Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.46 (1=lowest, 5=highest)Last Updated: 12/08/2004
Main Category:
Lizards
Sub Category:
Iguanas
Care Sheet Submitted By:
Jif
Years Experience:
5 to 10 Years
Species:
Rhinoceros Iguanan (Cyclura cornuta)
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:
Any of the Cyclura iguana species, including Nubila, Caymanensis, and lewisi hybrid
Sexing and Characteristics:
Rhinoceros Iguanas are difficult to sex until they reach 1.5 to 2 years of age. Probing as hatchlings or juveniles is inadequate, even for experts. Hemipenal bulges should be seen in males by 2 years of age. Adult males are larger than females and can develop enormous jowls and larger cranial lobes.
Mostly Active During:
Day
Substrate and Water Needs:
Hatchling and juvenile Rhinos should be kept on a non-particulate substrate to prevent ingestion. Newspaper, paper towelling, butcher paper, towels, shelf liner, vinyl tiles, and reptile carpet are all suitable choices. Adults could be kept on dirt or a dirt/sand mixture.
Lighting and UVB:
UVB is essential for proper growth and health.
Temperatures and Humidity:
Ambient temps for a Rhino hatchling or juvenile should range between 80 and 100 degrees. A basking spot of 100-105 for young Rhinos is ideal. Adults have been known to bask at temperatures approaching 120 degrees.
Humidity requirements can range from 40-75%. My Rhinos have all done well in the 50% range.
Heating and Equipment:
As long as adequate UVB is provided any safe source of heat can be used. Halogen flood bulbs are inexpensive to purchase and are easy on the electric bill. Regular household lighbulbs can be used for heat as well as CHE’s or radiant heat panels. Night temps for young Rhinos should not drop below 70 degrees. An undertank heating pad or CHE can provide heat overnight.
Caging Provided:
A 20 gallon long aquarium is sufficient for a hatchling thru 6 months. After that use common sense to provide an environment large enough for the Rhino. Rhinos are not an arboreal species so more floor space is better than vertical space.
Diet:
Herbivorous
Description of Diet:
Contrary to what is written on some websites animal protein is not required by growing Rhino Iguanas. A nutritious and varied Green Iguana diet is perfect for growing Rhinos. Staples should include Collard Greens, Mustard Greens, Turnip Greens, Dandelion Greens, Chickory, Watercress, winter squashes, green beans, and parsnips. Add other vegetables to provide variety. Fruit should comprise less than 5% of the diet. Grains can be fed occasionally to juvies and adults, including wild and brown rice or a treat of whole wheat bread or plain cooked pasta.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:
If a proper diet and good UVB exposure is provided, minimal supplementation is required. A good multivitimin/calcium supplement can be used a couple of times a week if desired. I use soaked RepCal iguana pellets to top the salads 2-3 times weekly.
Maintenance:
Adult Rhinoceros iguanas can get HUGE, males sometimes reaching the 30 pound range. They require a lot of floor/roaming space as adults. They seem to be hardy animals and tolerate mistakes in husbandry without major ill effects. They pack a mouthful of very sharp teeth in jaws that can crack snail shells. Always remember that they may appear tame as a puppy but they are still an undomesticated animal. A bite can cause a lot of damage.
Some Words on this Species:
Rhino iguanas are, by far, my favorite iguana species. As adults they can be as attentive and social as a dog and have proven to be wonderful educational animals. Their impressive size and prehistoric appearance make them interesting animals to keep. Visit www.Cyclura.com for more information on the Cyclura iguana species.
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