Your Reptile and Amphibian Resource and Information Site

Frilled Dragons Forum

Click Here To Register and Become A Member Of The RepticZone Family  

Back to Frilled Dragons Forum   Forums   Home   Members Area  

Bro23   87rx7chick   87rx7chick   Bro23   87rx7chick   BenjiTheFrilled  

 Member  Message


View Profile

 New Owner, have some questions, looking for someone to advise when in need help

I have had my frilled lizard for three weeks. The tanks seems to small after doing some research... it is a forty gallon tank. How long until i should upgrade?

The pet store told me to dust crickets with calcium everyday... I do it for every cricket, is that too much? I feed them to Bro (thats his name) with my hand. I do not use any other supplement, should I use a vitamin supplement, what kind, how often?

Bro is warming up to me. i started by petting his chin and under belly, and have slowly eased him into being held. Is there anything I can do to train him? I want him to be very social. Is there any danger for him being out of his cage too often because of climate?

How often does the cage need to be cleaned, and should I have someone hold him while I clean it, or do I put him somewhere? Does anyone have any suggestions on an area outside the cage that can be used to play with him in the open? Like a play pen but for lizards?

At what age should I start feeding him cat food with vegetables? What types of vegetables, how often, and should this be fed to him in addition to crickets or meal worms, or replace those meals?

Thanks!!! If anyone is especially fond of providing advice, i’d very much like to get in email correspondence so I have an advisor to go to when I have problems. I am really trying to do whatever is necessary to ensure Bro has a healthy, happy, and comfortable life.

04/04/11  04:47pm


View Profile

  Message To: Bro23   In reference to Message Id: 2212915

 New Owner, have some questions, looking for someone to advise when in need help

first off start buy reading this forum. go into each and every thread and read. there is some really good information here.

is this your first reptile? frilled dragons shouldnt be for beginners. they are very emotional and sensitive to their surroundings and scare easy , so be mindful of that.

you said you have had him 3 weeks but you didnt say how big he was..... 40 gallon tank isnt good for an arboreal frilled dragon. a glass tank with screen top is not ideal for high humidity reptile like a frilled dragon

tanks are just not that great for arboreal high humidity reptiles at all.

feeding by hand is great. make sure your feeding him enough, you wnat his belly very round and plump . that means he’s eating enough!

each frilled dragon is different. some are very social some are not. just respect the frilled dragon as he ages and if you see stress (hiding and not eating and staying dark in color) then back off on handleing for a while. they do go threw "puberty" and seem to get really moody in their "teens"

your frilled dragon’s tank should be 65-85% humidity for several hours out of the day. your enclosure should be 80-85 degree gradient with 105-110 basking spot. if your tank is cooler then this then its not ideal for a frilled dragon. humidity can be achieved by using tin foil on top of the enclosure and covering up much of the screen. temps can be achieved by using several 50 watt hallogen lamps "par20" (small hallogen)

uvb should be provided in an 18 inch liniar fluro tube. not a screw in compact fluro. buy a fixture from walmart for 7$ and buy the 18 inch tube for abotu 23$ and your set.

you can take him out and let him roam around the house for several hours as long as he’s not stressed. but make sure his enclosure is the proper temp for him to return to.

at what age should you start feeding him cat food with vegies?

who told you that!?!?!?!?! thats a huge NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

animal protien is not what frilled dragons need. animal protien could be bad for them..... not good at all!!!!!!

i feed dubia roaches, horn worms, crickets, super worms, and some collard greens to those who will eat it.
i use "repashy" brand vegi dust and mix it with phosphorus free calcium with D3 added. be carefull with vitimin powder, you should be using it but i have noticed huge issues with over doing the vitimin powder like, twitching in legs and swollen neck from to much vitimin suppliment. so i use repashy brand vegi dust instead of what you can buy at pet stores.

i dont mean to be mean i am just trying to give you proper information quickly and bluntly! please ask all the questions you’d like and every one on here will give you great info!!!

make sure you use alot of climbing branches. and a good substrate like cocohusk mixed with repti-bark, those 2 together work great, neither of them work great by themselves. so use both!!!

im sure your frill has a good home. its not your fault you got bad info from the pet store :(

dont forget to READ READ READ!!! expecially posts i made and threads i started!!!

