Care Sheet for ChameleonsAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 11/11/2007 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Chameleons |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Nature_Boy_J |
Years Experience: | 5 to 10 Years |
Species: | Veiled Chameleon |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | This care sheet if prepared for Veiled chameleons only (Chamaeleo calyptratus). |
Sexing and Characteristics: | As hatchlings, it’s pretty hard to tell, but after a couple of weeks it become easier as males develop spurs behind their rear feet. When a little older, males will develop much more coloration and pattern than females, such as yellow or orange and brown stripes on the already green background. Colours such as black, white, blue and purple may also be present. Females stay generally green with a few faded markings usually consisting of orange, blue and brown. Males also grow much larger than females, but this can not really be observed until about 7 or 8 months old. Also, males have a larger casque (tall helmet structure on the tops of their heads) than females. You may probe a chameleon, but in this species, it is usually totally unnecessary. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | Loose substrate such as wood chippings is not recommended as it can be ingested and may block the chameleon’s digestive track. This can cause serious problems for your chameleon and often results in expensive veterinary treatment. I have found that you don’t really need any substrate as this species of chameleon spends most of its time high up anyway. But it probably best to use something such as newspaper or paper towels to mop up any urine or water droplets.
As chameleons do not recognize still water, a simple water bowl is no use. However there are several ways in which to provide drinking water for your chameleon.
A drip system - Hang a clean plastic cup at the top of the vivarium with a hole in the bottom and an ice cube placed in it. As the ice cube melts droplets of water fall onto the leaves below, thus catching the chameleon’s attention. When the ice is completely melted, a new one should be put in. If this is creating unwanted puddles of water at the bottom of the vivarium, an empty bowl or tray can be placed on the bottom on the vivarium in the water droplets path to catch them.
A misting system or fogger - These can be purchased from most pet shops that deal with reptiles or amphibians. They are usually set on a timer and create a fine mist that will completely engulf most of the vivarium. These are probably the best method of hydration for a chameleon as they require less attention. You simply set the timer to go on for about 10 - 20 minutes about 3 times per day. There are now many different types of misters and foggers so read the instructions or get advice for the specific one that you buy.
Using a spray gun - You may also spray the leaves and walls on your chameleons vivarium several times per day with a spray gun. You must ensure that you spray it enough that water droplets form and begin to fall.
Remember, the more plants you have in your vivarium, the more effective the above methods are. The more leaves - the more water droplets. Fake or plastic plants are recommended but live plants may be used, I will go into detail later about live plant species you are able to use.
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Lighting and UVB: | UVB is a must for chameleons as it enables them to synthesis vitamin D3, which enables them to process calcium. If not provided, the chances are that your chameleon will develop MBD (metabolic bone disease) or hypocalcemia.
As most UVB lights only emit the required amount to a certain distance (usually only about 30cm), the branches or climbing equipment within the vivarium should be placed as to position your chameleon the correct distance away from the light.
There are also much more powerful UVB lights available now, emitting UVB up to 200cm from the bulb. Special care should be considered when using these as they may give off a lot of heat.
Lighting should be provided 12 hours a day.
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Temperatures and Humidity: | The hottest point of the vivarium should not exceed 100 F and the over all temperature of the enclosure should be around 85 F. It is a good idea to provide a cooler area lower down in the vivarium for the chameleon to retreat to if it feels too hot. This should be slightly cooler than the overall temperature at around 75 F - 80 F. Hatchling or young chameleons should be kept slightly cooler than adults (over all temperature - 80 F)
Many people believe chameleons require a particularly low humidity level. The adequate humidity for a Veiled chameleon is around 50 - 60%. Prolonged low humidity levels can lead to kidney problems in chameleons. The methods used to provide your chameleon with drinking water will help to keep the humidity up. A humidity meter should be placed in the vivarium to keep an eye on humidity levels.
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Heating and Equipment: | Heat or spot lamps are the main method of providing warmth for your chameleon. Usually a 40w or 60w bulb will do, but if this does not produce enough heat then I recommend using two bulbs, opposed to a stronger one, as higher wattage bulbs may burn your chameleon.
As the Veiled chameleon is an arboreal species, heat mats are pretty useless when placed under the vivarium. Instead, they may be placed on the outside walls of your vivarium.
