Care Sheet for *Snakes in GeneralAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.08 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 06/04/2004 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | *Snakes in General |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Anonymous |
Years Experience: | 10 to 15 Years |
Species: | A in depth guide to corn snake care |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Any phase of corn snake. |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Can be sexed by probing. Juveniles can be sexed by popping. I recommend having your vet do it so you don’t injure it, which could make it unable to be bred.
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Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | I recomend using repti-bark as a substrate. You can also use newspaper, although it is not very pretty. Also, they should have a water bowl available at all times. Your snake should be able to completely fit its entire body in its water bowl and be able to submerge it’s self without the water in the bowl overflowing into the cage. |
Lighting and UVB: | Full spectrum during the day, and nocturnal light ing at night |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Doesn’t have a specific humidity requirement, I would just advise not to let it get to humid or that can cause blister on their skin(scales). Also, the day time temperature can range any where 75- 90 degrees. I recomend about 85-88 degrees on the warm end of the cage, and about 75 - 76 degrees on the cool end of the cage. At night tim e the cage temperature shouldn’t drop below 65- 60 degrees. (all temperatures listed above are farenhieght). |
Heating and Equipment: | I use full spectrum bulbs that i get from my local petshop. You can also use a under cage heating pad. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE HOT ROCKS, THESE CAN SEVERLY BURN AND SCAR YOUR ANIMALS!!!!! |
Caging Provided: | You can keep hatchlings in a 15 gallon long cage.An adult should be kept in a 40 gallon. The bigger the cage the better. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Diet should consist completely of mice for adults, and pinkies or fuzzies for juveniles. Frozen rodents are preferable, because live rodents can injure your snake. When you defrost mice you should make sure they are completely thawed out, because if there are any cold or frozen areas left it can cause your snake to become ill. Also, i find it works best to defrost rodents in a glass of warm water, it works quicker than just leaving the rodents out, and helps reduce the # of bacteria that grow on you rodents when they are defrosting. NEVER MICROWVE FROZEN MICE, THEY WILL EXPLODE!!! For hatchlings that prove to be difficult feeders if you are feeding frozen rodents, you may want to try scenting your mouse with grass, or try feeding your hatchling snake a lizard tail or crickets. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | You really dont need to supplement their food with anything if they are consistent feeders, because the bones in mice have all the calcium they need in it. On the other hand if you have a female that is gravid or about to lay eggs, then you may want to dust their food with Reptical Calcium Supplement. This is good since the female is having to use a lot of calcium and other nutrients to produce her eggs. |
Maintenance: | You should clean the water bowl and replace the water every day. This helps prevent the growth of bacteria. You should also, spot clean when ever your snake defecates. Also, a good solution to use to clean your cage with is a mixture of half vinegar and half water. Just make sure to rinse the cage well with water and let the vinegar smell air out before replacing your snake. |
Some Words on this Species: | This is very good snake for people who haven’t kept a reptile, or snake before. This is due to their small sixe 4- 6 ft.,ease of care, and gentle disposition, and they are relatively easy to breed. |
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