Care Sheet for Mountain Horned DragonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.64 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 01/12/2005 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Mountain Horned Dragons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | FroggieB |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Acanthosara species - Mountain Horned Dragons |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Acanthosara armata
Acanthosara capra
Acanthosara lepidogaster
Acanthosara crucigera |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Sub-adult & adult males are easily identified by their pronounced hemipenal bulge. |
Mostly Active During: | N/A |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Soft moist substrate such as the shredded coir fiber work best for MHDs.
Water if essential for drinking, soaking and shedding. Moving water is needed if the dragon is to use it. |
Lighting and UVB: | There has been some debate between some keepers concerning the need for a UVB bulb since these animal are forest dwellers, but I believe that a good UVB bulb should be used to make sure they can produce the needed vitamin D3.
UVB UPDATE: Some hatchlings have developed a slight curve in the back just before the tail and through the ribs in when raised without regular dusting of food items with calcium supplement. This curve has not progressed since replacing the UVB bulbs and in some instances has shown slight improvement. Also, a hobbyist who purchased two of my babies was using a regular aquarium tube and although one of her dragons looks fine the other developed a sever hump in his spine just before the tail and the tail had sever kinks at the base. This condition progressed until the animal had to be put down. Based on these occurrences I do believe that a UVB is necessary for Mountain Horned Dragons
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Temperatures and Humidity: | Temperatures: Mid 60s F by night and upper 70s F by day.
Humidity: 70-75% |
Heating and Equipment: | The Mountain Horned Dragon needs daytime temps in low 70’s to low 80’s Fahrenheit. I recommend plus/minus 78° F daytime temperature and plus/minus 72° F at night. Temperature should never exceed 84° F and I would not allow mine to drop below 70° F. Although many people set up all reptile tanks with a heat rock, it is not needed for MHDs as they are tree dwellers and won’t use a heat rock. Likewise a basking light is not necessary as MHDs live in the forest and would only be getting filtered light in nature.
The needed equipment for an MHD are:
A vivarium that will hold about 75% humidity.
A good UVB bulb and if needed a simple light bulb to keep temperatures at 65-70 F at night and 75-80 F during the day.
A water dish large enough for your dragon to soak and swim.
Humidity device such as air pump and bubbler and a hand sprayer, foggers are optional but appreciated.
Lots of branches, vines, plants for climbing and hiding. |
Caging Provided: | The Enclosure should be a minimum of 130 cm (4 feet) high, 100 cm (3 feet) long, and 50 cm (1.5 feet) deep. The larger the better! If keeping more than one Mountain Horned Dragon (MHD) this should be increased to allow each to establish his own territory.
MHDs require a shady rain forest setup with flowing filtered water. Provide thick vertical branches and plenty of foliage in order for them to feel comfortable. Since these are territorial animals you should keep no more than one male per enclosure. Several females can be kept together with each male as long as there are adequate vertical branches so that each may stake out his/her own branch.
It is recommended that MHDs be provided a large area of moving water where they can drink and swim. They will not pay attention to water unless it is moving, therefore there should be a pump/filter combination, a waterfall, or at the very least an air stone to keep the water moving. A waterfall system or a stream is the best type of "water bowl" for MHDs.
The humidity should be 70-80%. Water and humidity are extremely important, as MHDs will dehydrate easily if proper moisture is not provided or if they are not visiting the water area. There are several methods that will help in obtaining the proper humidity levels. You can use a fogger set on a timer to produce fog at dawn and dusk. The animals really seem to respond well to this and have fewer problems with sheds. Misting daily is also beneficial in increasing humidity and improving sheds. Use of high humidity plants such as pothos, some of the dracaenas, ferns, bromeliads, orchids, and other epiphytic plants will also help to maintain the needed humidity and provide hiding places for the MHDs. Try to choose sturdy plants as the MHDs will climb anything they can.
There are several good types of bedding that are good for this setup. The ground coconut bedding is excellent as it holds the moisture well without getting muddy or overly soggy. This is what I have had the best results with. Some keepers have used bark with good results, but this is more difficult for the MHDs to dig in. You can also use potting soil that is free of perlite, foam pellets, and fertilizer, but this will produce a lot of mud if you keep it too wet. MHDs love to dig and these types of soil help increase the humidity. A good test of moisture is to squeeze a small handful of substrate. If it clumps it is moist enough but if water drips from it then it is too wet. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Mountain Horned Dragons are completely insectivorous and will eat most of the commonly available feeder insects. Adults will eat dusted superworms, crickets, roaches, silkworm pupae, moths, and earth worms with the silkworm pupae and earth worms being their favorites.
My MHDs actually feed best on earth worms, which can be purchased pretty inexpensively at any bait shop. I offer one every day. I feed earth worms by dangling the worm in front of the dragon or on the branch in front of it or by placing 2-3 night crawlers per animal in a feeding bowl. If they are interested they will start smacking and licking their lips. My males eat an earth worm every other day or so but my females eat at least one daily. The best part about earth worms is that they are rich in Calcium so you won’t have to worry so much about dusting with calcium, just an occasional sprinkle and because of the high water content they help with fluids as well. When I first started breeding there were problems with the shell of the eggs being deficient in calcium, but since I have started feeding earth worms the eggs are all well calcified. For variety I continue to offer roaches and other insects
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Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Dust all insects except for earthworms and red wigglers with Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-All I (indoor formula) once weekly. |
Maintenance: | If you decide to buy a WC MHD select an animal that is climbing rather than lying on the floor. If the animal is active, tries to run or jump, the skin doesn’t look like its too loose, & it has a good general color, not extremely dark brown to black that would be the one to select. If the skin is dry with little flakes of skin hanging on it is probably dehydrated and is not a good choice.
