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Derek32   JackAsp  
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 #2194493


Derek32
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 Manyy questionss

hi, i am a huge reptile enthusiast and currently have a red orange translucent bearded dragon, green iguana, chinese water dragon and a larger red flamexcitric beardie whom is being rehomes for aggression issues. i was looking into russian tortioses, plated lizards and collard lizards. i had a few questions about collards. do all of them get the nice colors? one of the petstores near me has a few(the store i got my iguana from) and they didnt seem to have color although it isnt the best pet store. . .

can they be handled regularly like beardies,tame iggys,tame water dragons??

thankss



12/26/10  10:52am

 #2197018


JackAsp
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  Message To: Derek32   In reference to Message Id: 2194493


 Manyy questionss

All the ones in pet shops are wildcaught. Some locales are drabber than others, abd females are more likely to be drab than males.

How tame a stressed animal of an extremely active species gets is variable. CB ones are great though. I don’t even do anything to "tame" hatchlings. I just feed them one bug at a time, at progressibely closer ranges, and by the time they’re a weel old they’ll eat from my hand and by a month they’re running up my arm to try to figure out what I AM! I’ve bled from wild-caught specimens, but I only get a couple of bites a year from CBs, and they’re usually for a good reason. When Nino hatched, he got scared and bit me when I took him out of the egg tub to move him into the nursery tank. The first time Chica laid eggs, I went to work while she was down there, and assumed she was finished when I came home that night, and dug right down at tried to uproot what felt like an egg. My bad. It was a nose, and she bit me. When they were very new, I got paranoid about whether Lupe had escaped somehow or was just taking a siesta in their cave, which was one of those half-log hides that I’d buried, except the ends, under the sand, Since I didn’t want to pull it up and bury her, I poked a finger in there, and got bitten. I also got bitten by Lupe the first time I got tired of her chasing Pancho, a healthy but small aqua-phase male away from food and started doing interferance with my hand whenever it was his turn. The first time she bumped into my hand, she stopped, thought about it for a second, and then gave me a very definite "Take THAT!" nip. But the thing is... not only did none of these bites from CBS draw blood.... they didn’t even HURT! They seem to have to make a conscious effort to really, really bite. If they’re wildcaught, they’ll make the effort, because you’re a huge unpredictable monster just like all the coyotes and roadrunners and assorted other Acme predators that they’ve seen their friends devoured by. Otherwise, simply making the point that you’re annoying them sems to be sufficient.

You can’t hold them quite like beardie... usually. Some are happier to sit on your shoulder or head for longer periods of time than others. Go to a dollar store, buy a brightly colored fishing hat, and they can be trained to ride up there for... reasonable periods of time. But they do like to jump down and explore. And when they are down there, they are fast, and unpredictable. So you need a lizard-safe room. You don’t want them climbing onto another cage and getting fried on a heat lamp, or going into a huge pile of clutter, getting lost and cold and lethargic in the dark, and becoming impossible to find. But as long as you can keep track of them, they’re great to take out. They’re still approachable even when intent on running around. You can sit down by them, physically interact with them, but the longer they’re out of the cage in a warm bright room the more they’re going to want to do things. On a good day, they’ll pick something and go with it. Lupe, for example, wanders around the living a bit but always returns to wanting to take running leaps onto furniture and then sit around proudly. You can walk over to the chair and pet her while she’s up there, but as soon as you move her she’ll want to run back over and jump up again. Honestly, most days, I find it a lot less hassle to just keep them in big cages and leave them there. Handling them for 1 or maybe 2 minutes is usually easy. For 5 minutes, often easy, especially if an official brightly colored "Lizard hat" is involved. For 10 minutes, probably not. By that time, they’re revved up for about a 45 minute play session.

It wouldn’t surprise me if WC bearded dragons, not that there are any on the market, were just as hyper as collareds. But they’ve been CB for a LOT more generations. For example, of my original breeding trio, only one had a single CB parents. But it’s more than psychological, I think. Water dragons and iguanas are more arboreal than collareds. Oh, collareds like to climb a LOT, but they don’t go straight up a thin object all that often. So to them, humoring you for a few minutes and then looking for a shelf or bed or chair to explore is just a better fit, physically.

That’s still talking about CBs, of course. A pet store collared might just want to get away from you at all costs, depending on what’s happened to it before you arrived. Calmness in the store means nothing, because, among other reasons, 10 gallon display tanks don’t provide enough thermal gradient to make the warm end as warm as it’s actually supposed to be.

If you do opt for one, I suggest waiting til spring. Failure to thrive is at its worst during the winter.



01/08/11  01:22am


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