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Blood Python Care Sheets
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Care Sheet for Blood and Short Tail Pythons

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.61    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 02/20/2006

Main Category:


Sub Category:

Blood and Short Tail Pythons

 Care Sheet Submitted By:


Years Experience:

3 to 5 Years


Blood Python

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

This care sheet will cover the Blood and Short-Tail python, including all the locales such as Sarawak, Malaysian, Borneo, and Sumatran.

Sexing and Characteristics:

Getting your snake professionally probed is the only sure way to determine gender. Let me stress professionally, you run the risk of potentially injuring your snake if you do it as an amatuer.

Mostly Active During:


Substrate and Water Needs:

Neonate Blood Pythons thrive on humidity, more so than adults. Since the snake is so thick it is difficult to have a large enough tub for the snake to soak in inside the enclosure. Because of this most owners take the snake out for a weekly bathing. You do need to provide water in the enclosure, mind you.

Bloods are messy! Therefore, the more things you have in the cage the more you’ll have to clean. A blood doesn’t need a whole lot of branches or toys, they are very lazy too. For substrate I use newspaper, it’s cheap and easily available. Many people use Cypress Mulch, it is a good substrate that helps keep in humidity. If you do choose to go with cypress mulch, get untreated/un-dyed and freeze it. When you freeze it, it kills parasites such as bacteria and mites. Also The freezing for 24 hour method works for many substrates.

Lighting and UVB:

Lighting is unecessary. As is UVB.

Temperatures and Humidity:

A blood needs a basking spot between 88-90F. The ambient are temperature should be around 78-80F. Do not let it fall below 75. A great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. If you use thermometers on the side of the cage chances are they’re innacurate. As far as humidity goes you’re going to want to maintain a 50-65% humidity. A few methods of doing this include:
1. Use Cypress Mulch
2. Spaghnum Moss
3. Daily Misting.

Heating and Equipment:

Although some people would disagree, I would not use overhead lighting. It can cause a lot of stress in bloods and since lighting isn’t needed, there are better choices. If you use ceramic heat emitters you really need to watch the humidity, they will suck it right out of the air. The only real choice in my opinion is an under tank heater. If you use flexwatt, get a thermostat, they’re pricey, but worth it.

Caging Provided:

Check out Cage Crafters, Boaphile, Animal Plastic, and any sterilite tub. Remember, you must provide proper ventilation while simultaneously retaining humidity. Do your research. You’ll need a minimum of 4Lx2Wx12"H for a Blood, but the bigger the better. The only time that is contradicted if for baby bloods. The acclimation period is the most stressful, and they can easily develop problems if you use to big of a cage. Do not use glass aquariums, they are awful for retaining humidity.



Description of Diet:

Some people start with mice but I feel that this is a bad move. Mice and rats smell completely different to snakes and since you’ll end up having to feed rats anyway, I would start with a pinky or fuzzy rat. Alot of people feed rabbits to the Blood if it is paticularily large. I would only feed rabbits very conservatively as they are very fatty. I realize that Jumbo rats are pricey, but they are really the best choice.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

None Needed.


In my experience these snakes tend to be messy, but other than that require no special maintenance. As far as handling goes, it is definantly going to require both arms. Most are head shy so put one hand about 1/4 down and the other about 3/4 down its body. These snakes are so heavy you must support their body weight, do not let them hang.

Some Words on this Species:

Amazing Species.
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The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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