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Hogg Island Boa or ( Boa contrictor ssp. ) Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Boa Constrictors

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.20    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 03/07/2006

Main Category:

Snakes

Sub Category:

Boa Constrictors

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

MonitorKing

Years Experience:

5 to 10 Years

Species:

Hogg Island Boa or ( Boa contrictor ssp. )

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

The Hogg Island Boa is a particularly lovely boa. Though often confused with the Clouded Boa, the Hog Island Boa is a bit more docile and because of its smaller size, it is a bit less demanding in care than many boas.

The care for Hogg (also spelled Hog) Island, or Hog Isle Boas is very similar to that of the Columbian Boa and the Red-Tail Boas. Though generally docile and calm, threatened Hog Island Boas will hiss, strike, and bite. With proper treatment, your Hogg Island Boa will be healthy, and as it calms with handling, you will have a wonderful and lovely exotic pet to enjoy.

Hog Island Boas grow to about four to five feet, with females larger than the males. It is darker during the day than at night, and unhealthy animals are also darker than healthy snakes. The tails are not reddish like those of most boas; rather, Hog Island Boas have orange tails and many captive-bred snakes have orange or pink hues to their entire bodies. Hog Island Boas generally range in color from cream to dark gray.

Native to the Cayos Cachinos Islands of Santa Elena, Roatan, and Guanaja, Hog Island Boas are a very desirable pet because of their docile temperament. Some believe that wild populations may be extinct. Responsible breeding is important. The Hog Island Boa has become larger and more colorful in captive breeding over the years, and though this is not necessarily a bad thing, preservation of true specimens of the Hog Island sub-species is also important.

Sexing and Characteristics:

If you cant tell by looking for the male prongs get the snake probed.

It is thought that Hog Island Boas only breed once every two years. Drop nighttime temperatures to the low 70s for two months and then introduce a male boa into the females enclosure. Allow plenty of space for the female to hide from the male. While female Hog Island Boas will continue to feed in this cooling period, males will often refuse food and become more active. After mating, the female will often develop an abdominal swelling and the male will lose interest in her. Gravid female Hog Island Boas often become extremely aggressive and darker in color, in addition to seeking out warmer areas of the cage. After a gestation period of about four months, the Hog Island Boa will become very active the day before giving birth. She will bear 10 to 20 neonates. Often Hog Island Boas produce only litters of "slugs" after refusing to eat despite killing prey. This may be due to exposure to toxins, unsuccessful mating, or maintaining the Hog Island Boas at unsuitable temperatures prior to mating. Neonates should be fed pinkie mice once every four to five days and will shed frequently.

Mostly Active During:

N/A

Substrate and Water Needs:

Provide a large fairly deep bowl for drinking and soaking. Mist enclosure every 3-4 days.
Include many branches in the Hog Isle Boas home, as in the wild they are avid climbers.... branches, logs, & plants. Likes humid burrow (plastic cup with top hole/moist moss).

Lighting and UVB:

Use full spectrum lighting 12-14 hours per day.

Temperatures and Humidity:

Day temperature should be gradient from 78 to 95 degrees F. Maintain night temperature range between 72-80 degrees F. Use reptile heating pads under tank for 24-hour heat.

Be sure to include a basking spot of about 95 degrees by shining a hot lamp into a single area of the Hog Island Boas enclosure, but allow plenty of room for it to escape and cool itself.


This species requires a constant high level of humidity.
In captivity, the Hog Island Boa needs 60% humidity

Heating and Equipment:

See Temp. And Humidity

Caging Provided:

A 60 Gal. Tank will work the snakes whole life.

Diet:

Carnivorous

Description of Diet:

Feed appropriate sized rodents (mice, hamsters, rats). Pre-killed food is recommended for this species.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

Add Vitamins to watter, Liquid UVB and Electro-life

Maintenance:

Low maintenance animal

Clean tank 1 time a week
and/or as needed

Change water every other day.

Some Words on this Species:

Very rare snake, I think this snake required moderate experience.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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