Your Reptile and Amphibian Resource and Information Site

Home   Forums   Members Area   Care Sheets   Articles   Veterinarians   Photo Gallery   Todays Posts
Photo Server   Search   Your Messages   Polls   Archives   Rules   Register   Log In   Log Out   Webmaster
Classifieds   Adoptions   Look For Reptiles or Amphibians  

Back to Care Sheet List

Uromastyx Mali Care Sheets
Add Standard Care Sheet  Add Alternative Care Sheet


Uromastyx Forums and Discussion DISCLAIMER - PLEASE READ More Uromastyx Care Sheets

Care Sheet for Uromastyx

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.20    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 02/14/2008

Main Category:

Lizards

Sub Category:

Uromastyx

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Anonymous

Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years

Species:

Uromastyx Mali

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Basic Uromastyx Care

Sexing and Characteristics:

A Mali can be difficult to sex since they can mimic each other. Usually the males are larger when full grown than a female with a dark black head, feet and tails . Females are lighter , almost a tan/brown in color, with a smaller head and thinner tail base . Uros should never be probed since it is not a accurate way to sex them and can be dangerous . You can not sex a Uro by the coloring or femoral pores . Its even difficult for experienced breeders .

Mostly Active During:

Day

Substrate and Water Needs:

If under 7 inches long all uros should be on layers of paper towels since there is a danger of impaction if you use a loose substrate .If over 7 inches you can use finch seed( or small seed ) and washed sifted play sand are the most popular . Always freeze the seed over night to kill any mites .Some Uros will eat the seed so I personally do not recommend it .Never use crushed walnut shells or calci sand . I prefer washed sifted play sand .Some people use several different types of substrates ,for example using a slate , tile or reptile carpet with a box of sand for digging in .If using carpet make sure the edges do not fray .Uros like to dig and naturally live in a rocky or desert area .Healthy Uros get their water from their foods and should not have a water bowl in the cage since it will increase the humidity . Only a dehydrated Uro or new arrival would need a water bowl place in the cage for short periods of time then taken out especially at night .

Lighting and UVB:

They need bright lights during the day and a good UVB light . Mega Ray Mercury Vapor bulbs are worth the extra expense . UVB fluorescent bulbs should be no less than 10.0 and changed at least every 5-6 months . The UVB bulbs need to be 12" or less from the bottom of the cage with no screen , glass or plastic between the Uro and the light or the UVB rays will be blocked.UVB rays will give the Uro vitamin D which in turns helps it process calcium , without it he could develop MBD. I disagree with some people that say they do not need a UVB light . Better to be safe than sorry . Lights should be on approx . 12-13 hours a day and off at night .Natural sun light can be provide by taking your Uro outside in a secure enclosure, if 90 degrees but monitor and provide a shaded area .

Temperatures and Humidity:

Day time temps . should be 120-130 degrees Fahrenheit over the basking area , 100 ambient air temp . and 80-85 degrees at the cooler end of the enclosure .Night time temp. of 70-75 degrees . I prefer 72 . These are desert animals so I would aim for humidity below 20 % but if you can not always achieve that and you have the proper lighting / temps. 50% should be okay .

Heating and Equipment:

Even a young Uro needs a cage no smaller than 48 inches x 24 inches x 24inches. This is imperative ! An Egyptian needs at least 6 feet x24 feet x24 feet . A secure top , two or more hides placed at each end of the cage ,a food bowl with a lip , ( they are messy eaters ) two digital thermometers place one at each end on the cage ( stick on and cheep ones are not accurate ), an infra red temp gun is best for checking the basking area . You will need several lighting fixtures that are made to be used with heat bulbs and will have to experiment with different bulbs to achieve the proper temp . gradient since it will vary with the type of cage , substrate being used,size of cage , room temp . etc.Uros need as much floor space as possible . A thermostat and timer comes in handy .Provide several low dark hides . Place any heavy objects directly on the floor of the cage so that the Uro can not dig under it . Make sure everything is secure so that nothing can shift or fall on the Uro .Each Uro needs his own cage , they are solitary animals .

Caging Provided:

A 48x24x24 aquarium , screen folding lid, with three sides of the cage covered with aquarium backing ( to provide security ). I prefer to use washed sifted play sand as a substrate with large natural rocks, a hollow log , two hides , and a y tube leading into his hide . UVB light , heat lamp and two addition lights .I am using two digital thermometers , one with a humidity gauge .

Diet:

Herbivorous

Description of Diet:

The best diet is a large variety of fresh, rinsed greens . Like endive, escarole , dandelion greens and flowers, sweet bell peppers , edible pesticide free flowers like hibiscus , orchids , roses, Pansy , nasturtiums ,squash , mango , finch seed , dried small lentils. Lentils can be soaked in hot water over night or feed dry .Never feed red kidney beans , sunflower seeds , kale or any thing you are not sure of .Ratio for greens to fruits should be 3-1.
On occasion bok choy ,peas , carrots ,seedless grapes, turnip greens ,cantaloupe,cilantro, or green beans can be given .Never feed spinach , broccoli , crickets ,or worms of any kind . Hence they are herbivorous .

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Supplements can be given sparingly but if you are feeding a good varied diet ,and are using a UVB light ,they are not necessary . If given , I would mix in just a pinch 1 x a week . Bee Pollen Granules found at most health food stores can be given once a week, small amounts .

Maintenance:

Daily spot cleaning is necessary since they drag their food around . A much better cleaning once a week ,by wiping down the glass . A complete change of substrate should be done and disinfecting the cage and contents once every 3 months .Its a good idea to use a hand sanitizer after handling your Uro especially if children handle it .

Some Words on this Species:

Ow some creatures ! Once you have ever thing set up , there is not much added expense . They are a great size ,not to small and not to large .They can live up to around 30 years in captivity . More of a spectator type of pet ,docile , rarely bite but do not usually enjoy being held .They do like for you to talk to them and many will let you hand feed them .Best if they are an observation kind pet .Not for beginners or young children .
How Members Rated
This Care Sheet
Rate This Care Sheet

Please keep all comments constructive to Uromastyx Mali husbandry methods and care. Any degrading, sarcastic, or disrespectful comments will be removed.
Total Members Rating: 15
1   ( 1 )
2   ( 1 )
3   ( 1 )
4   ( 3 )
5   ( 9 )
1 Terrible Care Sheet
2 Bad Care Sheet
3 OK Care Sheet
4 Good Care Sheet
5 Excellent Care Sheet


Check this if you do want your name to appear with your comments.

DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

Home   Forums   Members Area   Care Sheets   Articles   Veterinarians   Photo Gallery   Todays Posts
Photo Server   Search   Your Messages   Polls   Archives   Rules   Register   Log In   Log Out   Webmaster
Classifieds   Adoptions   Look For Reptiles or Amphibians