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 #2288680


Sandboaking
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 Feeding issues

So my male hog has been having some issues lately. He’s over six months old and a great feeder. So, about 3 weeks ago he started regurging. He did this twice, and now he won’t eat. I’m just trying once a week. I’m going to try increasing his heat, but what else can I do?



01/02/13  10:27am

 #2288772


Iloveluchi
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  Message To: Sandboaking   In reference to Message Id: 2288680


 Feeding issues

i had this problem with one of my corns. he seemed to be doing fine when he got to fuzzies from pinkies, but i ended up having to cut the mouse because it was just to big for his body to handle. he would eat it but then regurgitate. when i started cuting the mouse in half and giving him both halfs i never had the regurgitation problem again.



01/03/13  01:00pm

 #2288791


Sandboaking
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  Message To: Iloveluchi   In reference to Message Id: 2288772


 Feeding issues

It’s just crazy! I didn’t even give him anything big. I’m not really sure what the problem is.



01/03/13  04:28pm

 #2288897


Iloveluchi
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  Message To: Sandboaking   In reference to Message Id: 2288791


 Feeding issues

i didnt think mine was big either but APPARENTLY it was.



01/04/13  09:46pm

 #2293717


JackAsp
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  Message To: Iloveluchi   In reference to Message Id: 2288897


 Feeding issues

Heat is a big concern, and so are parasites. Even if you’ve done everything perfectly, something he was exposed to before you got him may have finally acheived critical biological mass. I have a vet who’s really good about just doing twenty dollar poop tests. If the animls’s okay, great, he didn’t even have to go to the vet, nor did I have to pay for a full appointment. If something turns up, then as long as the vet knows the animal’s species and weight (for little snakes you need a digital gram scale) then she’ll simply prescribe the medicine and give me enough to get by. Very, very rarely I have to actually buy a bottle of soething, but usually there’s a leftover bottle from another patient that still has enough to take care of a snake or toad or lizard,so she just gives it to me.

Most of them won’t do that from square one though. If you have access to a herp vet, try to seriously stand your ground on just the stool test. The receptionist will probably try to strongarm you into a full appointment, and if the test comes up positive, you might have to do one to get the initial prescription. To make sure you aren’t lurking around the street corner selling Flagyl and Panacur to schoolkids. But once you’re in the system and the vet knows you they tend to be more than happy to make both their life and yours easy by just saying "Here, take this leftover half-bottle of Albon."

Other things worth mentioning:

I don’t know how you’re heating the cage or what the perimeter temps are like, but this time of year night-time temperature drops can be a problem for hognoses. These days I keep mine in an enclosed front-opener, but back when I used a tank she had strip-lighting for photoperiod, which didn’t make for any confusion about substrate temperature. She had an undertank pad, with a dimmer switch so it wouldn’t be too much of a good thing, and then she had a LOT of substrate depth to help find the exact perfect spot. Plus, she had two layers of heavy box cardboard duct-taped to the back of her tank in case of drafts from the wall-side.

Puking takes a lot of electrolytes out of their system. Pedialyte or any generic Walgreens-or-whatever equivalent is very helpful. Even if it’s mixed 50/50 with water it will convey the benefits. Put just enough of it in a deli cup to cover the bottom, put the snake in attach the lid, and allow about 40 minutes for it to soak into the large intestine. Don’t worry about drinking. The snake has a water dish to drink from 24/7, but it is actually the large intestine that absorbs water, and the large intestine really does not care which end that water came from. And the snake’s back door is pretty much at floor level, so, just keep it simply and don’t try to give a stressed-out land animal a swimming lesson.
When I first got my hog an was getting her through hookworm problems, there was one occasion where she puked, I weighed her, and then gave her an electrolyte bath. She not only gained a few grams back (yes, after she was dry!) but she also maintained that weight for like a week afterwards. Hydration is sometimes more complex than "just add water."



03/13/13  10:01pm

 #2293973


Sandboaking
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  Message To: JackAsp   In reference to Message Id: 2293717


 Feeding issues

I just pulled him out of brumation and I’ll try a tiny pinky next week. The temp is a constant 80 at all times. I have balls and redtails too, so nighttime drops aren’t allowed here. I did hear that about soaking them like that, but I didn’t know it worked. I’ll try that to keep him going if he doesn’t take off well. I was told he is a cb snake, and he was eating f/t fine, but I guess parasites can come from anywhere



03/18/13  08:06pm


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