Remember all wiring must be away from contact with water. |
Caging Provided: | Veild chameleons require a lot of vertical space as they are almost entirely arboreal. They also require a lot of ventilation as poor ventilation conditions may result in a respiratory disease.
Young Veiled chameleons should be kept in an enclosure no smaller than 24" high X 18" wide X 12" deep. As they get older, they will require a much larger vivarium. At adult size, your chameleon will require a vivarium of about 48"high by 24" wide by 24" deep. Your chameleon vivarium is also best placed as high up as possible, as they feel more comfortable looking down at you.
Vivariums must be provided with many climbing branches, vines and plants.
When young, males and females may be housed together, but as they mature they will need to be separated as females can become pregnant as early as 5 or 6 months old, even before they are fully developed. |
Diet: | Omnivorous |
Description of Diet: | Veiled chameleons should be fed a diet consisting of mainly crickets and locusts. waxworms are not recommended as part of their main dies as they are high in fat, but may be offered as a treat because they really seem to like them. Mealworms must also be avoided as if not chewed properly; they may eat their way out of your chameleon’s stomach!
Veiled chameleons often get bored of eating the same food day in day out. So a variation of all different types of insects should be offered.
They may also eat snails, earthworms, woodlice, moths and even pinky mice (if you can get them to eat out of your hand)
Veiled chameleons will also eat vegetable matter. Pothos or Devils Ivy, hibiscus, Umbrella plants, Ficus benjamani, watercress, spring greens and Dandelion leaves are just some of the plants your chameleon may eat. Don’t be worried if your chameleon never takes to eating plants as many never do. Veiled chameleons tend to eat plants as a way of hydrating themselves at times of drought or if water is sparse.
Young and old chameleons should be offered food everyday. Don’t be worried if your chameleon doesn’t eat one day, you only have to start worrying when 4 or 5 days have passed without eating. As they get older they will eat slightly less.
Hatchling chameleons will require smaller food items that adult chameleons. Hatchling chameleons should be fed fruitflies and pinhead or hatchling crickets. As they get a little bigger, they will require larger crickets and maybe small locusts. As they hit adulthood, they will require hopper locusts or large adult locusts and large crickets. Your chameleon should be able to swallow its food without any struggle. Use your common sense!
Remember, Veiled chameleons have a huge apatite, so you should always have food available. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | Using a calcium and vitamin supplement is very important to the health of your chameleon. This usually comes in a powder form and can be sprinkled over food. This powder should be used every time you feed your chameleon when young. As they reach adulthood, it is only necessary to supplement food every other feed (about once or twice a week).
The crickets or locusts you feed your chameleon should also be gut-loaded. To do this you can purchase a small plastic tank and keep the live food in it for about 48 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. Inside the tank you should provide the crickets or locusts with food. You can purchase lots of different cricket and locust foods but I find using Weatabix or bran flakes, cabbage, dried egg white does the trick. Also you may include a piece of cucumber or a small piece of damp sponge for a drink. |
Maintenance: | The enclosure must be spot cleaned daily. With such a huge apatite, comes huge amount of Feces! The whole vivarium should be cleaned with a reptile friendly disinfectant every couple of months.
Also, always keep an eye on temperature and humidity levels to ensure they stay in the right levels. |
Some Words on this Species: | The enclosure must be spot cleaned daily. With such a huge apatite, comes huge amount of Feces! The whole vivarium should be cleaned with a reptile friendly disinfectant every couple of months.
Also, always keep an eye on temperature and humidity levels to ensure they stay in the right levels.
Females will become gravid even if they have never been introduced to a male. Therefore, an egg laying sight must be provided. You will know when your female is about to lay eggs as her belly will be almost twice its usual size. Also she will seem very restless, wondering around the bottom of her enclosure - looking for a suitable place to lay her eggs. An ideal egg laying sight would be a container of at lease 12 square inches and about 12" deep filled with moist compost or sand. (Make sure the compost you use has no plant foods or weed killers in it). If a gravid female is not provided with an egg laying sight, she may become egg-bound, which usually leads to serious problems.
The Veiled chameleon is one of the most spectacular and amazing animals I have ever come across. Each one has its own little personality, likes and dislikes. They also have a reputation as being an aggressive species; I however, cannot see where this idea came from! Veiled chameleons are very lay-back animals with gently handling.
With great care and a great understanding of this species, comes great rewards
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