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Care Sheet for Anoles

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.50    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 03/22/2007

Main Category:

Lizards

Sub Category:

Anoles

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Reptilezilla1616

Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years

Species:

All About Green Anoles

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Gren Anoles and Green Anoles Only

Sexing and Characteristics:

Males have larger dewlaps and large bumps at the base of the tail. Some males lose their white stripe yet some don’t. Usually males are larger but sometimes thatís not the case at all. Even though both of the sexes have dewlaps the males is always larger and shows it more often. Dewlap is usually a pinkish-auburn color unless you find a cream or albino, also yellow colored ones have been found as well.

Mostly Active During:

Day

Substrate and Water Needs:

Food is any kind of insect that is smaller than head and doesnít carry parasites. Mine prefer mosquito hawks, waxworms, small crickets, and medium crickets. As for the water, you must lightly mist the leaves in your cage 2-3 times a day. You can also put a small water dish in there for them to cool off in if they get overheated or fall asleep to close to a light.

Lighting and UVB:

UVB lights work and also basking lights. Lucky me, my house ranges from the low 70s - high 80s, so I use a small light on the side. Lizards do best when they have a lit area and a shaded area.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Temperatures are good from 75-90 degrees. make sure that they do have a shaded cool spot and a lit basking area. When trying to breed them from about 80-90 degrees is averaged. As far as humidity, I live in Louisiana so I put them outside around noon and when I mist them then, that’s when they get mostly humid and I leave under the porch the rest of the day so they stay in perfect temp. and humidity which humidity should set at about 60% to 80% humid.

Heating and Equipment:

Like I said A UVB or basking light should do unless your house is at perfect temperature. If they always site with their mouth open they are two hot. And I would switch to a smaller light.

Caging Provided:

A minimum 10 gallon holds 1-2 lizards each. The cages arenít too expensive unless you are housing many anoles. Donít ever put more than one male in a cage. If you are trying to breed you can switch out you males every two weeks if you have more than one. A 40 gallon is ideal for 1-3 lizards even though it can hold up to 4 lizards. But make sure no matter what size cage you have that you are sexing your lizards right.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Insects and bugs that are smaller than the head. Mostly small min. gut-loaded crickets. Also small roaches and mosquito hawks. They also enjoy wax worms and mealworms. Make sure that all food is pesticide-free. If you are housing more than 5 anoles, I would consider breeding crickets. It saves a lot of money in the long run. They can eat 2-3 crickets a day. Also lightly mist the leaves of your cage 2-3 times a day.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

As far as calcium goes, it best to gut-load your crickets before feeding them to your lizards! This improves the health of your pet tremendously!!! Gut-load them by keeping them with peeled slices of oranges, apples, carrots, and potato rounds.

Maintenance:

Anoles do require a lot of time but watching them in their natural habitat is worth it in the long run. It does cost a lot of money to handle them though. They arenít good first few pets, but any age about 10 or over can handle them if they have the love, time, effort, and money to handle them!

Some Words on this Species:

Green anoles are your main lizards. Most of the time found with white stripes down there back, anoles can be found under leaves, in plants, on the wall, on sticks, in trees and mostly anywhere from the ground up to 20 feet high in the air! They are very creative and free-spirited lizards who are often called chameleons, but are not a chameleon of any sort. They are just called this because of their ability to turn from green to brown.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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