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Mandarin Salamander Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Salamanders, Newts

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.00    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 05/27/2008

Main Category:

Aquatic/Land

Sub Category:

Salamanders, Newts

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Ammeratsu

Years Experience:

5 to 10 Years

Species:

Mandarin Salamander

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

N/A

Sexing and Characteristics:

Sexing:
Males have a swollen cloaca
Females cloaca is flat

Mandarin Salamanders have 14 bumps on each flank which are poison glands. They grow up to 4-6 inches

Mostly Active During:

N/A

Substrate and Water Needs:

I found that the best substrate for them is coconut fiber kept damp(Not soaking wet). It’s harmless if ingested while feeding and retains moisture very well. But, if it gets to be too wet for a long period of time, mold will begin to grow.

They should be given a shallow water dish large enough for them to soak in. Keep the water shallow enough so they can stand with their head out of the water but deep enough so they can soak. If you don’t have a separate area of water with a filter, change the fish every day.

I personally have a separate area of water separated from land with a piece of glass(Filed so it’s not sharp) glued with 100% silicon. He seems to like it.

Lighting and UVB:

Since mandarin salamanders are nocturnal, they do not need any special lighting or UVB lights. They hide during the day.

I personally think it’s beneficial to have a photo-period to create a natural and steady routine, but I don’t use special UVB/UVA lights

Temperatures and Humidity:

Mandarin salamanders do well with a 70-80 F day temperature and 60-70 F night temperature. Humidity should be kept between 60-80

I personally have the day temperature at 75 and night at 70. My humidity is always 70-80%

Heating and Equipment:

Mandarin salamanders don’t need special heating, and a basking lamp would be pointless as they are nocturnal. As long as you keep the temperature as stated above, there’s no problem.

You need a humidity and temperature gage and a spray bottle. I’m not going to go into great detail. The rest should be obvious if you know what you’re getting

Caging Provided:

I have a 20 gallon long aquarium. I used a 4 inch high piece of glass and 100% silicon to glue it in my tank. This keeps the water and the land separate. In the land section, I put a layer of gravel and then coconut fiber substrate. On top of that I put sphagnum and another kind of moss. I used a piece of drift wood shaped like a cave for a hideout as well as a live plant(Gold Ribbon). I filled the water to almost the top of the glass(4 inches) and used a couple drops of tap water conditioner to rid it of chlorine. I placed a leafy fake plant that’s good for standing on while soaking. I have a filter with a piece of screen on it so he doesn’t crawl or fall in. I have a floating turtle dock and another fake plant. I covered the filter with a fake plant that hangs over it and used a piece of drift wood and put it under the filter to create a water fall. I have a humidity gage and temperature gage in the back. I mist the cage whenever the humidity gets low. I have a screen top with a fluorescent coil mostly for viewing but also for a photo-period. I covered the screen with towels and left an opening to maintain humidity but let air in.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

I feed mine a variety of foods. I give him earthworms, mealworms, crickets, and pheonix worms. As a treat, I give him wax worms or a strip of lean or ground beef. Wax worms are high in fat and shouldn’t be used as a staple diet. The beef must be raw and unseasoned.

Do not feed any vegetation and his staple diet should be crickets and worms

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

If you use phoenix worms, there’s no need to supplement the diet. If you don’t, dust the food with vitamin/calcium powder once a week

Maintenance:

If you use coconut fiber substrate, it does not need to be cleaned except for maybe once a year or 6 months. I replace the moss after a couple months(mostly because it dies). Water changes with should be done every other day if you don’t have a large area of water or a filter. If you have a filter, use a turkey baster to spot clean and a fish vacuum to change the water.

Some Words on this Species:

N/A
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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