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Fire Bellied Toads Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Toads

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 06/07/2009

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 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Herp Helper

Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years


Fire Bellied Toads

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:


Sexing and Characteristics:

They are hard to sex because they don’t have any distinguishing features, but here are some ways you can guess: males will call a small bark type sound, males are usually smaller than females.

Mostly Active During:


Substrate and Water Needs:

There are 2 main ways you can house FBTs.

Way #1. Have gravel slope down to water to created a shoreline type effect. Make sure the gravel is big enough that the toads can’t swallow it when you are feeding them. You will want to have filter unless you are up to changing the water pretty much everyday. You will want the water to be between 3 and 4 inches high. You will want some hiding spaces on land and in the water which can consist of rocks, wood and/or fake or live plants. Some plants that work well are Spider Plants, Pothos, Chinese Evergreens.

Way #2. Have Eco Earth (1 brick works for a 10 gallon, 2 bricks for a 20 gallon and so on) cover the whole tank. Instead of having water with a filter put a water dish in the cage with at least 1.5 inches of water in the dish. You will want hiding spots like in the other way too. You can also plants plants like with way #1 too.

NOTES: You NEED TO HAVE DE-CHLORINATED WATER or else the toads WILL DIE!!! If is a mistake that a lot of people make and if very crucial to your toads health.

Lighting and UVB:

You don’t need UVB. You will want light in case your toads want to bask or in case they want to hid in the shade. Either way you will want light but you don’t need UVB.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Fire Bellied Toads like room temperature which is like 72-75 degrees F. Many people make the mistake of letting there toads get over 80 degrees F. which is lethal! They can tolerate occasional drops to the 60’s but if your cage drops to the high 50’s and low 60’s a lot then you will want to find some source of heat for the toads.

Since the toads are aquatic they don’t need constant spraying but if you have way #2 then you will want to spray enough to keep the humidity between 65-80% humidity. But it isn’t as crucial as with some animals.

Heating and Equipment:

As mentioned above if your cage drops into the high 50’s and low 60’s a lot then you will want some source of heat. Your heating choices are: Lighting, Heat Mat(s), and Aquarium Heaters.

Lighting is pretty simple you just experiment until you find the right kind of bulb for the right output of heat. I find that a 75 watt incandescent bulb works good for a 20 gallon cage.

Heat mats are pretty simple to because the packaging on them usually says how much heat they provide and that makes them easy to use. Put the on the side of the tank because then its nice for the toads if they are cold they move closer and if they are too warm then they move far away.

Aquarium heaters are only needed in you have way #1 because they aren’t meant to heat water dishes. They too like heat mats say how much output they give so you know what to buy.

Just remember not to over heat them and not to let them get too cold either.

Caging Provided:

I have a 20 gallon cage with 2 bricks of Eco Earth on the left side and 4 quarts of Repti-Bark on the right side. I have them separated so less water gets into the water dish (I have a Exo Terra water dish) because it get rubbed off onto the bark when the toads go over there.

I have 3 spider plants planted in the Eco Earth on the left side. I have a Exo Terra cave on the left side for a optional hiding spot but the plants also work as a hiding spot. For heating and lighting I use a 75 watt incandescent in the winter and a 100 watt fluorescent in the summer.

For a little effect I bought a background that has rocks and plants which makes the cage look a lot more natural and real.

I mist every other day and feed every couple days.



Description of Diet:

Crickets - small to medium. If the crickets are too big the toads can choke on them and die. But these are a main staple of food.

Meal worms - small to medium. These are less of a staple diet because of there hard exo skeletons they are hard to digest. You should probably feed them in another cage because they can burrow and will die and make you cage smell bad. Or you can feed them with feeding tongs.

Rolly Pollys (Pill Bugs) - I know it sounds weird that they would be able to eat these and that they are safe, they actually are. Just be careful not to get them outside because they can carry parasites and pesticides when lawns get sprayed.

They are really fun to watch when they eat.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

I use Fluker’s Repta Calcium and Fluker’s Repta Vitamin. I use the calcium powder one feeding, the vitamin powder the next, then I skip them both the next feeding and then I repeat the process.

Some people think that they don’t need supplements and stuff but they do and will die if they are not given them.


Make sure the plants don’t go dry if you have them. Don’t forget about misting. Change there water if they need to.

Pretty simple maintenance if I do say so myself.

Some Words on this Species:

They are poisonous, so wash your hands before and after you handle them!

They need de-chlorinated water!

Make sure you have a top for your cage because if you don’t they will escape and will probably die after they escape.

Overall they are very cool pets with a good personality and are fun in many ways!
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The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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