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Leopard Gecko Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Geckos

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 10/12/2011

Main Category:

Lizards

Sub Category:

Geckos

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

TheJokerDragon

Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years

Species:

Leopard Gecko

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

None

Sexing and Characteristics:

Near the male’s vent,you’ll see a row of femoral pores shaped like a "V" in front of the vent.There is also a bulge below the vent that’s noticeable.

A Female however, has neither the bulge nor a noticeable row of pores. There is a row there, but it is really not that noticeable.

Mostly Active During:

N/A

Substrate and Water Needs:

Now you might find a few pet companies such as Petsmart,Petco,and others telling you that just because leopard geckos come from the desert,they need sand. Big No No. If sand is accidentally swallowed when trying to eat something,it could cause internal infections such as impactions. The same goes for calcium sand.

Fresh water should be available at all times. You can use a gator aid bottle cap or just get a water bowl especially for reptiles. Water should be changed daily.

Lighting and UVB:

Do not use hot rocks to heat your Leopard Geckos’s cage. In fact, they do not warm the air enough for most reptiles. Use a combination of undertank heating to gently warm a portion of the substrate with a regular light bulb for heat during the day. Even better are the ceramic elements that screw into a fixture just like a light bulb, but do not give off any light. (Red light bulbs are OK for night time use also as reptiles can’t see the red light.) These can be left on all night whereas regular light bulbs must be turned off at night. Leave the heating pad on all night most of the time. I say most of the time because you need to think about the room temperature also. If you live somewhere where the temperature varies significantly (like where I do) you need to make sure that you are not overheating the cage in the summer or underheating it in the winter. The temperature in my living room goes from about 64 in the winter to 85 in the summer. Therefore I turn off one or both of the heating elements during the hottest parts of the summer. (A thermostat would take care of this for you and adjust accordingly.)

Temperatures and Humidity:

Some tanks hold more humidity than others. Humidity lever should be from 10-30%. Be sure to have a humidity control. **Not Recommended**

Heating and Equipment:

None.

Caging Provided:

Leopard geckos mainly are from the desert and need a desert like home. If you read this a few posts above,you do not need any sand for it’s bad for them.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Their main diet is crickets,meal worms, and occasionally waxworms.

Crickets are good because they have a thin exoskeleton and are easier to digest.

Meal worms in my opinion,meal worms make my leopard gecko more active.

Waxworms can cause fat. Which is’nt bad but should’nt be fed on a regular bases.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Crickets,Meal Worms,Pinkies,Waxworms all that need to be dusted with a reptile calcium they usually sell in pet stores. Best way to dust is to put wax worm,cricket,meal worm,whatever,into a ziploc bag full of the calcium and shake it gently until covered with calcium. Should not feed dusted bugs to any reptile daily. Rather once a week.

Maintenance:

None.

Some Words on this Species:

None.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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