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 #2153838


Ktmrider37
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 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

ok so I just got a collard and it is the most beautiful lizard I’ve ever seen if I can post pics later I will.. I had quite a bit of questions though since I have never owned a collard just many other lizards and ANY information is helpful!!!

1. are they poisenous?! so if I get bit by it will I die or something?(highly unlikely I know)
2. how can u tell the sex? could someone maybe post a pic of a male and a female... if it is a
girl she looks very gravid!
3. temperature? basking temperature?
4. I’m pretty sure I’ve got it all dialed but what food should I be giving him? what do you recommend?
5. does he need a water dish or will he get his wTer from his food?
6. if it is a girl and she is pregnant how hard is it to raise the children?
7. how big do they grow to be?

by the way it’s stomachs is about 1.5" wide and an inch tall. the body itself is about 4 inches long and tail is around 6".

thank you so much for our time and effort it is very much appreciated.



06/07/10  12:21am

 #2154374


Jared T
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  Message To: Ktmrider37   In reference to Message Id: 2153838


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

Yellow headed collard lizards are very spectacular.

I don’t know much, but i sure found a website that does!

SunCharmers

Show some pictures!



06/08/10  09:16pm

 #2154627


Ktmrider37
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  Message To: Ktmrider37   In reference to Message Id: 2153838


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

ell I’ve found out more about my lizard that I’ve yet to name... it’s a C. Bicinctores and he (I’m pretty sure it’s a
guy) eat almost anything! it’s fun to watch him eat I tried meal worms but he doesn’t like them too much since they barely move he loves chasing crickets though and every now and then as a treat I give him a fly or two that’s trapped in a window it’s amazing to see him catch it outta mid air he is temporarily in a 15 gallon but I am getting a 20 gallon within the next few days. he is very very friendly he doesn’t try to bite or run away he loves crawling up onto my shoulder and even on top of my head where he can see everything. he is also quite a jumper! he has not eaten from my hand yet which I’m still working on. I’ve also tried to ge him to eat some shredded carrot and a little lettuce but he is uninterested in food that doesn’t move. so if anyone can give me some more information that’d be great thanks.



06/10/10  02:47am

 #2154950


JackAsp
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  Message To: Ktmrider37   In reference to Message Id: 2154627


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

I wouldn’t waste money on a 20. 40s are usually available, with screen included, for not much more than the 20 plus cover runs, and they give him WAY more activity options. The 20 only increases his floor space from 2 square feet to 2.5 square feet, but the 40 increases it to 4.5, while allowing much more headroom as well. They can actually do a real jump from one end of the cage to the other, you can put a lot more props in there while still leaving room for a straight run all the way through, and it buys you some margin or error as far as temperatures go.



06/11/10  02:05pm

 #2155279


Ktmrider37
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  Message To: JackAsp   In reference to Message Id: 2154950


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

oh ok.. thank you Im goad you told me or I woulda ended up wasting m money haha... he’s getting very friendly and lovess eating his cricketts I only put them in one ata time though to make sure he gets them n the don’t pester him. can someone recomend lighting? I got a pamphlet from petsmart but... it’s petsmart... the same guy who gives u info or reptiles also works the register and bags fish and sweeps... not very reliable... kinda like wikipedia



06/12/10  07:42pm

 #2155350


JackAsp
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  Message To: Ktmrider37   In reference to Message Id: 2155279


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

It depends on cage size, cage height, cage setup, individual lizard behavioral preferances, overall room temperature, and also overall room lighting. But.. here’s what you need:

A floor temperature close to 90. Whether 85 or 89 is "close to 90" enough depends on the lizard, with some even favoring minimums in the lower 90s (not suggested though; way too much risk of accidentally getting TOO hot!)
At least one basking area that is consistantly 105-115 degrees.
And.... this last one is often debated... but you also want some small much hotter spots.

As you research collared lizards, you will learn to revere Eve Panis, who runs the Suncharmers.com website, as a goddess. You, however, are NOT a goddesss, nor, last time I checked my shorts, am I. Eve is very attuned to each individual lizard, and gets great results with her "105 hot spot" rule. But she’s her, and most people are not. My original breeding stock came from Jeff Roseberry, who uses a mpore idiot-proof system, with at least one basking spot in the 130s. If the4 lizard wants to bask at 105 instead, it can sit a few inches from the 135 spot... or on a different perch entirely, depending on the setup. YES, 105 is a great general-purpose basking temp. But what I keep seeing is lizard after lizard preferring WAY higher morning temps, and then shifting down toward milder and milder basking spots as the day progresses. In the morning, I’ve had the "supposed to be 135" area run into the 150s... and STILL seen the lizards prefer it.

Speaking as a professional cook, I do not interpret this to mean that the lizards are raising their body temperatures higher. I think they want a quick surface-warming, WITHOUT over-heating their internal organs. You’ll notice that gaping is most common in the morning, because their, for example, heart, needs a lot more warming than their brain. Hotter temps allow them to angle themselves around xontrol specific body areas without oveheating peripheral sections... and any time they want a slower, more even basking temp,hey that’s still an option.
OK, that whole ramble done...

