Care Sheet for PythonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 04/06/2005 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | Pythons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Craig.a.c |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Stimsons python - Antaresia stimmsoni |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Childrens python - Antaresia childreni, Spotted python or maccie - Antaresia maculoses. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | As with most pythons the best way to determine their sex is by probing. This involves inserting a blunt surgical probe to find the presence of the males reproductive organs, (DO NOT attempt this if you are inexperienced). Another way is by comparing the size of the snakes tail and spurs, males generally have bigger spurs then the female.
Hatchlings can be snappy at times and bite anything that moves in front of them. With regular handling of the snake they will get used to being handled and become very placid. But like all animals they do get cranky at times. By watching the snakes body language you may determine if it is in a good mood or not. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | There are a number of different substrates that can be used. The ones that I have found to be easy to use are: News paper plenty around and easy to clean up after the snake. Breeders choice kitty litter is made from recycled paper and comes in small pellet forms, also very easy to clean up after the snake. And there is also fake grass, looks great as well.
All ways have a fresh bowl of water in the enclosure for the snake to drink from, it should also be bigger enough for the snake to soak itself in if it wishes to do so. |
Lighting and UVB: | Kept in a room that gets plenty of light from morning to night is fine. As for UV, take the snake outside for 30 minutes a week. More then any UV lights with give them. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | The basking end of the enclosure should be 28c - 30c with the cool end being 25c - 28c. It is very important to have a temperature variation in the enclosure as snake need to regulate their body temperature.
Humidity levels are best around 25% - 40%. To much humidity can cause breathing problems for the snake, and if the humidity levels are to low then they will have trouble shedding their skin. |
Heating and Equipment: | For heating use a 100watt ceramic heat lamp. They give off plenty of heat and no light to disturb the snake. Make sure that what ever heating equipment you are using is plugged into a thermostat. |
Caging Provided: | As this breed of snake is small (rarely being any bigger then 1 meter), an enclosure of 2ft long, 2ft deep and 1.5ft high is bigger enough. All snakes like to hide so give them a hide box at both ends of the enclosure. They are semi arboreal so a branch for them to climb on is important. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Start the hatchlings off on thawed or fresh killed pinkie rats. Offer the hatchling food every 7 to 10 days. As the snakes grows increase the size of the rats. A general rule is that after the snake has eaten and you can’t see a bulge in its stomach, then it isn’t eating enough. If the food item is to big then snake will not eat it. Don’t worry they can’t choke on their food. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | |
Maintenance: | Handle the snake every 2 - 3 days so they are used to being picked up, except after they have eaten. They will regurgitate there food if they feel threatened. Clean the enclosure once or twice a week. |
Some Words on this Species: | Really good snake to get for a first snake as they are small and can be handled with ease. |
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