Care Sheet for *Snakes in GeneralAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 07/07/2008 |
Main Category: | Snakes |
Sub Category: | *Snakes in General |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Fillerbunny |
Years Experience: | 1 to 2 Years |
Species: | Striped keelback, aka indonesian garter snake |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Extremely docile species in my experience I have never ever seen any aggression of on mine. They are rear fanged colubrids but their bite is not dangerous to humans like many rear fanged colubrids the bite is a tiny bit more painful than a bee sting and non-necrotic or damaging to humans. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | I’ve used alto of different substrates but going off of the fact that they are semi-aquatic snake something that does not mold easily is best so you can keep a decent humidity, I like cypress but have used fir, and aspen. Mine seems to enjoy the aspen because its easy for it to burrow which mine love to do, but aspen is not very good for high humidity. Water bowl needs to be big not huge or anything but big enough for the snake to soak comfortably. |
Lighting and UVB: | I personally dont give my snakes lights I prefer heating pads for heat. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | I keep my temperatures at about 85 in the day on the hot side with about a 5-10 degree difference on the cool side. humidity it probably best at about 50% |
Heating and Equipment: | My preference is under tank heater but heat tape works really well also.
A humid box is a favorite of my snake which is a Tupperware box big enough for him to comfortably hide filled 2/3s with wet moss or damp paper towels (i find moss works best) i place this in center of tank because it fits there, And a dry hide on the warm side so it has a place to hide while digesting its food. Fake plants can be used to as this species like to hide and burrow. |
Caging Provided: | 10 gallon will do fine for most of its life though a 20 gallon would be comfortable once it is full grown, though they do not get very big at all. Too large a cage and I have witnessed that they will just stay in their hide from feeling too out in the open |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | In the wild they consume fish, frogs, tadpoles, and small mammals, they balance their diet by eating a variety of species. I believe they can survive on just fish but fish are not as balanced nutritionally as mice. Also fish frequently carry parasites that can be transferred to your snake. So it is highly recommended that they be fed mice that way there is no worry about what the snake isn’t getting because it does not have access to a balanced diet. BUT if you must feed them fish steer clear of goldfish they are very trashy as a food source high in fat and they contain thiamine which in high concentration can be harmful to you pet, guppies are the best fish i have found to be used as feeder fish. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | None that i know of |
Maintenance: | Very low maintenance, spot check every couple of days and remove their droppings and change their bedding every few weeks to a month. Change water every couple of days or so and whenever defecated in. Spray humid box whenever its contents dry up, I check the moss for urates or feces if clean I spray mine about once a week and change moss every few weeks or so if defecated in I change and put new moss. |
Some Words on this Species: | I love this species and wish they were more being bred. There is little info on them so I hope this helps anyone in need, most people say that you can just use garter snake info I believe this happens for two reason one is their habitats are similar and another is this is an extremely hardy snake and can survive in some of the worst conditions but their are definitely differences even if they are subtle ones the main difference is this is a semi-aquatic snake and prefers a higher humidity than a garter snake needs. |
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