04/04/11  05:54pm


View Profile

  Message To: 87rx7chick   In reference to Message Id: 2212925

 New Owner, have some questions, looking for someone to advise when in need help

for got to add


frilled dragons love water, use a plastic container like a food storage container for water. fill it up and dump it once or 2 times a day, they will poop in their water, also crickets at night will drown in the water. let them DIE! you rather them be drowing then chewing in your frilled dragon

if you use coco hustk with reptibark substrate, you’ll just have to toss the substrate once or 2 times a week. a substrate change should be done once a month or so. if your frill always poops in his water, then you wont have to change the substrate as much

dont keep the substrate soaking wet. you should be misting once or 2 times a day to keep humidity up. but let the substrate dry out well. spray it down really good once or 2 times a week but let the substrate dry out inbetween. if its to wet, it will grow mold and bacteria. so letting it dry out is a good thing. you can let it dry out, but still keep humidity up for a few hours a day by mising the branches inthe enclosure instead of just the substrate.

the more brancehs the better! holds humidity better!

just spot clean when you see something dirty. and change water as soon as you see it dirty

the easiest way to get a parasite problem and cause health problems in a reptile is to not change the water when it needs to be changed. their poop has bad things in it, and if they drink their poopy water they will get to many parasites...

some are ok, lots are dangerious!!! parasites are normal in reptiles. but to many is nto a good thing!!!

04/04/11  06:01pm


View Profile

  Message To: 87rx7chick   In reference to Message Id: 2212925

 New Owner, have some questions, looking for someone to advise when in need help


I did get a lot of horrible information from the pet store, but I assumed that would be the case. I have since taken Bro to the vet who says he is in good shape, a little thin so I think he may have worms since he eats a great deal. I’m taking in a stool sample today.

I purchased some phoenix worms, the vet said to give him one to two per week, but many online say to feed them often? His staple diet right now is meal worms, crickets, cale, and carrots.

The lighting, temperature and humidity all seem fine. I purchased the only UV light that seems to meet his requirements... repti something...I forget but its the right one. Cage temp is at a steady 80 degrees with a basking area of 100 degrees constant... humidity is usually at 50 an twice a day gets up to between 65 and 80. I just put in a backing that is supposed to grow moss, its called terra terrain. He loves it, climbs all over it, but I have no idea if it is something that could potentially be a threat... does anyone know?

I obviously need a bigger cage... and quick! But I can’t find any that meet his needs and really wouldn’t know where to start to make one... does anyone have any suggestions? I want to give him the most space possible, but would like to keep costs reasonable.

Thanks for all the help!

04/12/11  05:02pm


View Profile

  Message To: Bro23   In reference to Message Id: 2214106

 New Owner, have some questions, looking for someone to advise when in need help

making one is easy and alot better then using cold glass.

your enclosure sould be ok for a little while but as he grows you’ll need to build another.

here is a link to a forum where i posted the information you need to build your own enclosure

i dont check this forum often so if you have any questions you can just post up back here. it’ll help people if you update this thread but just look at the other one. i dont follow that other one at all