You need at least one strong basking light. If the room is under 80, you’ll probably need TWO strong basking lights. Fixtures need to be ceramic, with reflector shields around them. Bot only do the plastic ones not hold up to high temps, but I recently had my first cage-light catch fire. It was one of those black flexible "reptile lamps" from Petco. Oh, it was past warnety, but still... it was just dumb luck that it was a day I was sleeping in and the noise woke me up!

You also should have a UVB light. The short answer about UV is that "UV light" means nothing unlesss it specifically states "UVB." Nor does "Ultraviolet," "UV," "UVA," "Reptile," or "Full Spectrum." Making a UVB bulb costs extra money. If they aren’t specifically bragging about it, then they’re just selling you a light bulb with a picture of an iguana or turtle on the box.

And... I haven’t really gotten to my opinions on the various types of UVB lights... but it’s late and I’m tired. So I’m gonna quit while my typing errors are still salvageable, and get back to you when I’m awake again. My own prefereance is rigging a closet bar above the tank, not only to make screen removal easier but also to allow use of Mercury Vapor UVB lamps on adjustable chains... but somtimes there are cheaper options and MVBs themselves also have some quirks that infuriate a lot of people who don’t know what to expect with them.



06/13/10  01:37am

 #2155419


JackAsp
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  Message To: JackAsp   In reference to Message Id: 2155350


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

"Desert UVB" strip kights with arating of 10.0 will provide enough UVB, but not much heat. If the room is over 80 anyway during the day, then you can use one of those plus a heat spotlight. For cages where the heat lamp is not also the UV source, I like Reveal lightbulbs, from Home Depot, which give off a very bright natural-looking spectrum that stimulates more natural behavior than most other lights. Bear in mind that you’ll want a smaller strip light than you’d use for, say, a fish, because you still have to leave room for the heat lamp.
You can also use two spotlights, one hotter than the other, and at most room temperatures I actually find that to be easier to work with. In that case, one will need to be either a Mercury Vapor UVB or a compact fluorescant UVB. For the other one, just use a Reveal. You might have to play around with different wattages before you get all the temps just right. A lot of people completely change their lighting/heating system a few times a year, as the weather gewts warmer or cooler.
Some of the cheap compact brands have been implicated in eye problems, so you might want to do a web search on any brand you’re about to buy. With MVBs you don’t have that problem, but they do have a minimum safe distance, so they tend to need to be hung above the screen rather than just set on top of it. You’re better off doing that anyway,since it makes it easier to get in and out, plus they have a somewhat annoying safety feature where any time you jiggle or tilt them they shut off for fifteen minutes, so putting it where it stays put solves that problem. (They also shut off temporarily if they overheat.) The best brand is Mega Ray, but to be honest they’re all serviceable as long as they’re not used too close-up.



06/13/10  02:21pm

 #2155487


Ktmrider37
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  Message To: JackAsp   In reference to Message Id: 2155419


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

alright thank you! I decided that instead of buying him a tank I’m going to make him one. how do these dimensions sound? and about how many gallons is it? : 4’ long 1’ wide and 1’ tall? also does anyone know how to bread or mate cricketts? he will eat them like we eat rice! hahaha. I’m still having trouble with telling the sex though? I’m prett sure he is a guy but last night he went into this hide cave I made for him and when he finally came out this morning he was skinnier than normal but when he is all fat it’s because he is puffing himself out n stuff but hecould deflate at will?????? help?



06/13/10  07:53pm

 #2155536


JackAsp
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  Message To: Ktmrider37   In reference to Message Id: 2155487


 Brand new AMAZINGLY colored collard and NEED HELP!!!!!!!!

I’d go wider and taller. Some of them will jump against the top too much if it’s only a foot high, but if it’s a foot and half or more then you can leave about five inches empty at the top, still have plenty of stuff to climb, and although they’ll still be able to jump all the way up they won’t hit with as much force so it’s not a big deal. Also, the narrow turnaround width is why 55 gallon tanks, for example, often have very stressed occupants. Think at least 3 feet long (longer is even better, of course!) at least a foot and half wide, and at least a foot and half tall.

Nowadays i keep my breeding trio in a big display cage that has a hinged wooden-framed mesh top. This gives me a lot more flexibility on their lighting and heating than I would have if I used a front-opener with internal light fixtures. However, one drawback to home-made cages that’s worth mentioning is that if your cage has a wooden frame crickets can climb right up and escape.

Cricket-breeding is more trouble than it’s worth for collards, because even a hatchling can eat crickets that are already a couple weeks old.. You might want to just order them from a wholesaler already half-grown. I usually pick up a thousand at the local herp expo, but a lot of people do get them by mail, and even with shipping it is WAY cheaper than trying to fill up a collared-belly at pet shop prices.



06/13/10  11:06pm


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