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 #2233197


Meejee
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 Collared Lizard Shy?

Hello. My collared lizard is the sweetest lizard. He licks you, jumps around his cage, run on 2 legs. He is always active! But i have a question. Why isnt he eating right? my collared only ate 4 things when i got him, 2 crickets and 2 superworms. He just licks it a few times and just turns away.Also i have this drop bottle called Reptile Deit. it says it Increses Reptile Deit. can i use it?? Please Help Me!

8/18 this morning he ate a mealworm! yay.



08/18/11  07:35am

 #2233338


Meejee
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  Message To: Meejee   In reference to Message Id: 2233197


 Collared Lizard Shy?

PLease help me!



08/19/11  03:31pm

 #2233339


Meejee
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  Message To: Meejee   In reference to Message Id: 2233338


 Collared Lizard Shy?

http://lizardswooner.weebly.com/ new web page!



08/19/11  03:32pm

 #2233372


Kelso reptiles
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  Message To: Meejee   In reference to Message Id: 2233339


 Collared Lizard Shy?

this is going to sound disgusting but
what you can do is grab the cricket or meal worm and take off the head the sqweez it gently so the guts come out just a little then rub it on the nose of the lizard and he will lick the guts then start going crazy
this is how i got my mali to eat mealworms



08/19/11  07:28pm

 #2233437


Meejee
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  Message To: Kelso reptiles   In reference to Message Id: 2233372


 Collared Lizard Shy?

ok i will try that. I am a girl but i am fine with guts and such. thanks for the info



08/20/11  08:05am

 #2233801


Meejee
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  Message To: Kelso reptiles   In reference to Message Id: 2233372


 Collared Lizard Shy?

I did the method this morning. i came back and both his mealworms were gone! i think he ate a couple crickets to. Also is it a bad sign if he is under his log alot? he goes under there alot, and sometimes stays there a long time. Any other methods to get him to eat. Thanks for the help!



08/22/11  04:55pm

 #2234669


JackAsp
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  Message To: Meejee   In reference to Message Id: 2233801


 Collared Lizard Shy?

The only concern with hiding is whether or not the log is an appropriate temperature. I rpovide lots of space, lots of temperatures, and they can be hidden or out in the open, whichever they want.
Describe your setup, and if you don’t have an infrared digital tempgun, it’s the best 30 or so bucks you can spend for a reptile. because without it, discussing what part of the cage is what temperature is complete random guesswork. I have yet to hear from anybody who bought one, tested all the little spots, and said "Yup, everything in the cage was exactly what I thought it wold be based on my looking at the little strip thermometer on the tank wall and then adding random numbers to warmer spots." There should be cool-off areas in the 80s, some of which are hidden, at least one open basking area of at least 105, and a hidden cave of about 105 as well (usually the cave is the inside of that basking spot,) plus many of them favor a small much hotter hot spot of about 135, but you still can not sacrifice the cooler areas, which is where it all gets fun. Personally, I favor large screen-topped cages, with sand to keep the ground temperature fairly stable, and elevated basking spots so that I don’t have to blast quite as much bulb-power down to ground level and overwhelm that stability.



08/28/11  01:49am

 #2234737


Meejee
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  Message To: JackAsp   In reference to Message Id: 2234669


 Collared Lizard Shy?

Thanks i will keep that in mind. i got him new bulbs 2 days ago. He is now out all the time! i think he had the wrong bulb. His old bulb was 75 watts. Thanks for the help! also can you feed superworms and mealworms avacados?



08/28/11  02:19pm

 #2234975


JackAsp
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  Message To: Meejee   In reference to Message Id: 2234737


 Collared Lizard Shy?

Probably not a good idea. It’s not reccomended for iguanas, due to its fat and phosphorus content, and when I choose gutload vegies I basically just pick a good iguana vegie (kale, collard greens, zuchini, etc) and usethat as the insect’s only moisture source. Collards are, by preference, largely carnivores. Sometimes entirely. But they have omnivorous digestive systems, so what the bugs are eating does matter. I don’t worry about that as much with, for example, my cane toad, because she can’t digest the vegies in them anyway.
Also, superworms die very easily if they get too wet. Boring through hunks of avacado would probably destroy their respiratory system.
This is also why stories about them eating out of the lizard’s stomach are absurd. A mealworm can live underwater for a few minutes, but supers drown ridiculously easily, even from just being placed in a wet food dish. Supers are a bit too fatty to be used as a dietary staple, but when nothing else is appealing to the lizard they do tend to be a favorite, so due their awesome shelf-life it does pay to keep a few around.
Crickets are actually better than either worm, but if it’s a shy animal that isn’t eating them before they hide then sometimes dusted mealworms are better, just because it’s easier to make sure the lizard eats them. Plus, they go in waves sometimes, where for a while they’ll get burned out on one bug and want another.



08/29/11  10:38pm


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