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Amazonian Milk Frog Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Tree Frogs

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 0.00    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 03/27/2007

Main Category:


Sub Category:

Tree Frogs

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Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years


Amazonian Milk Frog

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Milky Cave Tree Frog

Sexing and Characteristics:

A sure sign that you have a male is that you can hear him calling out looking for a female. Males also have nuptial pads on their thumbs which are more pronounced when they want to breed. Amazon milk frogs are a fairly large frog, attaining sizes of 2.5 to 4 inches in length.They are light grey in color with brown or black banding. as juveniles their patterning is much more contrasting and fades some as they age. Their skin has a slightly bumpy texture to it.

Mostly Active During:


Substrate and Water Needs:

For a substrate i use jungle mix mixed with meleleuca bark which helps in retaining moisture. On top of that i lay down some sphagnum moss and mood moss which actually comes to life in the right conditions. I clean his cage and shift the substrate regularly to not promote stagnant conditions. I have a waterfall which he really loves as well as a water dish. They prefer shallow water rather than deep. make sure all water which enters the vivarium has sat out for 24 hours or treated with a conditioner which removes chlorine and chloramines. I like to use the conditioner as it reduces the pH levels and stimulates slime coat development which provides a natural protective barrier against sickness.

Lighting and UVB:

I use a reptile uvb tube light which is great for my plants as well. The hours I leave it on depends on what season it is. It is recommended to change the bulb about every 6 months.

Temperatures and Humidity:

I keep the overall temperature of the enclosure from 72-75 degrees with a basking spot of about 80-85 degrees which gives him a pretty good gradient. I really don’t play around with nighttime temps, but it does cool down a little at night. humidity i keep pretty high around 65-75%. If i find he is soaking a lot i keep it on the high end misting twice a day.

Heating and Equipment:

I use a nocturnal infrared heat lamp which is an ideal 24 hour heat source and is great for night time viewing. A 50 watt bulb is perfect of my enclosure and gives him a nice gradient.

Caging Provided:

I keep my frog in a glass 18x18x18 inch enclosure with front sliding doors and a screen top. I keep a good portion of the top covered to keep the humidity levels up. Make sure he has lots of branches for resting and climbing. My branches have actually taken root in the substrate and began growing leaves! I have a variety of live plants as well which is good for oxygen, resting and hiding places, and is of course more natural and makes the tank look great. I also have a nice piece of deadwood for him to sit on or hide under, rocks and a waterfall as well as a water dish.



Description of Diet:

My frog has a very healthy appetite and eats a lot. I put him in a dozen or so medium size crickets and they are usually gone in two days. They can also eat mini mealworms and other insects. I was even told that adults can be offered a pink every now and again, but I’m not too sure on that and I will not be feeding pinks to my frog.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Dust crickets with calcium 2-3 times a week.


I keep the enclosure as clean as possible, cleaning regularly. the last thing you want is mold and bacteria that grow in stagnant conditions. If this happens my best advice is to completely replace the substrate and clean the contents before replacing them. Change the water daily or when it is soiled. Try not to handle your frog too much as it stresses him and disturbs the slime coating which protects them. All in all he is a relatively high maintenance animal.

Some Words on this Species:

The amazonian milk frog is found in humid rainforest regions and often inhabit plant life above moving water. More unique than their appearance is their breeding behavior. This species of frog breeds only in holes inside large trees, which is one of the reasons it took hobbyists so long to successfully breed them in captivity. Their common name milk frog refers to the poisonous, white, milky secretion that this frog, along with other Phrynohyas species, secrete when threatened.
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The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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