Care Sheet for Salamanders, NewtsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 02/17/2008 |
Main Category: | Aquatic/Land |
Sub Category: | Salamanders, Newts |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Whiplash Hornet |
Years Experience: | Under 1 Year |
Species: | Tiger Salamander |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | Fire Salamander |
Sexing and Characteristics: | Males have larger swelling around the colaca, females are generally smaller and become fatter during breeding season. |
Mostly Active During: | Night |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Cover the bottom of the tank with a layer of large pebbles as drainage then on top of this add approx 5inches of soil/compost. This should be kept moist, not sticky or damp just not bone dry. Be sure to add a raised platform (such as a piece of bark) so the salamanders can get on solid ground if they wish. Add some fake/real leaves on top of this and a few hiding places so the salamanders do not get stressed.
Water is not necessarily required provided the cage is misted every other day to retain the humidity. Salamanders will be more likely to use any water bowl as a toilet as they prefer to burrow than to swim. If you do provide a water bowl then make sure they can get out of it easily, change the water every day and you MUST use dechlorinator. |
Lighting and UVB: | Salamanders do appreciate some light however normal light in a room (From a window) is fine. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Humidity must be maintained, spray every other day at least twice, make sure to spray the soil. The enclosure should be humid but not damp. Dechlorinate the water you are using to mist with. |
Heating and Equipment: | None is required Salamanders are quite happy at room temperature, in England they will be fine while in America you may have to keep them in a cooler room. In England use a wooden vivarium or a large plastic box. Glass tanks are a bad idea as they are expensive and lose heat far too quickly. In America either of the three is fine. |
Caging Provided: | A plastic box (24 inches by 16 inches by 10 inches) (20 US gallons) is fine for two salamanders though although not necessary you may wish to upgrade the size when they get older. Be sure to add surface cover (Bark), some hiding spots (plastic plants and a reptile cave) and a appropriate water bowl if you wish (I would add one) and the salamanders should be perfectly happy. |
Diet: | Carnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Feed predominately on frozen food. You can buy frozen mealworms (which they love) and crickets. Defrost these and use a feeder bowl or attract attention by moving the food item with a pair of tongs. Salamanders can be trained to beg for food and seem to enjoy hand feeding. Variation is the key, adults are fed two to three times a feed, while juveniles should be fed three to four times. Feed up to five items per salamander at a sitting. If you have more than one salamander feed them separately as they may injure each other otherwise. Give the salamanders live food on occasion (be sure to wash it if you caught it yourself) but be sure they eat it before you leave them alone. Take them out to a feeding tub or something. It is safe to leave an earthworm or two with them but I don’t particularly want to be looking for one of my salamanders and end up finding a worm in my enclosure, so I would recommend the feeding tub for live food. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Salamanders do not require any supplements but it will improve their health and is a good idea to dust the food before giving it to them.
To dust place the food in a plastic bag containing the supplement power and shake the food item around in the bag till it has been covered, then feed to the Salamander.
Note: Salamanders can be given Pinkies (baby mice) as a source of extra nutrition occasionally but do not feed these often as they are high in fat. It is not a necessity for your salamander to be fed Pinkies. |
Maintenance: | Salamanders are very low maintenance animals. For a 24" by 16" by 10" (20 gallon box) clean the whole thing out, washing the pebbles and changing the soil once very four months. For a smaller tank once every two months. Larger enclosures should still be cleaned every four months at the least. |
Some Words on this Species: | Handling:
Salamanders are not adverse to handling however it can be bad for them. Wash hand thoroughly with soap (removing all traces of the soap from your hands afterwards) and dry well before and after handling a salamander. Before picking the salamander, mist each of you hands once and mist the salamander occasionally when you have it out and when you put it back. It is salt from sweat in your hands that is bad for their skin. While handling in this way do not handle for long.
However there is a way around this. You must still wash and dry your hands properly before and after but instead you then put on disposable rubber gloves. Be sure to mist these and dispose of them appropriately after three handlings. You must still still mist the salamander and the gloves in the same way but this method allows you to handle the salamander for long periods of time. However if the salamander appears uncomfortable or stressed you should replace it (to its enclosure) immediately. This method should be used if you are feeding the salamander ON (not from) your hand as it may be there a while. In this case only mist the salamander when you get it out as it will not enjoy it while eating!
General:
Salamanders are a hardy and friendly species that can be tamed in the same way as a hamster can (do not expect it to roll around in a ball), they will follow their keeper’s movements while inside their tank and will beg for food. Look after your salamander appropriately and you will have a long lived and rewarding pet.
Further Notes:
Salamanders this covers all tigers and the fire salamander, note figures represent the maximum out of all species of tiger salamander not every species.
Maximum Size: 14 inches
Diet: Carnivore
Lighting: Normal daylight
Heating: None, keep at room temperature (60-70F)
Enclosure: 20 Gallon for two
Humidity: Maintain
Poison: For the most part no, only in select salamanders if eaten.
Fire Salamander: Produces a milky venom from glands in its neck that is visible and irritates the skin and eyes. It is capable of spraying this venom in the face of an attacker. Most Fire Salamanders abandon this ability in captivity, though it is best to wear goggles while handling until you are comfortable around your pet.
Good luck! |
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