the way off in Sweden. That’s a long ways from California, for sure! |
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| 07/02/08 04:47pm |
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Lampro View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1780812 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/02/08 08:05pm |
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L.ROY View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1780201 Hopelessly Addicted!
something you know about pyros and that is they are famous for going on long term hunger strikes. usually late summer/early fall but it can vary depending on the individual. there are strains that will eat all year round. check with your dealer about his snakes feeding habits and make sure the babies you want are well started on FT pinks. one time i had an adult pyro that went on a 5 month hunger strike then he snapped out of it after he became skin and bones, after he put his wt back on i traded him off. i’m not trying to discourage you, just thought you’d like to be aware of some things about AZ MTN kings. |
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| 07/03/08 03:51am |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: L.ROY In reference to Message Id: 1781359 Hopelessly Addicted!
My dealer gets his babies well started on pinkies, so I feel confident that they will eat for me. After successfully getting my wild juvenile California king to eat pinkies, I feel I can deal with potential finicky behavior. I first thought Snakezoid had been born this spring, but after learning more about king snakes, I think she hatched last summer and had been eating wild food like lizards for awhile. She’s little, only about 16 inches more or less, she just ate recently so I can’t measure her really well until tomorrow. She would probably be bigger if she had been being fed on a regular basis in a tame situation. As it is, she is growing pretty fast now and has gotten thicker and longer since May 19 when I rescued her. Anything you can share with me about Arizona Mt. Kings is tremendously appreciated! Like I said, I am a neophyte with this snake thing. Getting my snakes from a person I can physically go see in the event of trouble is one of the main reasons I chose this dealer. If you could make a chart of how long a snake should be at what age, that would be most appreciated. Like, how old is a 16 inch California king snake, approximately? And what is the growth rate for pyros? An age per inch chart, so to speak. |
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| 07/03/08 09:23am |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Lampro In reference to Message Id: 1781003 Hopelessly Addicted!
I usually keep one young if there is one I like. The others are either sold or traded for some other Lampropeltis. Lampro I’ve kept these eggs at rather low incubating temps (77-78F) since they are mountain kings and with them lower incubating temps usually are recommended. Within our hobby we usually devide this species into the old four subspecies, but the taxonomic map has been rewritten and nowadays the L. p. infralabialis and the L. p. woodini are considered local forms of the L. p. pyromelana. The Chihuahua or Tarahumara Mtn king (L. p. knoblochi) however, is still considered its own subspecies since it is found on Mexican soil. In my experience the knoblochi is generally not as problematic with food as the other pyros can be, but once or twice I have encountered problems. I had a 2004 born wich never ever ate. I force fed her for about 18 months, but then she died. I keep five adults at this time and they never refuse food longer than maybe a couple of weeks. The little female on my pic refuses rats though and she only eats mice. My other four accept mice or rats without any hesitation.
This is an old pic of my largest Chihuahua Mtn king, he’s about 4 feet. |
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| 07/03/08 09:49am |
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L.ROY View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1781473 Hopelessly Addicted!
unless you don’t mind them going thru self imposed brumation. about charts, that would be too much for me and i never keep track of weights or lengths. i do have a eastern-X-flori that is over 5.5 ft and is only 5 yrs old so go figure.
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| 07/03/08 12:20pm |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: L.ROY In reference to Message Id: 1781643 Hopelessly Addicted!
Do you think the shorter daylight hours may also influence the cycle of brumation? |
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| 07/03/08 06:57pm |
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L.ROY View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1782064 Hopelessly Addicted!
but i don’t force brumate mine, some of mine do it on their own anyway regardless of time of year or temps. as for shorter daylight hours i dunno, like i said b/4 i don’t intentionaly brumate mine plus i like the option to breed at anytime of the year. something about artificial brumation: if it’s that good why do so many hobbyists have nice snakes die during brumation? and if they only had a pair of a certain kind then they sell the remaining one because they don’t want to breed it to anything else? brumation is good for saving on food but their is nothing natural about captive brumating and hobbyists are foolish to try to mimic nature anyway, a captive life and a natural life are as different as nite and day. there is nothing natural about keeping snakes in boxes/tubs/cages even if you have hi-tech thermostats or fancy looking habitats. |
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| 07/03/08 07:52pm |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: L.ROY In reference to Message Id: 1782143 Hopelessly Addicted!
