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Care Sheet for Bearded Dragons

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 3.50    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 07/23/2006

Main Category:


Sub Category:

Bearded Dragons

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Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years


Bearded Dragon

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:


Sexing and Characteristics:

Males tend to have a larger head with a black beard. Another way is two bulges at the base of the tail, also known as hemipeniles.
Tend to have smaller heads and smaller in length by an inch or so. Females usually lack hemipenile bulge where they will have one or no bulge what so ever.
Sexing can be don when your dragon is 5-6 months and 11-12 inches.

Mostly Active During:


Substrate and Water Needs:

NEEEEEEEEVVVVVVVEEEEEERRRRRR USE SAND OF ANY TYPE. The most common is tile,paper towel, news paper, repti-carpet,or shelf liner. Most people don’t use water bowls due to humidity. Although you can soak them once a week with daily misting to help shedding and to keep them hydrated. Use LUKEWARM water only. Not the water that feels warm to you, it could be to hot or cold for your beardie.

Lighting and UVB:

UVB is the most important thing in your dragonís life. It helps in sure bone growth. The most common type is reptisun 5.0, 8.0 or 10.0. other than UV lighting you must have a proper basking light for proper food digestion. Sometimes it can be hard to get the right wattage. It all depends on how high or low your enclosure is. You can use a 100 watt flood light or a Zoo Meds basking light 60-75 watt. Unless you your house gets below 60F then you can use an infared light at night or a UTH(under tank heater.)

Temperatures and Humidity:

Babies and adults have different temperatures. Under the basking light for a baby it should be 110-115F, and for an adult it should be 105-110F. NEVER go over 115F this could easily burn your beardie. As for humidity it should stay very low or none.

Heating and Equipment:

Pretty much for lighting all you need is a dome light, which does do the best, and and a UVB lighting. You can also use a fluorescent light depending on how cool your tank gets. To check temps use a digital thermostat or a temp gun. Try not to use the ones that that stick to the wall as they can give you incorrect temps. NEVER USE YOUR HAND TO CHECK TEMPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Caging Provided:

For a baby you can use a 20 gallon long tank until their 12 inches. Once they hit 12 put them in a 40 gallon breeder. This is the MINIMUM (36x18.) Don’t use a 55gallon tank. They are way to narrow for a beardies comfort zone. Just remember bigger is always better...FOR ADULTS, DUH.Try to keep it bare for babies and no hide spots for them. They may want to hide and bask. This is also where crickets may hide and your dragon will not get its full serving of its meal. Remember to use a screen cage to keep out unwanted pets or pests.



Description of Diet:

Bearded dragons will eat anything you put in their cage. Crickets should always be a staple part of your dragonís diet. Along with greens such as escarole,kale, turnip, collard, and dandelion greens. Vegetables should be squash with out the seeds, snape peas,carrots. Fruits can be apple(peeled),pears,mango,canaope,etc. Super worms can be a staple part of an ADULTís diet. Treats can be waxworms, butterworms, and hibiscus flower. NEVER feed MEALWORMS OR PINKIES/FUZZIES. Mealwormís shell is to hard to digest and pinkies/fuzzies are to high in fat. ALWAYS remember no larger than the space between their eyes. Always feed as much as they can eat in 15 minutes.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Calcium every day.
Vitamins 3xper week

Calcium 5xper week
Vitamins 2xper week


Bearded dragons are fairly easy to maintain. Just clean substrate once a week and clean out poop when you see it. Clean tank thoroughly as need with 3% bleach. Clean food dish at every feeding to prevent bacteria growing.

Some Words on this Species:

This a great pet for all ages,experienced herpers or first timers. You can have a happy healthy bearded dragon as long as the basic requirements are met. These animals are usually naturally tamed and docile. Just make sure a responsible person takes care of them. They also make good breeding projects or just a display pet.
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The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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