04/14/11  02:41pm


View Profile

  Message To: Bro23   In reference to Message Id: 2212915

 New Owner, have some questions, looking for someone to advise when in need help

A custom enclosure for your frilled dragon is probably your best bet. That way you can make sure your frilled has all the right amount of space and height needed. Frilleds like to climb, usually dangling their back legs. They each have their own personalities, so for anyone to say there’s way to tame your frilled.. they’re wrong. The only thing you can do is handle your frilled once a day for 5-10 minutes, that’s not to say your frilled will be "tame" though.. that’s just to get him/her use to the environment and your scent. Try not to make sudden movements around your frilled, it stresses them or makes them nervous. They also have very, VERY good eye sight. I found my frilled does not like my dogs or cat, but does not mind people. I feed my frilled mealworms (super worms) around 5 a day.. Ive been reading on these forums of people saying mealworms aren’t "as" nutritious as crickets, but I disagree 100%. Crickets have to be "calcium dusted" for a reason... if they were any type of good for your frilled, why would you have to add calcium? Crickets are the BigMac of the frilled diet.. while mealworms are like steaks. Feeding your frilled a variety of foods is always good.. Anywhere from dubia roaches, horn worms, silk worms, and some vegetables, to pinkies and other small mice or rats (make sure your frilled is big enough first). I have a waterfall available for my frilled to drink, because I found leaving a water dish in the vivarium, he only would make a mess and poo or pee in his water dish.. I found with the water fall he doesnt poop or pee in it, and I just put napkins in his waterdish so he can poop on the napkin and its easier to remove the nasty stuff. I clean his entire cage once a week.. (even the rocks inside the water fall because they become slimey after a couple of days) I use vinegar and water when wipping down his cage.. than rinse it with water to get the vinegar smell out. I do not use substrate (my frilled is only approx. 5 maybe 6 months old) I use a reptile carpet, that I clean once a week also. Reptile carpet is not only easier, it makes the cage more clean once you’ve finished cleaning it.. and you don’t have to spend money every month buying new substrate.. However, once my frilled gets his new custom vivarium, he will be on substrate, preferably Repti Bark mixed with Plantation Soil. I’ve read a lot of peoples forums about humidity, but I do not agree with the "high humidity" factor. I put my frilled in a container once for 10 minutes, the humidity became high and I could tell my frilled was under a lot of stress by how fast he became breathing.. so my personal experience, lots of humidity is not good, but also NO humidity is worse. I found with my waterfall the humidity level is perfect. You must make sure you have the proper temperatures for your frilled’s vivarium. My frilleds basking spot is around 130F degrees, but hes rarely ever in his basking area (probably because it’s too hot).. and his cold spot is around 80F degrees. But where he normally hangs is around 96F degrees. So I’m assuming thats the temperature he prefers. I don’t care what anyone says, you could be an experienced reptile owner or a beginner.. owning a frilled is a learning experience no matter what.. you’ll always learn new things about your frilled, and some things will be unusual because no frilleds are the same. If you experience any problems, your best bet would be to take it to a specialist who specializes in reptiles and amphibians.. or to bring it to a vet who specializes in reptiles. Don’t google stuff like that, because it could be a serious issues, and people on forums like these or google think they know everything, when in reality they could just be talking out of their smiley, excuse my language. I’ve only owned my frilled for about 4 months now.. I’ve learned a lot and I feel like I’m still learning as my Frilled grows more and more. I worked at a Reptile/Amphibian pet store, I owned ball pythons, leopard geckos and stuff before I got my Frilled, and even with my experience WITH frilleds previous to owning my very own, I still learned new things about my Frilled. And will continue to learn. My Friled dragon completes me.. he is the best pet I’ve ever had, I adore him. He makes me laugh everyday. He gets hyper in the morning, running around making messes with his water.. and sleeps in weird positions the rest of the day. Ou and I have my lights on a timer.. 12hrs of light; 12 hrs of night. Make sure you have the proper lights and wattage.. Ask your local EXOTIC pet store about the appropriate wattage for the size of your enclosure. You don’t want to fry your frilled. I keep mine on a 75-100W basking spot lamp, and a 75-100W UVA/UVB light. A UVA or UVB light is essential to the development of bones..
Hope my input was of some sort of help to a new owner of an amazing Frilled Dragon. :) I hope you also enjoy your Frilled as much as I enjoy mine. My advice for anyone looking to own ANY new pet, is to research, ask local pet stores who are educated on the pet you’re looking into.. and get any type of helpful tips from anyone you know who owns it themselves. And don’t worry if you’re frustrated.. experience is the best wisdom you can gain. Goodluck!

12/24/12  09:12pm

Back to Frilled Dragons Forum   Forums   Home   Members Area