Care Sheet for IguanasAverage Rating Given To This Care Sheet Is 4.70 (1=lowest, 5=highest) Last Updated: 01/30/2006 |
Main Category: | Lizards |
Sub Category: | Iguanas |
Care Sheet Submitted By: | Spartan34 |
Years Experience: | 3 to 5 Years |
Species: | Green Iguana |
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: | N/A |
Sexing and Characteristics: | The males tend to have larger dewlaps and bulges or swelling at their tail base for their hemipenes. Also males develop bulges on their subtympatic scale (the giant scale near the neck). Enlarged femoral pores are found near the vent which the use to rub and mark their territory. Females are smaller in size and their heads are smaller compared to their bodies. They have small femoral pores near their vent. |
Mostly Active During: | Day |
Substrate and Water Needs: | The worse substrate which people tend to buy in their enclosure for a natural look would be small pieces of wood chips, but they may ingest it and cause impaction which can result in some serious damage to your iguana. But iguanas are usually too large to be cages so many are left to free roam so substrate is not really necessary. Many igs persistently rub their noses into their cage meshing so its letting you know that it wants OUT! If you plan on keeping igs in a cage, the best substrate and cheapest substrate is newspaper. It may not make your enclosure attractive but it gets the job done. Water is essential for humidity and for hydration so have a clean fresh bowl of water everyday. They like to defecate in a source of water so it may be necessary to change the water in the bowl more than once a day (depending on how many igs) |
Lighting and UVB: | Lighting and UVB is essential!!!!!! Anyways, along with heat lamps, full spectrum lighting is needed. Iguanas need UVA and UVB for psychological and physical benefits. UVA helps the igs know that it is day and make it active, UVB is important for the metabolism of calcium. without UVB, your igs may suffer from metabolic bone disease. Calcium supplements help add calcium to aid in calcium synthesis, but you can not entirely depend on it to keep your igs healthy,UVB is IMPORTANT!!!! A full spectrum bulb (26 watts) that contains ~30% UVA and 10% UVB, reptisun 10.0 is recommended. The more the better, more UVB lamps equals more UVB radiation equals happier and healthier iguana(s). 12 hours of full spectrum lighting is a good cycle for your igs. |
Temperatures and Humidity: | Igs need heat because they are ectothermic or cold-blooded and they need heat for energy to carry out their activities. A thermogradient is needed in your enclosure so make sure they have a basking site with a nice and a cool place it can retreat to so that it can thermoregulate and cool down. 30-35 degrees celsius or 85-95 degrees fahrenheit are good temperatures for basking. the cool end should be around 25 celsius or 75 fahrenheit. I keep mine at 110 F but they have lots of places to retreat to when they’re warm. Temperature is essential to properly digest its food, so keeping your ig warm will make it really healthy and it will not have troubles defecating and what not. Humidity is important for hygiene and for growth. Humidity is needed to help the igs shed their skin that symbolizes growth. Shedding is a good sign and proper humidity allows good growth rates. Humidity should be moderate to high, so 50-70% humid are optimum levels of humidity for your igs. |
Heating and Equipment: | Heating is essential!!!!!! I recommend a 100-150 watt heat lamp for day and a 75 watt night lamp for night (depending how cold its enclosure can get). The 100-150 watt heat lamps only add an extra $10 max to the electricity bill so don’t worry about the costs of electricity from discouraging you from getting 100-150 watt lamps.
To help withstand the heat buy lamps that are able to withstand the heat emitted from these lamps found in the reptile department of your local pet store. NEVER USE HEAT ROCKS!!! I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH how important it is to not use heat rocks. Heat rocks will burn through the skin of your igs because they lack large amounts of nerves on their belly. Unless you put lots of layers or covering over the heat rock, i strongly advise you not even look or consider using a heat rock, for all reptiles. |
Caging Provided: | Igs need lots of space, so many ig owners tend to build them a gigantic cage (6 feet long, 5 feet high, and 3 feet deep) or allow them to free roam. My iguanas free roam in my room and i use their custom cage as their basking site but i leave their door open to allow them to free roam. Before you allow your igs to free roam, you have to make sure there are no plants around, and that there is nothing valuable around because the igs will explore and will look into every nook and cranny. A lot of people worry that their ig will get lost in your room so try to cover any holes that may be found in the room that your igs will be housed in. Also, igs will tend to poo on your bed so it is wise to paper train your igs before you allow them to free roam. If you cannot find your ig in your room, look below first so that you dont step on them, then try looking for places high above because iguanas are arboreal, so they like to be in high places, just like in the wild. The juvenile igs tend to hide under things so watch out for that but for the adult iguanas, it kinda hard not to spot a 4 foot long lizard!!!! |
Diet: | Herbivorous |
Description of Diet: | Iguanas are strictly herbivorous. Meaning they cannot digest animal protein from meat such as crickets as well as omnivores or carnivores. Their long digestive tract is specialized for the vegetative matter that they eat and not the high protein from crickets, mealworms, pinkies, mice, etc. Its not a bad thing to give them a source of protein once in a while, but never feed them animal protein more than twice a year. Igs fed dog food or cat food or any other commercial diet, tend to die from liver failure because it was not able to properly digest the protein found in their food. Iguanas tend to eat anything but their main diet should be 70% greens, 20% vegetable and 10% fruit. Staple (fed everyday) greens are dandelion greens, collard greens, arugula and/or mustard greens. All three are good for everyday diet. Staple vegetables are acorn or butternut squash, green beans, snap peas are to be fed almost everyday. You dont have to feed all of the listed at one time, the staple greens are necessary but the staple vegetables are optional but they are recommended to be added. The same fruit should not be added but a different fruit everyday. Good fruits to add are mango, papaya, berries and pear. All these greens, veggies and fruit must be shred or torn into pieces suitable for your iguanas to properly swallow. Igs don’t chew. Their teeth are made for tearing not for chewing, so feed reasonable sizes to your igs and not a giant chunk that it may choke on. |
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: | After preparing the ig salad, calcium supplements should be added for proper bone growth and density. As i said before, calcium supplements are not the only thing needed for calcium metabolism, UVB is also needed. The most effective and popular is Rep-cal and i strongly recommend powdering the salad before serving. The proper diet and supplements are important ingredients for a long living and healthy ig |
Maintenance: | Igs will defecate at least once a day. If your igs are potty trained, maintenance will be much easier. Everyday they must be fed and their water must be changed. They must have heat and lights for energy and digestion. Lights can easily be controlled by timers so that you don’t even have to worry about the lights. However, igs are not recommended for novice herp enthusiasts. Igs require lots of love and care to be healthy and happy. However alot of requirements must be met everyday so maintenance on a ig is rather high. |
Some Words on this Species: | Iguanas make wonderful pets, but only for an experienced herp owner. Igs may cost 30$ or less at a pet store but along with igs come a lot of hidden costs. When you first get an ig, you may spend around 500-600$ for all its accessories. Research igs before you invest in one, and to all ig owners out there, inform everyone that igs are not hardy pets. I bet you that many igs will be saved from terrible conditions if there were many people who advise against the ownership of an iguana. Iguanas are cool but delicate creatures. I hope this care sheet has helped and saved the lives of many igs. When in doubt ask questions in the forums and/or pm us |
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