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Care Sheet for Pythons

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.20    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 02/24/2004

Main Category:

Snakes

Sub Category:

Pythons

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Roachey56

Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years

Species:

Ball Python

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Ball Python

Sexing and Characteristics:

If you want to be sure of the Sex get it Popped and probed at the herp vet.

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

Needs a water dish big enough to soak in placed on the cool side of enclosure. The best substrate is all white paper towels or newspaper. If your humidity is low (under 50%) try using Lizard litter, or cypress mulch to keep humidity between 50% and 60%.

If using a substrate other than paper towels/newspaper do not let your BP ingest it during feeding time. Either feed it in a separate tank or feed it on newspaper.

Lighting and UVB:

No UVA/UVB necessary. A day nigh cycle is necessary (12 hrs w/light 12hrs w/o light).

Temperatures and Humidity:

Temperature at substrate level on hot end- 90-92 degrees
Temperature at substrate level at cool end- 80-82 degrees
Ambient humidity (measured at substrate level in the middle) a minimum of 50% and maximum of 65% but during a shed cycle a minimum of 60% and maximum of 75%

To measure the Temp/humidity i suggest buying a digital thermometer with a probe and a digital hydrogmeter at the local wal-mart.

Substrate should NEVER be wet only damp.

Heating and Equipment:

The best way to heat is using a reptile UTH on the warm end and a human heat pad set on low on the cool end. Both should be connected to a thermostat with a probe. Place probe at substrate level at the warm end.

Caging Provided:

BP’s need a MINIMUM cage of 36" by 18" by 18", 36" long by 18" wide by 18" tall. I suggest buying or making a cage that is 3’ by 2’ by 2’, 3’ long by 2’ wide by 2’ tall.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Feed your BP one PREKILLED (dead, frozen/thawed, freshkilled) mouse or rat per week. The prey items width should be the width of your snake. Only feed a live prey item when instructed by your vet. If you snake will not eat a prekilled prey item make sure the temps and humidity are correct, make sure it is not in a shed cycle, and make sure it is a Captive Born snake. If it skips a meal do not worry feed it the next week. You only need to get worried if it doesn’t eat for 1 month or more, then you should contact the vet.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

No vitamin or calcium supplementation required, UNLESS directed by your vet.

Maintenance:

Water changed every day with chlorine, chloramine, metal free water (USE spring water). Poop and Urates cleaned as soon as you see them. Complete cage cleaning once a month.

When you get your snake do not handle it or offer it food for 1 week. Then try to handle it everyday for at least 15 minutes. Do not handle for 48 hours after feeding.

Some Words on this Species:

Ball pythons make great begining snakes, but you must research them carefully and make sure everything is optimal for it before it comes home. I suggest buying and reading two books:
"The Ball PYthon Manual"- best boook on BPs
"The guide to owning and Keeping a ball python"-good book on BPs
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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