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Synesthete   KrazyKelli   Ashmash   Lpolikmjunbhygtvfrcd  

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 Golden Gecko Problem. Any ideas?

Hello all. I recently adopted a golden gecko from a not-so-great situation. It was in a short 20 gallon with no light, heat, etc, and hadn’t been eating. The owner had it 4 months and it seems to be healthy still. It isn’t shedding in pieces, isn’t skinny, has clear eyes and vent, bright colors, etc. However, I have had it for a month now, replaced the nasty tank with a clean, fresh tall 30 gallon with a heat/light on one side, and gave it more natural hides and feeling. I put a few crickets in, but they were never eaten. I tried again over the past few weeks many more times, but the crickets were never eaten. Three times, I have put a small dish with baby food bananas and strawberries, but have seen no sign of it being eaten either. The three mealworms left in overnight were uneaten as well. The gecko doesn’t seem to have lost weight, but I can’t tell that it’s eaten a single meal since I’ve had it. I am starting to worry about it. Also, it never comes out from its little dark corner, even at night. When I first redid the tank, I had to pick it up. The owner said it was mean and awful and should be handled with gloves, but the little guy just climbed up on the hand I offered underneath it and was fine. It isn’t 100% lethargic, as it does freak out when scared accidentally.

Basically.... Any tips on getting it to eat?

08/06/10  03:01pm


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  Message To: Synesthete   In reference to Message Id: 2167526

 Golden Gecko Problem. Any ideas?

Try to put something in the center of the tank, like a vine or something stretching across and leaves coming down from it. Currently it’s ’one big hidey place’ separated by ’another big hidey place’ with a small bridge, but also a huge gap right in the center where predators can get it. Optimize arboreal space. Tape a grocery bag (or cardboard) on three outer sides of the tank to promote seclusion. And keep the tank in an area without much traffic, as well as away from any windows.

See a vet, get a fecal sample done. Most golden geckos are wild caught/farm bred and therefore full of parasites.

You did good by getting a bigger tank and by trying out different foods. Instead of putting three mealies in a dish, put 10 to 15. One wrything wriggly mass of mealies. Make sure the dish is see-through and has slick sides (I use a party cup) and put it either under the lamp or near the gecko hiding place (or both).

Then, outside of the vet visits, feedings, and mistings, leave the gecko alone and give it time to settle in. Healthy golden geckos will flee from your hand if you reach in to grab them. They wont normally sit there and accept being picked up or anything. If your goldie is just sitting there and letting you reach in to grab it, it may be sick or extremely stressed out. Or both.

If the gecko is constantly dark and not a bright, vivid golden color, it’s stressed out.

Sadly, the golden gecko is reknown for being stubborn. Mine took two to three months before he settled in enough to come out of hiding. And he refused to eat for most of that time. Another goldie owner in long-forgotten RZ history had to force feed his goldie for a year before it came around. I had to forcefeed mine as well, due to the sheer number of parasites he had and how he refused to eat. The vet will show you how to do it properly. Otherwise, if you’re ever forced to force feed, I recommend superworms as the primary option, popped into the mouth tail-first. You only have to feed one every other day, instead of many crix or mealies, and that reduces stress. However supers are not a full-time food item, as, while nutritious, they can also be a little fatty over time. If you’re going to stick to the dish, stick to mealworms.

And that’s all assumptions. Many goldie owners have their goldie refuse food at first, but not all have to go to dramatic measures to save them. Sometimes, if left alone and with tons of places to hide, the goldie will settle in on its own time.

Lastly, as for fruit, be careful what fruit you offer. Avoid highly acidic stuff, as it can upset the goldie’s stomach. Stick to starchy foods like bananas, and things like aprocots and mangos (in baby-food as an option). Stay away from berries, red apples, oranges, and stuff.

This is my general tank set up. I’ve changed it a ton over the years, added and removed things, but the large central branch thing is still there. Every once in a while I’ll scout my yard for fresh tree branches (avoiding cedar and pine) and put them in there, then wrap live pothos around them. Sade loves that.

I’ve also, over years, trained Sade to either eat exclusively from a dish, or take the mealies straight through the mesh lid. Once in a rare while I’ll reach in there with a super and he’ll come up, grab it, and run off with it.

08/08/10  03:38pm


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  Message To: Synesthete   In reference to Message Id: 2167526

 Golden Gecko Problem. Any ideas?

I agree with Kelli. The new tank looks great, but more leafy stuff will help. Also, how’s the humidity in the cage?

I’ve got 2 goldies, each in a 20 gal tall covered in plants, fake and real, sticks, and they each have a pot that’s held up off the ground to hide in/around. one has been trained to eat from a dish and the other is hand fed through the lid... one hides all the time and has times were he doesn’t eat anything and the other will climb on the glass or under the lid and let mama know it’s time to feed him! Haha.

Besides the heap of mealies you can try about 4 superworms. My guys LOVE superworms. just try not to feed too many or they’ll make him fat.

08/20/10  11:11pm


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  Message To: Ashmash   In reference to Message Id: 2170667

 Golden Gecko Problem. Any ideas?

don’t give it baby food MASH BANANAS

02/11/18  09:54am

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