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Care Sheet for Bearded Dragons

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.00    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 07/11/2011

Main Category:

Lizards

Sub Category:

Bearded Dragons

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

RIPaxel

Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years

Species:

Bearded Dragon

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:

Male bearded dragons tend to have larger heads but not always. Females are usually smaller and if they wave their arms they are most likely female. Males will also sometimes wave their arms in submission but they will also bob their head in dominance. Males have two lumps at the base of their tail and also pores across their vent, these can either be very faint or very noticeable. Males are sometimes very lazy compared to females but both are very tame-able and easy to handle. Sometimes males tend to be a bit aggressive but with gentle handling they will warm up to you! You should be able to tell the gender of your beardie within 6 months to a year.

Mostly Active During:

Day

Substrate and Water Needs:

For substrates you can use either reptile carpet or VERY fine calcium sand. If sand is ingested it can get impacted and can cause serious illness or even death! I recommend to not use sand. If you make your own enclosures which i do i prefer to use tile as a flooring. Place a piece of newspaper where your beardie poops and when he does all you have to do is pull the newspaper out and exchange it! For water you should either mist the plants in the enclosure and place a bowl of water in the setup or you can place a soaking bowl in the cage, i use a small cat litter box full of water and place it in the tank for my beardies to soak in...they love it! If you do not use a soaking bowl i recommend taking your beardie and letting him/her soak in a tub for about 10 minutes daily or every other day. Of course do not put soap in the water! I do not mist my dragons in the face cause they do not appreciate it..I mean would you wanna get sprayed in the face every day for water?!

Lighting and UVB:

Lighting for bearded dragons should include a 75 watt heat lamp on one side of the tank for the basking side, a regular light bulb for the cool side and a UVB bulb in between. I use a 10 watt UVB bulb. The UVB bulb should be replaced about every six months, even if it emits a light it may not be giving off vitamin D and without it lizards can develop rubber jaw and other disorders. The lights should be on a timer for about 10 hours day 12 hours night.

Temperatures and Humidity:

The temperature for a beardie should stay around 95 to 100 degrees F on the hotter side in the day and no cooler than 65 degrees F in the night on the hotter side. Beardies need a cooler side so they do not get to hot. If you see your dragon gaping they are to hot and you should adjust your lighting. The cool side should stay bin the temperatures around 75 to 85 degrees F. The humidity level does not need to be too high but should not be too low. Since beardies come from a hot environment without a lot of rain the humidity should stay around the 15 to 25 or 35 percentage levels. A humidity sensor in your beardies tank will easily tell you the percentages.

Heating and Equipment:

DO NOT USE HEAT ROCKS OR HEATING PADS FOR BEARDED DRAGON!!!!!! They will get to hot and beardies are not able to feel things under their stomachs and can get seriously burned! Also when using a basking spot place a log or hiding place there so your lizard is able to get closer to the light. A vine across the cage is fun for your dragon and allows them to bask and explore their enclosure. Be sure not to place objects to close to the light bulbs because some dragons will try and climb onto them and hurt themselves. Don’t place objects too far off the ground as bearded dragons are big clutz and will quite often fall off there climbing objects which if to high up can cause death or serious injury.

Caging Provided:

I provide my dragons with a 55 to 60 gallon homemade tank but bigger is better. When young a smaller feeding tank is preferred to help the youngsters easier access to food. Try not to over crowd the tank with stupid decorations that your beardie cannot use.

Diet:

Omnivorous

Description of Diet:

Bearded dragons eat both plant and animal and should be fed twice a day when younger and once a day when older. As babies they will not eat a lot of plant material but when adults 80% of their diet is plant matter. Crickets and mealworms can be fed regularly but waxworms and pinkies are very high in fats and should only be given as a treat. I do not feed my beardies mice because the bones are hard on the lizards digestive system and give my beardies a blood lust. Certain fruits and veggies seem to really make my dragons happy such as, parsley,celery,apple,green beans,raspberries,dandelions, and collared greens and peas. Do not feed your dragon citrus or grapes as it is toxic to them!

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Crickets and other foods should be dusted with calcium and vitamins specifically for beardies. You should especially use these supplements if your beardie is young or pregnant. Feed vitamins once a week and dust food with calcium every day to every other day.

Maintenance:

Bearded dragons are very easy pets to take care of and can be taken care of by both beginners and experienced reptile owners. They are easy to handle and are not quick to run away since they can be VERY lazy! They seem to only go to the bathroom about once a week but they do like to defecate in they’re water so you’ll have to change the water frequently to prevent toxic buildup. Many beardies seem to have they’re own personalities, my first beardie would cock his head and stare at you like a stalker when you walked int he room and that also creeped out all my friends! That same beardie for some strange reason HATED basketballs and use to attack them!

Some Words on this Species:

N/A
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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