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Golden geckos   KrazyKelli   Golden geckos   KrazyKelli  
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 #1975189


Golden geckos
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 Golden gecko help

krazykelli this is zip chew 2 im back and hi chris



03/26/09  06:13pm

 #1975219


KrazyKelli
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  Message To: Golden geckos   In reference to Message Id: 1975189


 Golden gecko help

Yo. So what do you need help on?



03/26/09  07:08pm

 #1975789


Golden geckos
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  Message To: KrazyKelli   In reference to Message Id: 1975219


 Golden gecko help

I thought you kicked me off reptic zone. So I waited until it let me back on reptic zone to get back at u.
Umm my gecko isnt eating crickets anymore. His temps are between 70 and 80 degrees. She has a twenty gallon cage. Do you need a pic. And anyway im sorry.



03/27/09  08:52pm

 #1975842


KrazyKelli
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  Message To: Golden geckos   In reference to Message Id: 1975789


 Golden gecko help

Why are you making more than one thread? =P I’ll help you here. And no, I don’t have the power to kick people off; I’m a normal member. Doug, the guy who owns this place, is the only guy who makes those decisions as far as I know. I do report threads from time to time with the fancy ’report’ button at the bottom of each post, but it’s hit or miss if Doug actually removes them. That and I have a terrible memory, so I don’t know what you did wrong.

The temps may be too cold. Bump them between 86 and 88 on the hot side. I’ll need to know how big the tank is (probably again, since you were on before) and the general setup. Also gotta know where the tank is located and what you’re using for a thermometer.

It’s a temporary measure, but go to a garden or home improvement store (like Home Depot) and get some cheap, small see-through plastic bowls with high sides. They’re usually used to put flower pots in, but you need to get one with higher sides than the regular ones so the bugs don’t crawl out. Link (the one that says ’basket liner’ is the general type I use.) Next, get some superworms. They’re like mealworms, but much bigger. They’re also not only more nutritious, but more fatty, so this is why it’s a temporary measure. Put two in the cup, and put the cup in the tank under the lamp so they move more. Do this towards the end of the day when the goldie is waking up. When you do it, leave the room alone for an hour or two. The movement should encourage the gecko to strike, though there’s a chance he may go at the sides of the dish first and therefore take longer.

You only have to feed one super every other day. I said two at the beginning because it’s more movement - therefore more motivation. You need to keep superworms in a critter keeper (like you’d keep crickets in), and treat them like crickets. They’ll need to be kept at room temperature and need something to eat that’s humid, like gel cubes or a cut up potato. If the conditions are too dry, the supers will eat each other. Once the supers are gone, switch either to mealworms or crickets, and try to keep them in the same dish.

If the goldie still isn’t eating after the temp increase and the feeding change, go see a vet to rule out a big parasite infestation. If the goldie is ridiculously thin to the point that you can see his bones, then see a vet more immediately.



Once I know the tank conditions, setup, and type of thermometer, I’ll be able to pinpoint other things that could be changed.



03/27/09  10:47pm


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