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Green and Brown Anoles Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Anoles

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.88    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 08/28/2005

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Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years


Green and Brown Anoles

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Green and Brown Anoles

Sexing and Characteristics:

Male anoles are usually bigger in size than female anoles.Male anoles have a bigger dewlap than females and are more territorial. If you look at the underside of male anoles you will see two enlarged scales that look kinda like buldges. Female anoles have a grayish white line running down their back and are more docile than male anoles.

Mostly Active During:


Substrate and Water Needs:

Before I get into talking about substrates and water let me tell you that it is a necessity to have a 10 gallon aquarium for each anole. for example if you have 1 anole you will need a 10 gallon aquarium at minimum. If you have two anoles you will need a 20 gallon aquarium and so on. For the substrates you will need non toxic plants or fake plants will do just fine. You will need branches and wood for the anoles to climb on. Try to make the anole habitat like a tree kinda habitat with many fake or real plants and wood or branches. I wouldn’t recommend using real branches and log because they may carry parasites or bacteria that could be harmful to your anoles. If you do want to use real branches or logs boil them first to kill all or any parasites or bacteria. For water spray the anoles cage three to four times a day. You should spray not only to keep the humidity up but because anole cant see water in a bowl they don’t drink out of a bowl. Anoles can however see water on leaves or branches or the sides of your cage. You should provide a water dish to keep the humidity up.

Lighting and UVB:

Lighting for your anole is very important. It is highly recommend that you provide your anoles with a UVB light because this resembles natural sunlight. It also helps them process vitamin D3 and calcium which they really need. At night provided them with a purple or blue light, it is not a must but I did it for their benefit to keep night temperatures high; it resembles the moon light.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Temperature is very important to your anoles heal and well being. In your anoles cage the cool end of their cage should be between 80-85 degrees F. On the warm end of your anoles cage the temperature should be between 86-95 degrees F. The humidity in your anoles cage is so important. The humidity should range between 70 and 85%.To create and keep the humidity at this level you should provide water in a water dish and mist the cage three to five times a day. High humidity for anoles help ease the shedding process and for their overall health.

Heating and Equipment:

DO NOT USE ANY HEAT ROCKS!! Heat rock can cause severe burns. If you want to heat up the cage use heat pads that you can place under or on the sides of the cage. You will also need to buy a screen cover to keep your anoles in the cage.

Caging Provided:

I provide my anoles with a forty gallon aquarium with a screen cover. For substrate you can use repti bark cage carpet or paper towels. DO NOT USE SAND. SAND CAN CAUSE IMPACTION WHICH CAN KILL YOUR ANOLE/ANOLES!!



Description of Diet:

There are many insects to feed your anole. DO NOT FEED YOUR ANOLE ANY INSECTS FROM THE WILD THEY CAN CARRY PARASITES AND PESTICIDES. Food you can feed your anoles are crickets fruitflies silkworms butterworms and mini mealworms only as a treat though. Mealworms are hard for reptiles to digest because of their hard exoskeleton. Waxworms can cause a fatty liver disease which can lead to death also. Do not feed your anoles any food that is bigger than their head and NO WILD CAUGHT INSECTS!!

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

You need to dust your crickets and worms with vitamin and calcium powder two to three times a week to boost up the nutritional value. This will help with your pets skin and other health needs. They need these vitamins in order to live a long healthy life. To dust your anoles food you can take a plastic sandwich bag put the calcium and vitamin powder in the bag then add the insects. Then shake gently until the insects are fully dusted.


You need to watch out for any left over food Live insects can bite and harm your anole if left in your anoles cage. Take out all uneaten food for your anoles safety. All droppings and feces you also need to take out for your anoles health. Do this every day. Once a month you need to take your lizards out and clean the cage very well. Don’t use windex or any ammonia based products. Don’t use soap, and if you do rinse VERY well with hot water. To clean the glass, use a solution of water and vinegar to remove the stains. Let it all dry and put back all of the objects that were in the cage in the same spot also. If you don’t it could cause stress changing your anoles cage around many times.

Some Words on this Species:

Anoles are a fun and interesting species to watch and care for. Don’t handle your anoles. Anoles are not a pet to cuddle they are for watching only they can become stressed if you handle them. Other than that they are great. And if you don’t want to take the time and effort to take care of a creature don’t buy one.
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The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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