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Care Sheet for Ball Pythons

Average Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 2.88    (1=lowest, 5=highest)    Last Updated: 12/21/2005

Main Category:

Snakes

Sub Category:

Ball Pythons

 Care Sheet Submitted By:

Matt C

Years Experience:

1 to 2 Years

Species:

Ball python

Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:

Ball python and Angolan python (There is a significant difference, PRICE).

Sexing and Characteristics:

Females- have longer tails and smaller spurs. They also seem to be more bulky then males.

Males-Smaller tails,bigger spurs. Less bulky then a female

Mostly Active During:

Night

Substrate and Water Needs:

I use repti bark and it works great to keep the humidity in the cage. You cold always use news paper, paper towels, and napkins. STAY AWAY FROM CEDAR PRODUCTS SINCE IT IS BAD FOR REPTILES. Make sure the water bowl is large enough for the snake to soak his or her whole body in. Donít get a huge water bowl for a neonate and vice versa.

Lighting and UVB:

60-80 Watís is good. You could go larger depending on the size of your cage, But never go above 100 Watís. Make sure you have something that separates the snake from the light so no burns will happen. I also use heat pads that I place UNDER the cage not in the cage. Works great for cold nights. UVB lights are not needed.

Temperatures and Humidity:

80+ in the warm side and 60 in the colder area. Humidity should be 40-60. Get two good thermometers(one for the warm side and one for the cold side) and a good humidity gage.

Heating and Equipment:

Heat lamps and/or heat pads. No heat rocks;they can burn your animal.

Caging Provided:

Since they are semi tropical, The need higher humidity. Ball pythons also enjoy the occasional climb and are much more active at night then they are in the day. You should also have Two or more hide boxes(one on the warm side and one on the warm side) so the snake does not have to choose between heat and security. The cage could be very elaborate or very simple. remember, the more stuff in the cage the more to clean.

Diet:

N/A

Description of Diet:

Wild caught are notoriously known for there bad feeding habits which is very true. As neonates, small mice are good and when they get bigger, small to medium rates are needed. Cb(captive bred) are usually much easier to feed but can still be difficult.

Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:

No supplements are needed

Maintenance:

They are very easy to maintain. Spot clean once a week and Chang the water every 3 days. Difficult sheds are common in this species so make sure the temperature and humidity are right. The most common health issue in this species and in most other snakes is a spectacle( retained eye cap). This is caused by a difficult shed and can easily be removed. You would go about doing this by gently soaking the snake in warm water for about 10-15 minutes. This will cause spectacle and other pieces of unshed skin to become more pliable. After soaking get a piece of scotch tap and gentle place it over the spectacle and remove slowly and it should come off. For more chronic cases( multiple layers of the spectacle which is the result of many difficult sheds) contact a vet. before you dot this MAKE sure there is actually a spectacle.

Some Words on this Species:

This is a great snake to have. they all have there personalityís and are a joy to interact and seem to like it too. I would recommend a Bp ( Ball Python) to some one who has kept a king,corn,or milk snake in the past.
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DISCLAIMER:
The information contain in these care sheets represents only the opinions and husbandry care of members and therefore is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate or reflects the advice or opinions of RepticZone.com. It is always advised to seek additional information or the advice of a qualified veterinarian or qualified reptile dealer. It is also advisable for you to a good amount of research before implementing any of the ideas and care described in these care sheets. We also recommend you ask many questions in their related forums before acting on any information.

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