1. it is probably better to let the snakes call the shots on when they want to brumate, keeping an eye on them of course. They have internal clocks that tell them when to do things. If when fall rolls around and they act like they want to brumate, I will let them, but not force anything on them. They are of course going to be babies anyway, so any breeding is at least two years away. I’m not in a big hurry with that. I have a lot to learn just managing what I have before I jump into the complexities of breeding. 2. Maybe wild snakes also die during brumation, like if the weather fails to warm up early enough in the spring or temperatures are too severe in the winter. It’s unlikely we would find a wild snake tucked away in a granite outcropping in the wilderness who expired from the duress of prolonged brumation. The ants would eat it and there would be no body. So when they brumate this is a delicate time and they need to be watched for trouble, as I see it. Not just go away and ignore them. . |
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| 07/03/08 11:11pm |
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L.ROY View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1782368 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/04/08 12:39am |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: L.ROY In reference to Message Id: 1782457 Hopelessly Addicted!
Quote: that is a interesting post, i thought you were a newb, h-mmmm??? maybe i’ll start asking you questions when I need help. i’m glad you’re here.
Thanks, L.Roy. I am glad to be here, and feel so welcomed. Oh, I am a newbie, rest assured! I will be asking many questions and throwing out ideas and theories for feedback as my snake keeping project progresses. By the way, I found this fascinating article: Link I don’t know what it is exactly about my snake that resonated so deeply with me, but this article touches on some likely parts. |
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| 07/04/08 10:51am |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1780812 Hopelessly Addicted!
First one out, pretty large one too if you ask me.
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| 07/04/08 04:08pm |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1782902 Hopelessly Addicted!
Quote: greatballzofire
First one out, pretty large one too if you ask me. Holy Cow! Or should I say Snake! What a beauty! You must be just saturated with bliss!
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| 07/04/08 05:41pm |
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Lampro View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1782902 Hopelessly Addicted!
Quote: If when fall rolls around and they act like they want to brumate, I will let them, but not force anything on them.
I never brumated any of my snakes till last year. I moved them down to my basement where they had low temps of around 50-55 degrees. I also provided a hot spot of 95 to all of them. So, they did have their choice of what they wanted to do. Out of my 12, only 3 shut down, both my knoblochis and my one male Cali. |
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| 07/04/08 05:44pm |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1782902 Hopelessly Addicted!
1. How soon after hatching should pinkie food be offered? 2. Are the neonates in danger of dessication? If so, how do you prevent that? 3. How many pinkie feedings should a neonate receive before it is offered for sale? 4. How soon do they shed after hatching? |
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| 07/04/08 07:24pm |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1783048 Hopelessly Addicted!
1. Hatchlings usually refuses food until they have had their first shed, wich occurs somewhere between 5 and 14 days after hatching. 2. I’m not sure if I get you on this one, but if you mean suffering from dehydration - no, that’s not common, but of course hatchlings must be offered fresh water from day one. 3. I usually feed them at least three times and wait for their second shed before selling them. Selling hatchling snakes that have not been eating is unethical, but unfortunately there will always be one or two people doing this at any fair you attend. I bought a couple of hatchling knoblochis at the Terraristika Hamm fair in Germany back in 2004 and these two snakes had obviously never been fed. I eventually managed to start the male up, but the female never ate by herself. I had to force feed. I went on doing this once a week for 18 months, but then she died anyway. 4. See answer #1. |
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| 07/05/08 03:13pm |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1783624 Hopelessly Addicted!
I am needing to know what to watch out for with buying baby snakes and this helps me a lot. More photos of your hatchlings would be nice, when you find time. What I meant by dessication was dehydration, like because they are so small they could dry up. But if they are willing to drink water from the start, they shouldn’t dry up. I had read somewhere that drying up was a problem for some neonate reptiles, but I can’t remember what species now. |
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| 07/05/08 05:42pm |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1783721 Hopelessly Addicted!
Yeah, that was my guess, but I think it’s spelled "desiccation", but I’m not at all sure of that since english is not my first language. I keep my hatchlings in rather moist conditions compared to the older ones. I usually use moist peat moss for substrate the first couple of months. Later, I mix sand and gravel in and cover the mix with dryed fern leaf clippings, also letting the substrate dry up some. This here is the second hatchling out, nice arrowhead shaped marking on its head I think.
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| 07/06/08 04:31am |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1784219 Hopelessly Addicted!
Sorry its a bit fuzzy so enlarged. I need to find where I put my fractal program. Anyway, this is truly unique! I’d keep this one for sure! |
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| 07/06/08 09:04am |
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Weecreekers View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1784287 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/06/08 09:58am |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1784219 Hopelessly Addicted!
This is the fourth and last one out, this one too is equipped with the arrowhead marking on its head. |
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| 07/08/08 05:14am |
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Weecreekers View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1786708 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/08/08 08:33am |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Weecreekers In reference to Message Id: 1786760 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/08/08 09:37am |
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Greatballzofire View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1786708 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/08/08 10:18am |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Greatballzofire In reference to Message Id: 1786833 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 07/08/08 10:26am |
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Peter54 View Profile |
Message To: Peter54 In reference to Message Id: 1786813 Hopelessly Addicted!
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| 08/02/08 02:44pm |
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