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Hog CClark Hog |
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Hog View Profile |
ETB question
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| 08/01/08 02:29am |
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CClark View Profile |
Message To: Hog In reference to Message Id: 1815578 ETB question
Next, well before you get the snake, at least a month in advance, get the set up ready and test run to make sure you can maintain proper environmental conditions. Size the cage to the snake. You don’t want to put a 2-4 month old or yearling in adult caging. They will "feel" insecure, which will probably lead to a problem feeder from the stress. Make sure your perches are completely removable, this way you can remove the snake from the cage on the perch, reducing the stress and avoiding damage to both the snake and you. If the snake is beyond the yearling stage, you will need to set up a means to have a DTH and NTL for both temp and humidity. The easiest method to accomplish this is to have all heating run through a proportional thermostat that incorporates a night drop feature. If you have been doing your homework, you should have the correct information about temps and humidity. Feeding is a critical issue with emeralds as they do not have the metabolism of some of their cousins. Meals should be no larger than the biggest girth of the snake. The schedule that works for me is: neonates through ontogenisis are fed every 10 days, from ontogenisis to about 1-1/2 years they are fed every 14 days and depending on growth, they may go to a 21 day interval. I follow a "no more than 3 meals with out a bowel movement" rule. It may be necessary to take them outside for a go round on the jungle gym while being lightly "rained on" with the hose to stimulate a bowel movement. These are the general things I follow that have worked for me for the past 10 years and since emeralds are the only species I keep and breed, my opinion is that it has been successful. Craig |
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| 08/01/08 11:45am |
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Hog View Profile |
Message To: CClark In reference to Message Id: 1815822 ETB question
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| 08/01/08 01:43pm |
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