Make sure to get the vivarium ready before bringing your MHD home.
Most dragons that are sold in pet stores are wild caught & are usually stressed & in poor health. The females are often laden with eggs and many die egg bound or shortly after laying their eggs. It is not uncommon to find your new Mountain Horned Dragon is spending most of the time on the floor of his enclosure not eating or taking water.
Your first priority should be to find a vet who is familiar with small reptiles. Then, find a fresh fecal sample and have it checked for parasites. It is almost a guarantee that these will be found have high gut load of various flukes, nematodes, worms, and other parasites. Bacterial infection is also a possibility. These can usually be determined through a fecal exam. If fresh feces is not available because your MHD has not been eating, it will be necessary to take the MHD to the vet. They can do a cloacal smear where they swab the cloaca for a sample to determine what parasites are present. Though examination your vet can also evaluate your MHDs overall condition and determine if it is dehydrated.
While treating for parasites I recommend using paper towels or newspaper for substrate so that you can keep the enclosure clean and sanitized. If you have a gravid female who has parasites, you will need to use a soil type substrate, but make sure you change it frequently to avoid re-infecting the MHDs. I also recommend raising the temps to 80-82° F while caring for a sick MHD.
While treating for parasites the MHD will possibly have to be force fed and hydrated. I would give some pediolyte or one of the reptile electrolyte drops. Don’t over-do it, just enough to fill the mouth a couple of times a day. You can also try soaking your MHD in warm water or pediolyte. This is most easily done if you use something like a critter keeper that has a lid so your MHD can’t climb or jump out. Use lukewarm water, and remove the MHD when the water starts to cool. If you put a towel around the container so he can’t see out he will stay a little calmer and this will help to reduce the stress.
A nutritious food for force feeding is high protein strained meat baby food mixed with a little mashed banana and powdered vitamins and thinned with fruit juice or pediolyte or Gatorade.
Remember though, by the time it is obvious that a reptile is ill it is already near death. It is best to have your reptile checked as soon as you get it home and follow up with periodic fecal exams to keep him healthy.
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Some Words on this Species: | A. armata: STL: m-275-305 mm (11-12 in), f-250-270 mm (10-10.5 in). A. armata have fine long horns on the curve of the eyebrows & occiput that reach almost the height of the nape crest. Crest is initially the same height as the nape crest & consists of long fine spines. There may or may not be a small break between the dorsal & nape crest. Back colors are varying shades of greens and browns over laid w/lacy pattern of black (male) or dark brown (female) scallops. The lighter underside can be green, brown or reddish. Male is almost fluorescent green color, female changes from a very dark olive or rust to brighter but muted soft green. A. armata is flighty & feisty. A. armata lacks the mask of the other A. species & has more defined rays around the eye.
A. capra:Total length: 305-380 mm (12-15 in) Habitat: the tops of the large rain forest trees. A. capra has 2 horns behind the eye lacking the second set of spines on the occiput. Tall nape crest separated from the dorsal crest. Both consist of lanceolate scales the bases of which are broader than in the other A. species. Horns & crest can be very long & showy in some animals. Predominant back colors of adults are olive or brown. As juveniles colors can vary vastly w/young showing black with red, blue shading to yellow, & just about any shade of green, rust, or orange. Color changes w/mood. When relaxed or excited the adults may show juvenile colors. A capra’s eye patch covers most of the upper face with a lighter stripe on the lower edge of the upper jaw. The patch extends back to the upper crest. The eye is surrounded with rays. A. capra has a large throat pouch, which has streaking of rust, & yellow when extended.
A. crucigera: Total length: male,259-262 mm (10 in), females, 212-237 mm (8.5 - 9 in). Habitat: rain forests & montane forest to 1800 meters. A. crucigera is the smallest & most aggressive species of the genus. There are spines on the nape and occiput. A wide gap separates the dorsal crest from the taller nape crest. Crucigera is recognized by the pronounced dark cross on their nape. The colors of the crucigera vary considerably.
A. lepidogaster: Total length: male, 190-276 mm (7.5-11 in), females, 195-264 mm or (7.5-10.5 in). Habitat: montane forests about 700-900 meters up. A. lepidogaster has very short spines on the curve of the eyebrows and occiput. The dorsal crest may or may not be interrupted and consists of very short, closely spaced scales. Juveniles show as diverse color & pattern as A. capra. Some are a even green or orange/brown with no pattern save the black ring around the neck & a few poorly defined orange spots. Others have green, orange or gray w/ladder of heavy bars starting on the back of the neck and spaced down the back & tail. The bars may not remain to adulthood. A. lepidogaster has very definite dark eye patch which covers the most of the upper face |
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